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snowboard419

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Everything posted by snowboard419

  1. The noise your probably hearing is an exhaust leak from broken exhaust studs the VG30 in your pathfinder is extremely prone to this due to small weak studs and many many many members here have been through this ordeal. Myself included. Search around and you can find alot of write ups on how to repair this, or others that have had it done at a shop. The manifold/s could be cracked but more likely broken studs. And when you take it apart more will break, so be prepared. Here is how I tackled it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35321-photos-of-my-front-end-overhaull/
  2. The guy I got it from said he was trying to get it unstuck off a rock while wheeling and it let loose and sounded like @!*% when it happened. They towed it down the hill, tried to start it and all they got was some bad noises until it locked up, all I get is a solid CLUNK when I hit the starter. Im thinking low oil + extreme slope+boost+dip@!*% = broken rod or something of the like.
  3. Just had a bunch of parts show up today. New Lifters, Crank and Rod bearings and gasket set. Water pump and timing kit are in the mail. I need to check out the oil pump to see if it can be rebuilt or needs replaced. Now just need to get the block back from the machine shop and I can start going together with the bottom end. I still need to get some speedi sleeve's for the crank rear main and the camshafts, both cranks i have and both sets of cams all have HUGE grooves worn in the seal surfaces.
  4. So as some of you may know I recently purchased a new to me 95 Pathfinder that another member on this forum '2milehi' had installed a turbocharger on. The guy I purchased it from did not do the build but he did manage to blow the motor up. So here I go building an engine to get her back on the road. I was just getting ready to rebuild an engine for my 91 but that is going to take a back burner now. It is going to be a budget build no forged pistons or anything but as long as I don't screw up the tuning and don't get greedy with the boost it should be just fine. And to be clear I cannot take any credit whatsoever for the turbo build, that was all 2milehi. And thanks to his excellent build thread I wont be in the dark as to what he did. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29646-adding-a-turbointercooler-to-my-95-pathfinder/ The block and pistons are at the machine shop getting cleaned bored and honed. Ill fit my rings and adjust end gap when I get it back. I just got the crank back, in good shape except for the harmonic keyway i need to do a small repair. I pulled the best parts out of the 2 engines I have torn down currently residing in my garadge. crank, cams, heads, rods, etc. I am doing the headwork myself, they are getting freshly cut valve faces, a fresh 3 angle valve job. I am going to try and install 10mm exhaust studs. And I may do some very minor port work/unshroud the valves, also smooth out any surfaces that could create a hot spot in the combustion chamber. Here is the valve work.
  5. I am super curious to see where it let go. From what the guy described I would most likely bet he over revved the engine trying to get unstuck and broke a rod. But time will tell. I am currently ordering parts and have a few things going to the machine shop, crank, block, heads. so I can get an engine built to bolt all of this turbo setup too. Hopefully something that will live for a while.
  6. Yea I jumped on it quick, I definitely was not in the market for another project vehicle, and im sure glad my wife dident mind me leaving on zero notice for 9 hours to go buy something we dont need.
  7. The red does look good. They guy I got it from definitely did not build it, he did not know jack squat about it other than it ran like a top until he blew it up. I dont know if he bought it straight from the guy who built it or not. The guy who built it '2milehi' has not posted here or anywhere else I can find since about 2012.
  8. At least its back in good hands. I think I will do what I can to bring her back to glory.
  9. Haha I just found the build thread here on NPORA. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29646-adding-a-turbointercooler-to-my-95-pathfinder/?hl=turbo
  10. So looks like whomever did the turbo install may have done it right. I have a megasquirt 2.2 ecu board. The ignition coil I dont recognize but its plugged into a module with a motorcraft logo. Has a magnetic pickup sensor and ring welded to the harmonic balancer. A tube with boost pressure routed to the ecu. If anyone recognizes the build I would really like to get in touch with them. Im willing to bet whoever built this rig is on or was on one of the forums at some point. Let me know if you have any leads.
  11. @!*% yea I got it, could not pass it up. Saw the add last night drove 150 miles to see it first thing this morning talked him down to 500 bucks and his aaa towed it 100 miles so i just have to make a quick run up the pass to drag it home tomorrow.
  12. So my current ride has been out of commission for a while now, while shopping craigslist for engine parts to get the old girl going again I stumbled across a craigslist add for a 95 pathfinder for $750 all he said was it needed a new block. Here are the pics in the post. Look close at pic #3, what do you see?
  13. The air is coming out the oil fill cap not the tail pipe or intake.
  14. I was able to do a poor mans leakdown test by removing the valve stem on the compression tester and hooking it up to my air compressor and there is a significant amount of air going by the rings, that was my first hope was valve train issues but it is not looking like that is going to be that simple.
  15. Hey, sorry i have not made an update in a while but here is where we sit. I had re tested all the injectors at the actual injector and got very similar readings with 2 different meters and earlier i said no reading when i should have said out of limit reading they were in the mega ohm range. so i got some injectors online and swapped them out, new vac lines, valve cover gaskets, upper intake, etc. put it all together and it ran a lot better but still has a dead miss at idle worse when cold. so did a compression test finally( should have been the first or second thing i did ) and the readings are as follows #1-130 #2-130 #3-130 #4-130 #5-130 #6-10 all of the good cylinders were within 1-3 psi of each other. But I tell you what I am a damn pro at getting to that number 6 plug now. Time to find a vg33.
  16. So I think I have it figured out. I burrowed a vantage pro lab scope from the snap-on guy and started poking around. I did a voltage signature test on the injectors and had some readings that were all over the charts. cyl # 2 looked good but everything else was off. so i then ohmed out all the injectors one by one and got the following. #1 no reading #2 12.75ohms #3 no reading #4 10 ohms #5 75 ohms #6 41 ohms. so I am kind of amazed this thing even runs. Anyone have a set of injectors for sale??
  17. checked spark at a couple of random plugs, tested fine. I have sprayed the entire manifold looking for vacuum leaks with no avail. ECU shows no codes but it does read rich on the mixture test. No signs of any water near the ecu or connector but i have not actually opened it up yet. I have yet to check timing, i had inspected the belt not very long ago. but those are my next steps before I source an ecu. I have an M30 ecu in my garage waiting to help a vg34 nistune build but i don't want to be changing any wiring until i have this thing running well so i know if i screw anything up during the swap.
  18. It is reading ok based on the ecu self diag. I also unpluged it in an attempt to get the engine to run in open loop, but still no change.
  19. So my truck has been running very poor lately. Running very rich, missing and stumbling from idle to high speed hot and cold. I replaced spark plugs and read the new plugs after about 50 miles and they were quite sooty. Initailly i thought maf, coolant temp, tps. but all have tested perfectly as per fsm. fuel pressure is correct. and i just replaced the maf with a junkyard unit but no change in running at all. I have ohmed out the wiring harness from all sensors to ecu and everything is coming back spot on. I am starting to run out of ideas. Your thoughts?
  20. I have had a few e-mails with mr510 a month or two ago trying to get an adapter, he said he had some product but never responded with a way to pay, sounded like he may of had some other things on his plate.
  21. Looking for some people to go wheeling with. Let me know if your nearby we can meet up sometime
  22. You might want to get your battery load tested to make sure it is good if you were able to run it dead in such a short amount of time. Might save you from getting stranded. I just did a job on a diesel 350 with dual batteries had the ignition on for less than 30 min and the truck would not start.
  23. If your going with a larger stud you may just be able to tap new threads into the current hole if it is not too buggered. If you do end up needing to use a helicoil grab some scrap aluminum and install a couple until you get the hang of it they can be a bit tricky but all in all not to bad. And the helicoils come in different lengths so you can just get one of the proper depth for the hole.
  24. Operator Malfunction is what keeps me employed, and we are busy as F--- right now.
  25. +1 for the super tight philips head screws. Any small screw allen, torx, flat and philips that you cant get a good bite on this thing is the ticket. I use the one at our shop at least once a week. Ours is snap on and the bits that came with it hold up really well. And when you do break them they swing by and swap em out.
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