snowboard419

After many weeks of searching I finally found a reasonably priced set of pistons for the Infinity Q45 to do a VG34 build. They also have a huge selection of rebuild parts for almost anything else. Including the VG30 and VG33 Mfg: DNJ Engine Components Part # P650 Piston Set 237.62(from perfectengine.com) DNJ Catalog http://www.dnjecat.com/ DNJ Homepage http://www.enginecomponents.com/ Parts are available through many online retailers as well as local distributors you can search from DNJ's home page for a distributor near you.

still using them

Yea it was the VG30DE pistons up for offer.

sorry compression ratio on vg30de is higher than vg30, not lower my bad.

I just ordered a set of VG30DE pistons and rods, you can have one of the pistons if you want, all i need is the rods. but the hole for the pin is going to be the size of the vh45. the bore is the same but the compression ratio is lower. but if it would help you out its yours. just cover shipping.

Yea I looked into factory pistons and rings and was shocked at the prices. In my research I found a guy who said you dont actually need to cut the valve reliefs he did it without and had no problems, cant seem to re find the thread for the life of me, but that may get into some pretty close tolerances. Also wondering if doing an M30 ECU swap to be able to run Nistune easily would be worth my money or not, would be fun either way. Excited to see how this works out for you.

I am looking into doing nearly the exact same build you are doing. It may be a slow process due to funding on my part but would like to have the long block built over the winter. If you have run into any connections for VG30DETT rods and or VH45 pistons let me know it would be a big help. But a coworker of mine has a boring bar so we can do the cylinders ourselves. Now I just need a friend with a mill to cut the valve reliefs, and a camshaft grinding setup and I will be in business.

I routed the original high side output line around the brake booster, and was originally going to solder the copper fitting to the aluminum pipe but that did not work out at all so I used a small piece of rubber hose to make a coupling. In the center of this orange tube is where I plan on installing the Inline oil separator. Here the air comes in through the black pipe and runs through the brass check valve and into the pressure switch/manifold. both of which I pulled out of a small 120v air compressor. I dont have it piped into my storage tank or have a gauge installed yet but it works, and will even run a 1/2" impact gun intermittently. And I have a plan for an electric driven high idle setup.

Yes factory pump is what I am running and yes the air oil separator will keep the oil out of my system and I could probably just dump the oil from the filter right back in to the oiler.

So I got a few things mocked up and at about 2500 rpm my ac compressor will produce around 130-140 psi at a decent volume. I was able to fill my 26 gal air compressor tank to 60 psi in just a few minutes. The only things I need now are an inline oiler and separator to get the rest plumbed up. I will also need to rig up a throttle switch of some sort because at idle I only get about 30 psi, I would like an electronic set up but a bike shift/cable setup may be the most affordable way to go. I will get some pics up in the next few days.

That thing is sweet, but my ac has not worked since I got the truck and I can do onboard air for much less that the refrigerant cost alone so OBA here we go, hope to have it completed by this weekend.

Planning on some on board air, I have been kicking around some ideas and have landed on trying to use the air conditioning pump but would like to hear from someone that has actually done it. The pump in my ride is a rotary vane pump and I cant find any specific info on using this type of compressor pump for air. I know that piston pumps work great but not sure about this one?

When you fix your exhaust to get rid of the driver foot burn and actually end up missing it when your feet get cold on a long drive in the winter.

Hop on youtube and search for ChuckE2009 his channel is all about welding and fabrication, and he has a 4 part bumper build for a Chevy Silverado on there might give you some good ideas on where to start.

When it comes time to tackle the exhaust studs take a fluxcore mig and weld a washer to the broken stud and then a nut to the washer and they will come out with almost no effort I got mine out that way, had 4 or 5 broken off and every one backed right out.

When going over a bump your keys fall out of the ignition, and when doing something possibly stupid you hold on to your keys in case you have to shut it off quick and may not have time to find them on the floorboard.

I did look into the xterra swap but could not find one for a reasonable price except at a pull and pay and I would have overhauled it anyways hate to take a risk on a junk yard trans. I did not go with amsoil as I could not afford it at this time but I am going to on the next service il let you know if I have any adverse reaction. before my trans took a crap some shifts were hard, and some were mushy but after the overhaul and shift kit it is all very consistent. And while it was apart I noticed that the reverse clutch pack is a real weak point in this transmission, only 2 friction disks.

I would look at the linkage for the transfer case, sounds like it is definitely related to the t-case some how. also being that after you flip in and out of 4x4 hi low etc it fixes your issue for a bit, does not sound like clutch or trans to me.

It was not too difficult more time consuming than anything. And I took an automatic rebuild class a few years ago and that really helped take a lot of the mystery out of it.

So after 4 months or so I finally have it rebuilt and installed and I must have done something right because it actually works. The shift kit was definitely a good idea, the shifts are more solid and feel consistent through the gears.

I had an old fwd honda accord that had split boots for at least 2 years before the cv's got replaced, and I bet they still had a couple thousand miles left in them. As long as you dont mind people looking at you funny when they hear you coming around a corner.

I got the valve body almost completed today, I just need to torque all of the bolts. I broke a drill bit off in the upper valve body while drilling one of the holes for the shift kit but it was a minor set back. All of the valves were in good shape and every thing went fairly smooth. The instructions that come with the shift kit are very clear and easy to follow and the diagrams for bolt holes, tube brackets, oil passageways etc. was much better than that provided in the FSM. Here is some photos of the chaos. It begins Upper valve body completely disassembled ready to drill the required hole for the shift kit, clean lube and reassemble. Ready to locate and enlarge some holes in the separator plate for the kit.

Spoke with the witch doctor today, and they actually ship a voodoo doll with the shift kit which showed up today. I will keep you guys updated as I make progress. hoping to have the transmission rebuilt and ready to install over the weekend. still need to order the rear main seal, transfer case in and out seals, spin on filter kit, oil filter relocation kit, and some Amsoil ATF.

Well most of my parts are here, just waiting on my shift kit. I have never seen so many o-rings, gaskets and seals in one place. Here goes the rebuild.