Lemay

I would test the battery first, a load test or what I prefer if you have the time is to get the battery fully charged. Let it rest 5-7 day and check voltage. If it's dropping the bat. is not holding it's charge. If it's hold the charge I would reinstall it in the truck but not driving it for few days. Check the voltage and you will find if you have a battery drain on the truck. some years ago I got 2 bad battery in a row at Canadian tire, so bad battery even if it's new can append!

I reaaaaaally like the way the cover bolt to the R50 diff. I got an idea... For testing purpose you can fill the bolt holes for the cover with NAPA 2K urethane adhesive, this is oil and solvents resistant and very good adhesion to metal, so perfect for filling void (or repair fuel tank and fuel line.. lol)

buy a brand new from NAPA they are lifetime warranty and no core charge. I've done this for the starter of my E-superduty 7.3 Powerstroke (it's a turbo diesel with a mechanical fuel pump) i burned 3 brand new starter and they never ask a question lol.... priming can be a pain on those truck and the starter suffer a lot of this. If I bought a (first quality) remanufactured starter from NAPA and I don't give the core (because I want to rebuilt it) they charge more than a new starter who don't have a core charge... and a lifetime warranty... so it's a no brainer!! and.... no I don't sell my good starters lol

Interesting... even the breather seem to be in the same spot! I've still not tested the Wd21 shaft in the wd22 diff, noting have been according to plant in my new house (electrical nightmare), but I'm in progress lol. I've built a tall table to work the diff side by side last weekend, but still need to change the distrib. this weekend in my wd21 before I can take my trailer to get my diff who is in my part truck at a storage area lol. I stay tune for your developments and I like the way you go! The tube welded are to the casing....right?

X 2!! We want pic or video!!! Is this a hornblasters kit? I want so much a train horn on my Nissan's and my E-Superduty

When you step in for path in -22*C and colder your start the truck and the factory CD player start right on.... and in your most newer car (2004 mazda 6) impossible to get the stock CD player read CD in -8*C... lol

Hi I'm an Xterra 2002 SE-SC owner for about 6 years now and... I love it! Reliable as hell and great for towing if you add leaf in the rear suspension. I've been hard on it a lot of time on rock trail and when I tow +8500lbs on looooong travel and it never fail on me. Trans still shift like a new one, but I have a big ass cooler on the trans + the stock cooler. The 2x4 VS 4x4 thing is only you don't have to change oil in the front diff/t-case because.... the 2X4 don't have one lol, all other thing is the same. Same maintenance basically. Little concern that I've seen on mine: - drip oil from the valve cover gasket (Ok my truck has seen more than 20 000km's of hi-rev towing, O/D off, more than 8500lbs in the back, engine rev at 3500-4000 et 110-120 km/h, so I can say my VG33ER work pretty hard in the summer) - Rear leaf has broken, my answer is a custom leaf pack who is 4 heavy-duty leaf + the load leaf at each corner in the back. It's now ride like it got no suspension in the rear and I love it, not ideal if you don't tow lol. Only that, all other thing was basic maintenance like oil, t-belt, brake, and an exhaust last summer, the fist one was on the truck for 13 year.

I've did this and I will repeat that on every truck that I have. With your manual hub, just drop your front diff, weld it and then install it in your truck. it's been on my VG33ER wd22 for years, with 305R70R17 (34') and with a lot of rock crawling trail, never broke the diff or anything. The R200A is sturdy as hell, and my friend with his wd22 welded REAR diff, it's funny as hell to run it on the street. Parking is somewhat noisy too lol

put back on the road my 95' blue path after 1 month and a half of work in the heated garage. I've put the path in the garage for a fuel leak and it degenerate in a complete little resto/ rust buffing on the body to keep it good until in 1 or 2 year I strip the paint (with paint stripper) and redo a complete re-spray with my marine & protective stuff (international paint) Repair the tire carrier who didn't close properly because the liner of the body bracket was bad and then give a lot of play at the lock.... the answer is.... tie-wrap!! those little things are life saver, the tire carrier is now closing properly and no more ''open tire carrier'' light on the dash. replacing a seized front caliper For info, a driver side carpet from a wd22 is nearly identical as a front driver carper of a wd21! just make the hole bigger for the bolt of the seat. Even the little hole for the little bracket who keep factory pathfinder stitched carpet (I don't know how to call it) from slipping under your feet line up! I thought that I have spare carpet of wd21 already out of the truck but no, that was from a wd22... and with the moving, no time to lose to get the carpet from my part truck at my friend house lol. So another WD21 saved!!

If you don't have access to an heated garage, yeah it can be tricky lol The epoxy at napa is not a fast curing epoxy so it sucks pretty bad, if you got fast curing epoxy it's way better but keep it mind that epoxy are way harder than an urethane (there are some formulation exception of course) who can lead to cracking on impact and loss of adhesion. Adam: lol for the screw.... this is exactly what did the PO on one of the front fender, and this is give a rusted-as-hell-look-but-I-try-to-hide-it If you got 1 or 2 in working unit that you want to sell I'm a buyer! On the blue 95' -Still sanding rust spot lol -in the heated garage for more than a week, nearly totally dry in the truck now, I'm pretty sure that my windshield or sunroof let water go in the truck - I've rimed a winter tire and.... forgot to have the tire balanced damn.... that i'm stupid lol

Now I know what your pathy look like! Great looking truck for an 1990, my 1995 safari green use to be like yours, black front fender lol just for info, my dad buy a brand new 1990 path in 1990, in 2001 the truck got complete paint job, new rear quarter where welded in place... ect... so yours with 25 years is not that bad! LOL If you look for a cheap and efficient method of patching hole and if you don't care too much the look, patch it with sheet metal and glue it with fast curing urethane 2K from napa (not the epoxy one who take 1 million years to react) You can go either speed ( i think 3 or 4 curing speed is available) I chose the 1-3 min working time who is the second fastest, so you got 1-3 min after the mix to apply the urethane and apply pressure. 1 hour total adhesion time... the faster one give you 30-60 sec. of working time, who is great sometimes.. but can be a bitch on humid day... when the NCO in the urethane react with water like hell and you got 30 sec. or less of working time!! LOL Pm me if you want pic or more info! On my 1995 sapphire blue: -Begging to remove body rust with the buffer (with a cutter disc). I have no mercy, corrosion have to go! - front seat are removed, the leather stitch are broken so I will repair them -complete Inspection of the floor -Begging to clean the hole in the driver floor, rust is bad in that spot -Ditch the driver side front carped in the trash, completely wet, just too disgusting to save that, I will take one from part truck -Complete sanitation of the truck, i bought the truck but I didn't drive it very much, needed work before putting a lot of km in it - WORKING FACTORY CD!!! Yeah I'm so in heaven right now! lol, got speaker working too! It was the Upper unit that was faulty not the cd unit -Interior door panel dismantled and cleaned to hell lol - Repair the latch of the tire carrier.. and few other thing!

hooo never think to remove them for cleaning!.... I just remove them lol. You just made me realize that I will not let my blue one exit my heated garage before all the paint chip and little spot are painted... my little blue path want to be as clean as yours!!! hahaha maybe it's will be hard to understand for others but here in quebec, find a truck/car as clean as the one Pav own, that got 20+ years and drive the winter is a next to impossible job...

PM sent

Got booth valve cover gasket replaced on my Xterra 2002 VG33ER at Nissan and a used NISMO exhaust (complete with the y-pipe with a little less that 2 year of use) from a Frontier short box. The tail pipe is right where is has to be, I was fearing that the exhaust would be a little too long. Took them 3.5 Hours for the valve cover gasket (2.5 hours theoretical in fast) and 1.5 Hours of exhaust fitting from the cat. and welding custom hangers with the removal and reinstall the skidrow complete skid plate.... witch is not that bad! Next step is the installation of DT headers Finding the source of the mega fuel lost on my 1995 Safire blue WD21, was stunned to see on the top of the fuel tank, the metal line that fuel exit to get in the rubber line completely broke off.... this is why I hate to get primed 2-3 sec. before starting to get it started the first time.... With less than 1/4 of inch of metal left, just take to bare metal everything on that area, connect the hose as best as I can and then fill the whole area with 2part urethane adhesive/filling agent for metal body panel repair. Work awesome, resist solvents, no more leak and this is the method I used 2 year ago on my trailer queen! Even the ground who was rip off of the tank is repaired that way

hahaha!! Yeah You are right. I will not make a debate... but damn that people (and students) here can be dump. The only thing is great here is the north where it is full of no-man-lands (I'm from chibougamaux lol), you can drive 12h in one direction and not getting to the border who is a awesome thing, no mandatory safety inspection/smog (I REALLLLLLY love that lol) and cheap insurance. Cops are stupid and the new rule for lifted 4x4 is bad to the point that the the rallye ''jeppy'' here in Victoriaville is for stock truck if you don't want your truck being put in ''no drivable condition'' and get tow on the scene by the SQ.... what a mess.... maybe a government a little bit too communist?

Good lookin QX4!!... i wish mine where as clean as your QX. LOL, mine is black too On kijiji/lespacs (canadian aquivalent to craiglist) there are plenty of gold(champagne?), silver... and price are pretty high. Black is the best color for a QX, with the black interior, and with that wood color like pictured in the post it's so lol People don't realise but an interior of a QX4 is more luxurious than a P38 Range Rover!!! (and i know that because i work on these). Wayyyyy more reliable too.. Keep Wheeling the QX!! Show to the rest of the world that an infiniti can be an awesome trail rig!

lol!!! good emoticon.... this was exactly my face when a look under the truck and see only a piece of the panhard (like 1 feet) rusty and broken on the frame side. I was like.... Mmmm there is something that is missing!!! No joke, never tought this piece of the suspension can broke I run a 1997 panhard rod on the 2001.5 QX4.... JY was telling me that is not the same year and will not fit, i respond them: you know nothing just give me the damn thing. This give you idea how bad car/truck can get rusty in the moron state that i live who salt road like this. I've seen salt rock break windshield when they get airborne by passing car... This is my winter daily driver truck, yes you have read DD lol, i run it last winter with the vibration but i want to repair it to do damage to the t-case or diff, do a brake job (i do brake job on my each of my truck each 6 month), repair the frame, repair hole in the door, change front wing that i get for 40$ at nissan (yess a OEM front wing for 40 buck!!) and drive it until it can't be drive on hiway/city safely, on that time, it will take the place of my Trailerqueen to be a QX4 trail monster. My wd21 trailerqueen is on it's last leg, the frame is completly shot even with multiple repair and i feel the frond diff hit the floor pan or something like that when the front flex... this is piss me off to see good body, exelent motor that run like a brand new but the frame of the truck barely hold himself (insert cry emoticon here) lol

lol... even more information! Tanks for the link of the post, yeah that pretty what nissan victoriaville want (us is like 80$ CAN) each u-join + time.... on a 400$ canadian buck QX4.... lol... This thing is so rusty, there are 3 perforation on the subframe big enough that i can nearly put my hand in the subframe (nissan still put it on lift lol), panhard rod was broken (absent!!!) when a bought it and drive it home (this was interesting). so I'm sure the rear d-shaft as take angle and side to side sway that nissan never intended, enough to get it offspecs/broken. I have mutiple rear d-shaft (and front one too) in the rolling shed so i want to try something free first. Will try to swap the front one with a wd21/wd22 front-dshaft too, they are the same to the point that i dont even know who is the wd21 d-shaft and who is the wd22 d-shaft in the shed lol ( the rear and front!) If all goes well i will rebuild a good d-shaft with the NEAPCO one... just want to be sure, really sure that is the d-shaft the problem. The truck is sitting on the bumpstop too, i would think it's not helping it... lol

tanks alot guys!! That exacly what i want to know! Hawairish : tanks alot! very good info, forget to remember that CourtesyParts.com exist, Didn't think either to swap the yoke, i will try this first.... damn another thing to do this weekend lol djratlif: tanks but no need to, now that i know that two drive shaft type exist, all is more clear now. Tank you for your offer 01Pathmaker : the d-shaft is at 404 000km now, so it pretty used-up lol, i didn't see a bent or a play in the u-join. I want to try another d-shaft for that reason, before spend on getting the u-join rebuild at nissan. I read case that even a u-join change didn't fix the issue, so i'm more inclined to try another d-shaft and see if it's ok than rebuild the one on the QX4 and have a chance that this didn't fix anything For another time, tanks alot for your answer guys!!

Hi, My QX4 need rear drive-shaft, it's shaking alot, and i've try to swap a wd21 rear drive shaft 3 mont ago. The thing swap right in exept the nose of the d-shaft (the part that goes in the t-case.... yoke?) is too long, the dust cap is far from the t-case The qx4 is with the electronic t-case so my question is : Is all R50 d-shaft are all the same or the tx10a and the electronic version are different? I assume that with the TX10 R50 the d-shaft will be a long (yoke?) VS the d-shaft from a electronic t-case who is nearly halft the lenght ( i call it short nose lol).... so i'm wrong or not? lol Try go get the answer before my JY run and at work i can't download FSM. Tanks alot

Hawairish i haven't forget you, been busy as hell last weeks and the kidney surgery of my mother doesn't help me at all lol... If it's not raining this weekend i will try to swap the thing... i have no garage and power tool usualy don't like water i have to do a front brake job this weekend as well, and if all goes like i planned and i do it, i will get measurement of the cv at the flange on the same time from my 2001.5 QX4 VS wd21/wd22 who is a identical cv minus the bolt patern

lol... at this weight, this will hurt for sure!! I will try to swap the thing ASAP and came back with pic and finding! Tanks for input!!

good tanks! I've always be in the impression that the flange and shaft have just to be pull to get it out of the diff.

Hawairish... maybe i'm an idiot.. lol... but i can't pull the flange ?!? With my rubber hammer, they don't want to be pull at all. By memory the flange just need to be pull.. right? I think some year ago a R200A flange has separated from de carrier when i was moving them to the rolling shed... but it's like 2-3 year ago so my memory is not that fresh on this. Booth my wd21 and wd22 don't want to be pull, maybe it's just me and i need a BFH?

Here's the internal change from a 1995 WD21 R200A and in second 2002 WD22 R200A. The flange on FSM seem pretty similar.