PJpathy

I bought a set of exhaust headers and Y pipe about six months ago for my 94 WD21 VG30E 4x4 Pathfinder. I haven't fitted them up yet, but I'm a little concerned they may not fit as its a RHD model not LHD. Things like steering shaft etc may get in the way. Has anyone fitted a set of extractors to a RHD pathfinder, are they pretty universal?

Sorry for digging up this thread, but everyone here mentions they have to add more shims to their upper control arms to align their front ends after a lift. This is completely opposite of what I seem to be having to do. After lifting the front end around 2", I get a lot of positive camber, meaning I need to take shims out (problem is there are only two small shims, need to remove more). Does this sound right? Also people mention that they modify the upper bumpstops to get more droop. I found on mine with the upper bumpstops completely removed (didn't even realise there was upper bump stops until I looked at a parts breakdown sheet) that the wheels seriously tucked underneath the car. One mate even described it as looking like the BTTF DeLorean about to take off, obviously exaggerating. Problem with this is that it lands on the wheels at that angle, surely this cant be good? The wheels also toe in when they droop.

Mine rockcrawls great (although I'm twin locked), but the clearance is a nightmare as you can't lift the IFS much. Another problem is when you are driving a hard section and the front end bounces in the air, the IFS tucks the wheels underneath the car and then lands on them at an awkward angle, not too good. Can't wait to SAS.

I just completely bypassed the amps and ran the speaker cable directly from the head unit. Was worried about the small gauge of the 12v feed cable to the head unit, but it seems to work fine.

I am about to start on the SAS conversion for my 94 Pathfinder and have to decide which route to go. Currently my setup is the H233B rear with 4.8 ratio + airlocker, and the C200 IFS 4.8 ratio + airlocker. The airlockers are fantastic and gets me most places, but the damn IFS keeps holding me up. You just can't lift em enough to clear anything, its like a bloody bulldozer that gets stuck. Not to mention the bloody angles the front wheels get when I'm bouncing over boulders, it looks like a bloody DeLorean from BTTF. Anyway, I'm good with fabrication and want to start a SAS swap. The two options that I can think of with costs are: Use an MQ Patrol salisbury front diff and have it modified to offset the pumpkin to the passenger side (and just swap axles over left to right), then I can swap my IFS diff gearing and locker straight into it and fabricate mounts using control arms from a GQ. The average quotes I'm getting to modify the diff are averaging around $700. My other option is to buy a Grand Cherokee Dana 44, buy 4.8 ratios off ebay for $300 and a locker for $1200. I have located a diff for $500 complete, here are pics. Both would require custom mounts obviously to fit them to Pathfinder. Is there any other options out there, what do you guys recommend? Buying the Rugged Rocks custom front diff housing would be sweet, but that still requires buying a diff centre with right ratio and airlocker.

I was going to ask you about that passengerpete; how you got away with the pumpkin on the drivers side.

If its that sound deadener stuff, best way to remove it is to cover it in dry ice then chip it off in chunks.

So what is a larger alternator I can upgrade to from an Australian delivered vehicle?

Anyone? Does anyone maybe have a listing of bearing and seal sizes for the front?

I have just removed 4.8 diff gears from a wrecked Pathfinder and im going to install ARB lockers front and rear. I need rebuild kits for both the front and rear diffs. The bearing joint lists bearing and seal kit for the rear diff but not the front. Are they the same bearings and seals for the front and rear?

I have always just activated cruise with the little paddle switch, never used the one on the end.

There is a little button (i think its a button) on the very end of the headlight/cruise control stalk. It doesnt seem to do anything, is it actually a button? Just had a thought, it could be something to do with cruise, haven't tested that yet. Maybe speed(-) or cancel cruise. Either way I dont use those functions, might rewire it.

Fitted the S30 Airflow snorkel to my 94 Pathfinder. The snorkel is actually made for a Navara, the front ends should be the same, oh how I was wrong. Had to modify everything, was a bitch to install, strewth the only thing the same was the shape of the guard, and even then its touch and go. Might have to modify windscreen wiper so it doesnt touch snorkel.

Can you even run a halogen off an HID ballast, and if you can, why would you want to??

Is that tube the one that makes the Fast and the Furious whistling noise?

Actually its on the right side! *boom tish*

Its bloody from the last smartarse passenger that didnt survive my brake test hehe. Anyway, I figured it out. When the new windscreen was installed the industrial adhesive they used got on the metal cover panel and held it fast, so after a lot of swearing and a hell of a lot of brute force, it gave way.

There are several large screws deep underneath the metal cover in my pics that you can only just get to if you force the cover up, and I do mean force like almost bend the bastard so it must come off somehow, I just cant work out how. I managed to get to those screws and undo them, but you still seem to need to get that metal cover off. I downloaded a PDF of what seemed to be my Pathfinder model. The section where it shows the dash in an exploded diagram, shows the metal cover im talking about in three separate pieces that just pull off. Mine is one long large single piece.

How the smeg do you remove the bloody dash out of the Pathfinders? I have unscrewed everything I can see, the whole dash now pivots at the top moving in and out. But I still cant get the damn thing out, I cant get the metal windscreen vent cover off. Ive managed to pry it up and the metal clips at the front have popped out, but it is still holding fast. Ive yanked, pried, pulled, everything I can think of and it still wont budge. How do I get this piece out?

So is anyone actually running the 5.1's, are they tough enough?

Im considering going to either 4.8 or 5.1 diff gears for when I go to 33" tyres on my Pathfinder. The 4.8's would bring me back to stock i think, but wouldnt mind a little better low range at sacrifice of a couple of hundred cruising RPM's. Are the 5.1's ok? Are the pinions on em too small and weak? Ruggedrocks show they stock Nismo R&P's, are they good? http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-differential-gears-c-38_854.html

Thanks for the welcome guys. I love forums for sharing of information.