Jump to content

Towncivilian

Members
  • Posts

    2,010
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Everything posted by Towncivilian

  1. I would periodically inspect your Fram fuel filter, Kyle. I've read anecdotal reports that the outer shell rusts quickly where other brands are fine after several years. Maybe just change it earlier than planned, i.e. after a year of use.
  2. Change the fluid in 10k miles to dump any new break in wear and any crud that fell in during the rebuild and you'll be good to go. Change it every 30-50k miles afterwards. Use GL-4 manual trans lube only.
  3. I think there are crush washers under those (Banjo?) bolts.
  4. Run Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner (20oz bottle) in 2 back-to-back tanks. It may be sulfur build up on the fuel sending unit.
  5. A little high shouldn't cause any issues. If it's >0.5quart overfilled (checked properly, not just pull the dipstick - cycle through gears with parking brake set on flat surface, then pull dipstick, wipe, reinsert, pull, check cold level) then I'd drain some out or just do a drain & fill.
  6. Check the resistance of the engine coolant temp sensor according to the FSM, maybe it's out of spec.
  7. Yeah, that's why I put "crud" in quotes. Gasoline today is very clean.
  8. The fuel pickup is at the bottom of the tank so any "crud" that somehow settled at the bottom would be ingested regardless. That's what the fuel pump sock and inline fuel filter are for.
  9. When my cruise cancel bumper fell off my cruise still turned on, it just didn't set (nor did the "set" indicator blink, that may have something to do with the fact that I replaced it with an LED bulb but I doubt it). But it is still worth checking, your 96 may be different after all.
  10. Yes, always follow the factory service manual on whatever vehicle you're working on.
  11. The FSM wants you to begin with page EL-170 of the factory service manual. But first I'd check that your horn works (if not, fuse or spiral cable is likely to blame), ensure the ASCD pump's vacuum hose is not damaged, and that the rubber bumpers on your brake pedal are still present. If that doesn't yield any fix, then continue with the electrical diagnoses in the FSM.
  12. Clear the codes and see if any reappear.
  13. Do you have any other dead interior bulbs? My odometer lights up with headlights off. When I had a dead bulb in the rear defroster switch, it never lit up unless headlights were on and the dimmer switch was not off. I fixed the bulb in the rear defroster switch and noticed the odometer lighting up always now, except with parking/headlights on and dimmer switch off. So maybe there's some weird circuit going on? Have you ensured the illumination bulb for the left side cluster looks OK? Swap it with a middle one and see if the problem moves.
  14. Page CO-6 of the factory service manual shows a cooling circuit. I'd remove the wind deflector/splash guard under the engine and make sure that neither radiator hose is leaking, to begin with. Also inspect your radiator cap according to this TSB and replace with a new OEM one if necessary.
  15. Yellow sludge? Under your oil cap? It's just an emulsion of blow-by gases combined with condensation. It's commonplace in winter time, and it's below the oil cap because it's the highest (and coolest) part of the crankcase. Once a week, drive up to operating temperature and continue driving 20 minutes to boil off moisture and the problem should stop happening. As for oil, whatever 5W30 is on sale. 10W30 is an obsolete grade and serves no useful purpose today. Any filter will be fine too, although for colder temperatures you may want a filter with a silicone antidrainback valve which doesn't become brittle and hard like the nitrile ADBVs on cheaper filters do. Silicone ADBVs generally seal better too since they are more pliable. Silicone ADBVs are orange, so just open the box and look at the filter - you'll know. Change it after 5,000 miles. VQs also take 5.25 QTS "by the book" but I just dump in 5qt jug and it's at the full line.
  16. CRC's Guaranteed to Pass contains PEA, also found in cheaper products such as Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, and Redline SI-1. I doubt it has anything special other than kerosene or some other solvents to act as a carrier. Go with the cheaper products, they will work just as effectively. I wish Florida had safety and emissions inspections. It would get so many unsafe vehicles off the road. The cost is minuscule compared to the amount of injuries and deaths prevented from unsafe vehicles on the road.
  17. Precise1, this gear lube study describes each of those tests. While no GL-4 manual transmission lube is tested as part of this whitepaper, it is still an interesting read. Amsoil MTG should work great in any transmission requiring GL-4 fluid.
  18. The plug is 13mm. Harbor Freight sells a drain plug socket set including the correct sized socket.
  19. Traction control? 2001 Pathfinder doesn't have any form of traction control. I think 2003-2004 R50s do. I also don't know what they're talking about with the brake thing.
  20. Has your Pathfinder been inspected for the strut housing corrosion recall? Post some photos of each wheel well. Your Pathfinder may be an unrepairable death trap.
  21. I guess you could pull the ABS fuse and pull the ABS warning lamp. But the brake warning lamp might also turn on, not sure. I'd never pull that bulb.
×
×
  • Create New...