Nefarious

Yeah the drive shaft is quite close to hitting it. Maybe 3/4 inch of clearance at ride height. Lol. Also going to have to make some extended rear sway bar disconnects. The sway bar is at a pretty funny angle now haha

I haven't been, but I will by request! Might get a glimpse of sun later in a bit here. The rain seems to be breaking, so once it does, I'll snap some pics.

Finished installing my rear lift springs. The pathy now officially has 7 inches of suspension lift. Just need to put in my e brake extension brackets and get my Panhard drop bracket extended. Might be notching my crossmember soon as well. It's starting to get pretty close at droop.

Map gas torch + wrench has worked every time for me!

Jacked up the rear and took the wheels off. Drooped the rear axle down and detached the shocks, panhard bar and sway bar in preparation for lift springs 7 inches of pure suspension lift is almost complete. I'm starting to think about trying coilovers in the front with a set of superlift upper control arms would love to ditch the torsion bars.

I got a set of plastic clear headlights for my wd21 for exactly that purpose. I'll be ordering the retrofit projector kit from theretrofitsource.com . you can convert to anything from mini d2s all the way to Lexus or infiniti oem projectors. Then you get HID the proper way.

The timing belt marks look proper but I'm not sure about the distributor, I've never worked on a tbi model. Your mechanical timing looks great I would look into the distributor being out of time

every time you think you have found a clean one, that damn rust rears it's ugly head again eh? You gotta come grab west cost truck man, there are quite a few nice frames left over here.

Did you say u have 43 teeth between the cams? That's wrong if that's the case. Cam to cam should have 40 teeth, drivers (left) side cam to crank sprocket should be 43 teeth.

Those definitely look to be external accessory bolts. Those definitely have nothing to do with the head gasket job, I wouldn't worry. They will find a home when u put it back together and a certain bracket or accessory still has an open threaded hole in it

Cost for a used engine hoist (75$ on Craigslist) Cost for new oem rear main seal (20$ from nissan) A weekend of blood sweat and TEARS to pull the engine and replace the seal, while having the truck back together for Monday. (Priceless) This will be my life the next time I have a long weekend, haha. Lol

Just stick the crank bolt back in the crank. The force it takes to spin the engine doesn't torque down the bolt very tight and it will be easy to take out again, once the marks are lined up. Well, considering it's a 4 stroke engine; the crank spins twice for every rotation of the cams. So you should have it lined up in under two full revolutions of the crank. It won't take long, very easy to do. I've found that there often isn't a mark on the oil pump for the lower timing mark that's supposed to be located parallel to the mark on the crank sprocket, so I will use an automatic center punch to make my own mark (once the cam sprockets are both lined up). This is just for another reference point.

That, my friend, is a valid upgrade.

you shouldn't have to, but I really would if it were me. It will only add another 30 minutes to the over all job. I would say it's worth the peace of mind, and definitely check over that thread on the timing belt how to.

I would put the belt back on and count the teeth to any arbitrary points and then rotate the engine until it's at top dead center on the compression stroke and then pull the belt and put it back on with the marks aligned properly so you can be sure you aren't off anywhere. As long as you haven't rotated the crank or the cams individually with the belt of, you shouldn't have any issues doing this.

Don't feel bad, I fried a thing or two when electricity was still a hobby; before I went to school for electrical and automation and took it up for a living. It really helps to sink in those lessons you learn and also keeps you diligent in making all of your checks in the future. Hopefully it didn't become an expensive lesson. The less costly lessons are generally preferred in this instance, haha.

that my friend, is what we call a 'dry contact' in the electrical world.

I'm running obx headers with a full custom exhaust. 2" off the headers into a 2.5 " y pipe and 2.5" from there on back. MagnaFlow hi flow cat and a Flowmaster 40 series muffler, which I will be changing soon for a magnaflow 18" muffler.

Went out and cranked up a tiny bit and leveled out my two front torsion bars. One side was a bit higher than the other and it was driving me crazy... now I just need to set the camber and toe in the front end and aim my head lights. The new rig is really getting there now

You may just have seized shocks? When I first picked up my old 93 it rode very very stiff. Turned out the shocks were so shot that they were actually seized . No bouncing, but VERY rough and stiff ride. When I pulled them they were so stiff I couldn't even compress them at all with all of my 250 lbs of body weight. Put in some cheap Monroe shocks and it rode beautiful after. Worth checking? Pathfinders ride quite nice with a good set of shocks so I would guess that may be your problem?

I run 4300k hid colour, which is the only factory and legal colour and has the best visibility of any of the headlight options per lumen. I personally love them and I can see FAR better than I could before with the combination of new housings and the conversion. Even in the dense fog in the coastal town I live in, I can see better. There are a LOT of wild animals around here including elk and deer, which frequent the highways, which are 120 kmh. Trust me, you need to see as clearly as possible out here. No street lamps on most roads just reflectors. I live in the boonies haha

It's the large torque increase that you really notice. Vg33 swap really transforms how the truck drives in my opinion, but I did headers and exhaust at the same time as the swap so I had a very pronounced change I suppose. With a supercharger it would be a massive jump in torque. I would personally swap in the supercharged motor if i had the opportunity. I would personally just run the factory vg30 ecu and just get a tune for a supercharger on it. That would be the easiest way. Your call, but I would definitely do it!

Pipe is pipe and silicone is silicone. The only downfall there would be filter quality, which can be swapped out easilly. I'm going to build my own similar to that, but it will lead into a spectre inline air filter and then into a snorkel to avoid the water issue

Just finished installing my HID conversion on the WD21. Low and high beam are working and now I just need to aim them properly So much better ! Now the headlights are powered through a relay and converted to HID with proper conversion housings. Never will I complain about my trucks lighting again.