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William

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About William

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    3" Body Lift (Peformance Accessories) 3" Suspension Lift (UCA + Rear Coils) Ball Joint Spacers RS5000 Steering Stabilizer (Rancho) Oil Filter Relocation Kit Open Air Intake Filter (Weapen-R) Calmini Torsion Bars M/T 15x10 Classic Lock II Wheels BfGoodrich 33x12.5R15 Tires
  • Place of Residence
    Ontario
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Toronto
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. William,  I have a 87' pathfinder w/ 3.0VGI.  engine is shot!  can i replace it with a more modern lesser miles 3.3 Nissan motor?  will it hook up to my tranny & transfir case?  Pottsy

  2. That makes sense B. I might have faulty injector "O Rings" (or even Injector). I am slowly ruling out the theories of - Faulty STARTER RELAY - Faulty ECU and "No" I do not have the habit of adding Fuel ADDITIVES to the tank and almost always fill it with regular 91 OCTANE at the station. Unfortunately, IIRC, my pathy's previous owner sold me that car many years ago with a VG30E engine that had upgraded injectors from a VG33E. I don't know why this was done but this is what I was told. Again IIRC! In that case, Should I be buying replacement VG33E Injector O-rings or VG30E O-rings? Are they different? Do you know the OEM part number for these O-rings to look for them online? William
  3. I mean what controls the in-flow of Fuel into the Engine? It must be the Injectors. Right? If so, and my Injectors (or at least one of them) are/is somehow stuck on OPEN, could this lead to the symptoms I am having. A friend suggested a faulty ECU believing the ECU is not OPENING and CLOSING the injectors properly which is causing the engine to flood with Fuel and eventually SHUTTING DOWN while driving or refuse to START/CRANK in the first place. I checked the ECU by running the DIAGNOSTIC switch on its back. It seems to be functional. Gave me no new errors (except the old "34" which is related to the KNOCK SENSOR. I've always had this error). William
  4. Anyone knows the OEM Part Number for the STARTER RELAY to order it online please? If it's not the STARTER RELAY, what could be causing the engine to leak Fuel from the Air Filter side when parked downhill? William
  5. Ok agreed. But why was the engine leaking Fuel when parked downhill? And why was the engine flooding with fuel? These don't seem to be "starter-relay" issues? I could be wrong. Please explain
  6. Hi guys, BACKGROUND My car has been parked for few months as I don't use it much and I travel a lot. When I tried to start the car, it didn't. After ruling-out the battery, I first figured the SPARK PLUGS are dead so I replaced them with brand new ones from NJK (Iridium) which did not help either. I next discovered that the tank was bone-dry so I manually filled it from a can and it did start and I used it for few days in a row. THE PROBLEM AT HAND NOW: The week after, I parked the car downhill near my home. It was a bit of a steep downhill but I didn't think much about it at the time. a) The next morning, I tried turning the car ON but it didn't even CRANK. I tried many times, no CRANK what so ever . I checked the battery and used cables to jump-start it from my daily-driver but it was not the battery as well. I started smelling FUEL so I checked underneath the car, and to my complete surprise, the car was slowly by steadily dripping FUEL from near the airflow filter onto the asphalt (see the arrow): c) After many failed attempts to start the car or even CRANK it somehow, I figured the engine must be flooded with Fuel which is preventing the spark plugs from igniting somehow. So I removed the fuel intake pipe feeding the engine, bent-it well and zip-tied it. I next, removed spark plugs #2 and #4 (I believe. They were the nearest to my right-side and the easiest to remove) and left those spark plug engine opening OPEN!! d) Immediately, upon doing that, the pathy CRANKED and fuel started flying from the two open spark plugs holes. I CRANKED it few times until I felt that the quantity of fuel flying out of the holes was getting less and less each time. e) I then put back the SPARK PLUGS back into the engine and connected the wires. I started the engine (WITHOUT re-connecting the Fuel intake pipe to the engine), and the engine ran just fine for like 5 minutes until it ran out of fuel. During that time, I managed to pull the car out of that steep parking spot into a more level parking position. The problem now is if I connect the intake fuel pipe into the engine, the car cranks, starts, and runs just fine for like few minutes before the engine SHUTS DOWN and floods with fuel and will not CRANK again without repeating the same process above over-and-over again: Cutting the fuel intake Removing a spark plug Crank it a few times to relief the engine from the excess fuel inside of it re-install the spark plug and wire start the car I have no clue as to why this is happening and how to solve it neatly without damaging the engine any further as I am pretty sure the steps I followed above are not the healthiest or safest but I was stuck and had to improvise Please let me know what you guys think. I am clueless William
  7. Also will it matter if the one on eBay was not made specifically for the WD21 with VG30E engines?
  8. Vs the one sold on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221430363111?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  9. Guys. Been looking for a Snorkle to add to my Pathy. I like the one made by SAFARI SNORKLE (SS700HF) for our WD21. However, it's too darn expensive. Been looking on eBay for alternatives and found few sold in the UK willing to ship across the pond for nearly half the price of the SAFARI (after S&H). Will there be a major differences in the material, finish and build qualities between the two? They claim to be made of LLDPE (PolyEthylene) and not Fiber Glass. William
  10. Hi Guys, I need to change my "Turn Signal Headlight Cruise Control Switch" and I am puzzled between 2 ebay offerings: - Genuine OEM Nissam Part that is USED from a salvaged/wreck WD21 that is rated as GOOD USED WORKING but most likely with no guarantee/warranty. versus: - An AFTER MARKET part that is BRAND NEW (most likely from China or Korea) that comes with a limited 2-years warranty. Both at the same price. What do guys think? Help me decide William
  11. It looks really nice [emoji106]. That front tire seems to be "rubbing" on you fender when fully turn the steering wheel.
  12. I got 404 ERROR when I followed your link above. Can you state the name of the website to google-it please? William
  13. Thank you so much as always guys (esp. MY1PATH) for the support. So in conclusion. It seems like a safe purchase to serve as a backup ECU in case my OEM ECU got fried or needed replacement for any reason. Right? William
  14. Interesting! So in case you did not find the rest of this chart, do you think it is safe to swap: MECM-V981 (1) 1X17 for MECM-V981 (1) 1Y29 It comes from a 93 WD21 A/T 4x2. Whereas, mine is a 4x4, does it make a difference? William

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