snowboard419

I used 75w90 I believe. I know it was already mentioned in this therad but check out the TSB on needing to overfill the trans. Capacity is in one of the stickies here. Had to jack up one side of the truck to get enough in mine. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

Straight gl4 can be hard to find locally and the guy at the parts counter probably won't be much help. But online you can find it easy. I use amsoil syncromesh it's available in multiple viscosities and is gl4 spec. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

If you need an injector let me know I have some spares in my garage I'd let you have Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

If a hard pull cleans it up could be looking at a leaking injector, may only show up at low rpm/ idle. I just had one do a similar thing to me. I figured it out by unplugging the injectors one at a time. The culprit showed up because when I unplugged number 3 injector the engine ran better and near perfect when I revved it up a little, because the engine was running on the fuel leaking from the injector instead of the regular injector pulse. With the leak plus injector pulse the cyl was getting way too much fuel. Easy task on 1 3 5 pain in the rear for 2 4 6 Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

The injectors are larger than the stock ones, out of a mid 90' s Subaru I believe. Not 100 percent certain but most definitely larger than stock. The intake manifold and throttle body are stock. The MAF is not used on this setup, instead the MS1 megasquirt computer has a built-in MAP sensor. The turbo is a cheap eBay t04e. I'll try and grab some photos tomorrow to show the exhaust routing. Also search for the build thread by "2milehigh" here on npora alot more of the step by step. Feel free to pm me if you have any particular questions. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

Also any recent work done, how many miles, does it happen all the time or just hot, cold, slowly getting worse or an all of the sudden issue etc etc. More info the better Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

Alot of things it could be, first things I would go for would be an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body. A vacuum leak after the throttle body. Or the MAF Itself . Next do a cyl Ballance test by pulling one plug wire at a time while running. If you pull a wire and there is no change in how the truck runs that cyl may be at fault for the issue. And before you put any money towards it save yourself a headache and do a compression test. I learned the hard way my valves were toast after doing, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new injectors, on and on. Took me 30 min with a compression tester to find my problem. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

All the ones I have done in the past have not come with the threaded ball end, so I gently pry the gas spring off the ball, just be careful you don't break the glass, last one I did only one side came free before I lost patience, so I just did the one, but it was enough to hold the hatch up. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

My truck running on 8 to 10 psi definitely gets her up on the freeway without issue. And in second gear with damp roads it will break the tires free on hard accel. A tuned ecu or standalone ecu, fuel pump, injectors, like said above are absolutely necessary. The cat that built this put a megasquirt ecu in the factory ecu case and uses the factory wiring harness. The standalone is nice because you can make changes to the tune yourself without having to ship something off to Jim wolf and it's cheaper. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

I have a bone stock 95 wd21 with a turbo running on 12 lbs of boost. With proper fueling and ignition control you can get quite a bit out of these reliably. Pistons are the first thing to go but the rest of the long block can handle north of 500. I don't. Have any Dyno numbers but I'm guessing mine is in the 225-250 hp range and it makes these things a blast to drive. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

Try to get the codes pulled again by someone else with a different scanner perhaps. Do you have a check engine light on?? If so getting the codes could be key to figuring this out. Is there any particular driving that makes it worse like up a hill, heavy accel, bumpy roads, time of day, temp, weather, etc. How many miles are on the rig? The more info the better chance we might have of helping you out.

I would go the route of having the radiator cleaned and inspected at a qualified radiator shop( we have one across the street from our shop and they charge about 40 bucks to hot tank and pressure check and paint) while the rad is at the shop replace the thermostat, and get a new radiator cap. If the coolant is crummy looking when you drain it I would flush it with a chemical flushing agent a few times then distilled water until it is crystal clear then add the appropriate amount of coolant to get proper freeze protection. On a poor mans budget start with the radiator cap, I would go OEM I have had brand new radiator caps from the big parts stores leave me on the side of the road.

Quick update on the project. I have about 3000 miles on it and she has been running beautifully except for a few minor things that I have been finding causing some issues. Mainly a shorted intake air temp sensor wire, and a hole the exhaust pipe rubbed through the brake booster causing a small vacuum leak. I have the boost up to 9 psi. But have pulled some timing from the top end to keep it well within the safe zone as this is currently my daily driver. But there is a lot of power left on the table. She will do 0-60 in about 10 sec. Which is not too bad considering there is no boost until about 2500-3000k rpm. On the highway in 4th gear this thing is a beast. Sent from the twilight zone

Not at the moment, looks just like you left it, I'll try and get a vedio making some pulls, she runs like a top and pulls nice and hard up to the hard cut. Sent from the twilight zone

It has been running great the last couple of weeks, I have the boost turned up to 6psi and the tuning is getting dialed in. Only issue is with cold start idle is finicky. Sent from the twilight zone

The patch job is leak free after 30 or so miles around town. Factory pumps from the dealer are available and run about 200 bucks and in hind sight would have been well worth the extra cash. Sent from the twilight zone

The schmuck is rock solid and leak free [for now] swapped a hopefully better ps pump in. Changed the engine oil and will drive it around this afternoon to see if it will hold Sent from the twilight zone

So I have ground a socket down to perfectly fit the plug and whacked it with a bfh. I also had to cut one of the bolts for the power steering mount to get access. And it is still leaking. So I ran down to the local gettin spot and got some of the fanciest highest temp, high tensile strength epoxy a man can get at 9pm on a saturday. Cleaned up the hole and schmucked it in. There will be an update tomorrow.

I have barely enough room to attempt a repair, my thoughts are to customize a punch to flare the plug, remove and replace plug and add sealant, any ideas?? Sent from the twilight zone

So here is an update on the project. I have almost 200 miles on the rebuild now, running at about 4 psi boost and this thing is an absolute blast to drive even at the low boost level it really wakes this engine up. I have been playing with the tuning a bit to clean up the idle and part/no throttle cruise range and have ordered a wideband o2 kit to make sure the tuning is good to turn up the boost. But my effing oil pump is leaking, (i could not find enough emoji's to demonstrate my frustration) After first getting it going I had a moderate oil leak that looked like it was powersteering, the pump was making a little noise no big deal because I have extra parts lying around. Tonight I pull it in the garage to pin down my leak (which is getting worse) and found it leaking out of the pressed in welsh plug in the side of the oil pump. I can barely access the the plug to attempt a repair without having to remove the oil pump. Updates to come.

HITACHI OUP0020 Enginetech EP060 The Hitachi gernaded upon first crank, the first enginetech came damaged, the second came and needed some deburring on the gears and is also now leaking(details to follow) Single at 4 psi now, plan to run around 10 once I get a wideband to monitor afr's.

If they are yellow I need to get my eyes checked. Looks like a blue/dark purple Sent from the twilight zone

It is running subie 370cc side feed injectors iirc, the injectors came from the original build Sent from the twilight zone

So over the weekend I have gotten everything put together and finally able to hit the street. And my butt dyno is happy. I have the boost turned down about as low as I can and it is still a completely different beast . Sent from the twilight zone

So I got the new, new ,new oil pump in the mail the other day went ahead and took it apart and glad I did, the gears felt crunchy and found out they had not been deburred properly and were hanging up on the housing, I took the gears to some fine emory cloth on a nice flat surface to lap the surface to an acceptable finish. Getting new parts that are not worth a @!*% is starting to get very annoying I have since gotten it installed, had oil to the filter in about 10-20 second crank, oil to the turbo another 20 sec or so. Turned on the fuel, plugged in the coil and nothing. Repaired the damaged connector for the crank sensor and IT LIVES. . Had it running for about 10 min or so, running really good, no leaks, as it warmed up it stalled out but I did not have all the sensors hooked up, or the intake piping, tank is on empty, have not made any adjustments to the tuning etc. So im not worried. Still have a bunch of crap to bolt on before it is mobile but it is running.