statikuz

Ended up doing what should have been done in the first place - pull fuses to try and isolate the problem. Ended up being the rear cargo lamp switch that had gone bad. Unwrapped a lot of wires to figure that one out.

Alrighty so a few weeks ago my alternator went kaput - replaced with Maxima alternator - went fine. Ran fine for a few days, then the truck just shut off when driving. Busted out the DMM and found that the positive terminal on the alternator was grounded somewhere. After much ado ended up tearing out the white wires that run to the alternator from the battery. The big white wire that runs from one of the connectors on the battery is still grounded somewhere! I've torn it out of the wiring harness all the way back to the firewall, where it goes in and comes back out, then runs to this connector: ... that connects to the mess of stuff attached to the positive battery terminal. In this photo you can see the two white wires in question, the upper one runs to the alternator, and the lower one goes to the battery terminal connector as above. One of my questions is, what is the thick black insulated section of the upper white wire? Also - what is the orange loop connector on the right side of the photo? The Chilton book mentions this as a fusible link? The white wire, which is shown in wiring diagrams as going directly from the alternator to the battery, goes through the firewall? Anyone know why? Main question being - any insight on what could be wrong here? Probably not including all the pertinent information in the first post so ask questions if need be. Thanks for your help and happy new year!

I did actually today sell my Pathy to a friend of mine. I had just kinda disappeared for awhile. I think the window lock switch locks everything but the driver windows - I played with it and it didn't make a difference. I will probably scrounge a master window switch this week and see if that fixes it. Has to be something simple if its affecting both windows I thought (i.e. not a bad drive mechanism or something)

"so I checked that first." Yep, those don't work either.

So I searched around and read what I could find on power window issues but it didn't seem to help. My front power windows work fine, but the rear ones = nada. I have had issues with the front ones before, which always ended up being the driver's window switch being loose or whatever, so I checked that first. Can just the rear window part of the switch bite the dust? Anyone else had this problem? I considered replacing the driver's switch but figured I would check and see first.

Its kind of a bummer but from the ones I've seen that's the story with any grille guard. Here's some pictures of the WAAG one... you can see the problem. The WAAG guards run about $600 too. If you're just looking for a little looks, you could scope out a prerunner bar that bolts to the stock bumper (like in my avatar), but if you want any sort of protection you should probably invest in a full ARB-style bar, which would run you somewhere like $850 depending where you get it (even though I know you said you weren't looking for one like that.)

It's all the same body style - "Nissan Pathfinder 1986-1995 2WD,4WD" is on that list.

Manik makes one - I didn't look for an online retailer but I imagine it would run you about $350-400. http://www.manik.com/products/?id=3355&rsku=7857

PIAA 520s on the roof and cheapo Pro Comps on the bumper: http://www.citlink.net/~dboge/IMG_8038.jpg

i wired up all my lights so i CAN turn them on if i don't have the engine running, that way if I just need a bit of light real quick I don't have to start up the truck. considering the headlights are wired up so you can leave THEM on, i imagine you would either be trained to turn your lights off when you get out, or you would probably notice that you left on some big bright lights when you turn your truck off =) my piaas were wired up in the beginning so that you could only turn them on if you had your brights on (as per the piaa instructions) but i got kinda sick of that so i fixed them =)

then you should be fine i imagine, there's no problems with fitting 31s" under a stock pathy, and since you have that lift, there really shouldn't be any fitment issues.

yeah, i'm with 88, i would put them up front so that way you really get some use out of them... if you just want some reverse lights you can get some real el cheapo ones and use those. you'll appreciate your nice lights if you can actually see them too

pro comps are super cheap and work well, hellas are pretty good, piaas are really nice and expensive, and lightforce is the most expensive but also the slickest. =) http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/index.asp?cat=LIG you mount them with a bolt =) onto whatever sort of rack or bar you might have up top, and you wire them up with a switch and a relay http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/electrical/zj_lighting/

actually, a 265/70 is 30.7" in diameter, the same as a 31x10.50. so you're getting the tires and rims together?

i guess they might be able to order more stuff for you, but their site doesn't have much, only for 1999+ nissans =( oh yeah, i guess they do call them "vibration dampeners". it's part of the crankshaft pulley that... well... dampens its vibrations =) according to 88's part sheet, the dealership will charge you $144 for the entire new pulley. http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/309a901.html ???

no, i don't imagine it would be a problem if they're the same bolt pattern. but since the wheels are now 16", you'll need to replace all your tires because your old ones (probably on your 15" stock rims) won't fit anymore.

a steering stabilizer?

summit racing rocks, they have a real slick site and real fast shipping, but its not free per se, they charge you a $9.50 handling charge per order, but regardless of size, so unless you order some tires or something, your order can be as large as you want.

haha i wasn't correcting anybody, i thought it was just a good site to buy shackles from, with nice descriptions and diagrams and a good selection. =) incidentally they also have 419,999 other parts to choose from

i agree, both the website and the forum could use some reskinning/redesigning. http://www.nissanpathfinders.com/ looks pretty poor and this forum isn't too exciting (btw 88, i like the skin on yours )

http://www.mcmaster.com/ go to shackles under material handling

well yeah, you paid like $42 USD off $220 USD, an 82% discount is pretty sweet =) i knew it was CAD which is why i said that was a steal sly

yeah, those 510s are usually like $220 or so, still a steal of a deal

or you can probably go to your local ricer/stereo shop and buy one for like $5, or from crutchfield for like $10 (ripoff). or if you want the darn bestest door clippy remover thingy you can get this one! http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...ore&dir=catalog i've pulled my door panels off and on a bunch of times and a real wide bladed slotted screwdriver works fine for me.

yeah, type-r usually gets you the +5, type-s is like +25! i'm diggin' your CB there, i gotta get around to one of those and figuring where the heck i would mount it...