snowboard419

The main clearances ended up at approx .003-.0035ish , just using plastiguage so not super precise, a little wider than I would like its on the far side of spec. I opened up the two oil pumps I had laying around and promptly threw them in the scrap pile and ordered a new one, just stock pump but I will install an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things.

In the service manual ec-12 for the 95 it describes the tps and gives a pinout of the sensor so you can test, check for supply voltage, and signal voltage, I usually back probe the connector with a paper clip. Any more back story on the issue or what may have caused it, daily driver vehicle, sitting a long time, recent wheeling/mudding trip any recent work performed on the vehicle. The more info the better we can help. also looks like cam signal sensor can put it into a limp mode

^^ +100 or bad connections on battery/starter/ground.

The Long Block is complete, except for the oil pan which I will pull off of the 95 because it has the return oil fitting for the turbo.

Update: Cylinder heads are installed on the block and torqued to spec. Finally got a chance to use the angle setting on the torque wrench I purchased a few years ago. Next is cams/rockers/lifters. And soon pulling the engine out of the 95. I have already removed most of the accessories, alternator, ps pump, fan, radiator, turbo, etc. Im down to the timing components and balancer pulley all of which I need to pull for the new motor.

Going with new lifters, I started trying to overhaul a few and it was a PITA so I ordered new ones, less than 10 bucks each. Im going to mic them before I install because one of the guys here had some new ones seize up because they were a touch large.

Cleaning up some of the cylinder head parts, letting them soak in solvent brushing scrubbing occasionally not really getting the clean I wanted. So I moved to a cheap Horrible Freight blaster gun, loaded with baking soda and it did wonders. Starting on the left is a lifter guide straight from the motor, middle is one that has been soaking in solvent for over a day and scrubbed, on the right is one that was soda blasted for about 60 seconds.

Here is a repair of a demolition saw that came through our shop recently, customer complained that it was hard to start and did not run well. Here is what we found. I believe this may have led to his low compression. Dirt ingestion of concrete dust. Almost a 1/4 '' of ring end gap, I dont even know how it ran long enough to wear that bad. This is what it should look like.

When you pull the relay and it runs does it run well or still rough? If it runs well I would think leaking injector/s if still rough I would look at ignition timing. First things I would check would be good spark, timing, compression, We know your getting fuel just perhaps too much. And definitely check those 3 before you purchase any parts because not doing so has bit me in the ass big time a few times.

The rotating assembly is complete and torqued to spec. On to the heads.

The crank is installed in the block, I went ahead and used it even though the clearance was a bit on the loose side. Pistons rods and rings are all put together, so far I have 3 out of six pistons installed in the block and hope to get the rest installed later tonight. The rod clearance plastiguaged at .002ish so im happy with that. Today on my lunch break I did a little bit of head work. Some very minor porting, opened up the spark plug drain channels, and also installed 10mm exhaust studs The 10mm Looks a little better than stock

Well the shop refused to do any further inspection on the engine, simply pull the other valve cover and the oil pan to look for debris. They installed a reman? head and put it back together and handed it back to her. The engine sounds ok and runs good but we are working on racking up some miles quick so we can send off an oil analysis and cut the filter open to see if anything is going on. If we find anything at all they will have a lawsuit on their hands. They may have one anyways. Ill make an update when we get the oil back from the lab but we need a few miles firsts.

Well I got part #'s from nissan but no parts they are discontinued, so ill search around a bit. Im going to measure my other crank tomorrow and see if its any better but most likely will just go ahead and run it, not sure yet.

So nissan does have different grade bearings available so I am going to take some measurements tomorrow and see if one will work for me.

Last night I searched the internet high and low for a .001 oversize bearing for the vg30e. Today I called my machine shop, and two other auto parts stores and I cant find them anywhere, they exist for other engines but not ours. If someone knows where to source please let me know. I am going to call nissan tomorrow and see if they still offer different bearings if not I think I will install an oil pressure guage and run it with an oil closer to 15w40 or 15w50

He finished the build in 2011 sometime, sold it in 2015 and according to the title the guy he sold it to had about 10k on it. So not really sure about the mileage of the setup. but at least 10-15k .

The turbo that is in the pathfinder right now I am almost certain is the ebay unit, no real branding I can see but I have not done any teardown on that one yet. Im going to pull it soon to inspect it and also see whats in the oil/filter to see what may have gone through it and then decide to use it or upgrade. I think I am going to source some undersize bearings just for the peace of mind, Ill check the clearance on the connecting rods before I order so I can get it all at once.

Alright I got a little more work done on the lower end the last couple of days, I installed the new pistons on the old rods. I fitted the rings to there respective bore, I did have to file the end gap open a touch to get the clearance I was looking for, top ring--.017 second ring .019. also checked the crankshaft main bearing clearance with plasitguage and have run into a small issue. Main clearance is .0011-.0022 with a service limit of .0035. I measured .003?ish. I found a spec sheet that lists different bearing thicknesses from nissan, I dont know if they are even available or not. I also have another crank that may or may not be in better shape. What do you guys think. Run it or find better crank, bearings etc.Any pros/con's. About the only thing that would worry me is maintaining proper oil pressure.

I just picked up the block from the machine shop today and got it mounted to the stand. Ready to put the short block together

We also have a mutual friend who is a lawyer, and his very official letter will most likely be in a package of papers the shop owner is served.

I have not herd of that being an issue but that being said my harmonic ballancer pulley keyway is a little buggered on my crank I am going to have to do something about.

They have some mixed reviews on line and Im starting to side with a few of the bad ones. She has only had minor service work done here, a few oil changes, brakes perhaps, but has been using them for a while. So you have to pull the engine out to get the heads off, and they wont take the time to pull the oil pan and a few bearing caps. I hope they go to start it after all this and it @!*%s its guts all over their shop floor.

So a good friend of mine took her 2010 subaru outback to a local shop to have the oil changed about 2-3 weeks ago, about 300 miles later it fell out while on the highway in the fast lane, she got to a safe place to stop as quick as possible but it was too late. She had it towed to the shop that did the work and called them as soon as they opened the next day. The business owner said he could not see how it could last that long but that they would take care of her. The shop is not taking care of her they are trying to repair as cheap and quick as possible to get her down the road long enough so its not their problem, here is where it gets good. They got a drain plug, installed it and filled it up, said it was making some noise, probably a lifter, they would look into it and call her later. Next day they said its still making noise and it has a problem with the head but they would take care of it, no other details, Here is where I got involved, I asked the owner to call me as soon as they found out what happened and to send me pics of the damage, later that day he sent me a picture of the head and a pic of the cylinders both from ****** angles that did not show any damage at all, also he did not call me or my friend. So I went down to the shop to see for myself (he did not seem to pleased at this) Here is what I found. The RH side camshaft seized so hard it broke in 2 right in the middle causing the valves to hit the pistons. So all he is going to do is replace the cylinder head and camshaft. I told him that I was extremely concerned about the rest of the engine, my friend requested that he inspect the other bearing surfaces, cam, main and rod bearings and cylinder bores, also that much torque on the timing belt may have caused valve damage on the other side not to mention the belt it self. HE FLAT OUT REFUSED TO GO ANY FURTHER and seemed offended that it was requested. My friend also requested the old parts back and he said he could get some but not the head because it had a core charge.So I called the place where he said he purchased the parts from and they informed me there is no core charge. So this is going to end ugly and probably in court. Any thoughts?? and sorry for the long post

The crank girdle seems like a pretty stout part, have you seen them break before? Perhaps we should take bets on where the failure is and the winner can have the broken piece as a trophy.

Either remove belts or get your hands on a mechanics stethoscope they run less than 20 bucks and you can pinpoint noises like that in no time just place the probe on the pulley bolt or the accessory and see which one is making noise, pull the belt to confirm and your set. Can save alot of time.