andrewt6447

I know this is an old thread, but if anyone is still interested, the best thing you can do for a TD27t is make a new exhaust manifold. The stocker is horribly undersize/ restrictive. It will require a fair bit of mods to make it work, as you really have to move the turbo away from the engine a bit, requiring a new downpipe (and maybe oil/water pipes), which you can improve on heaps too if you make it from the turbo flange and get rid of the big cast bit, and figuring out the intake routing too, which isn't bad because with the turbo moved you can do away with the restrictive little 90 deg fitting on the turbo intake. Doing this changed Mine heaps, it spools up earlier and much stronger, and pulls hard 'till the fuel can't keep up.

Just to be annoying and fwiw, I wouldn't bother with the Terrano box anymore, I fitted the much stronger box/transfer from a later Navara QD 32. They pretty much bolt straight in apart from a couple of small mods and don't break like the little Terrano/Pathy box's do. What I was told is the original box has the same internals as a stock Skyline, the Navara one has GTR internals. It certainly is much bigger than a stocker.

I bought mine in October '98 @ 95,000 km's. It's done 109000 now* * note: We pay diesel mileage over here....

If you look back at my post a couple ago, I'd advise against putting more angle on the bj end of the arm. Seriously, the arm gets much more upward angle at full compression than it gets downward at full extension. I can't remember the numbers exactly but it was enough to make me keep mine as they were, and I even considered making the angle flatter. PLUS, changing the angle of the balljoint WON'T help the camber, the bj pivots at arm level, so all changing the angle acheives is making it sit flatter at ride height, and risking bending/breaking it at full compression. I'd be happy for someone to prove Me wrong, but I did a @!*%load of measuring/working it out....

Nope. Because it needs to be wider where it projects from the original bracket. At 2" the bolt will need to go through at about the level of the bottom of the original bracket.

I'm not sure of the differences either, but they did use the TD27 in heaps of different applications. I'd hazard a guess that it's only little stuff...intake manifold , exhaust etc... FWIW my old td27t has done about 350000 k's, has only been apart to change a bent rod ( Don't ask... I just threw in a s/h one with the original bearings and piston /rings etc) and still goes real well. Doesn't use oil (never have to top it up between changes) and it gets a hiding. If you do do it, chuck a turbo at it....they are a little slow n/a.

Most likely. If yours has the different size tapers on the stock centerlink, then you will need a 91-92 pitman. The 93+ has a bigger taper on the pitman arm, so the 2wd centerlink bj that goes in there is too small. Edit, Oh yeh, I just want to correct something I said in an earlier post, it is the idler joint that wears on the stock setup, not the pitman one as I said. This joint is the one that stops the centerlink rocking, the pitman one is a normal bj. This crap design also explains why we bend idlers so easy...there's a lot of leverage on the poor thing trying to control that centerlink....

I'm not confused about the difference between feedback and bumpsteer, I've been doing alignments for around 15 years.... With My weight hanging on the front of the truck, it had around 3mm of toe change (bump-steer) stock, now it has around 1mm. easy. With the arm lengths, the change in bumpsteer comes from the overall length, where the pivot points (tre's) are located, and the angle. Those bighorn centerlinks will shorten the tie rods, and put them on a steeper angle...not good. This will increase the bumpsteer massively. Try it on a piece of paper (or pooter program if ya have one) and see for yourself.

Of course. It simply comes down to how much you reinforce them....though they already support the weight of it... The top arm may be an issue...you'll need a pretty big bend in the rear of the 'loop' to get around a coilover.

The guy that does the engineer certs for work has a d21 Terrano body on a 2wd Navara frame...bolted straight on he reckons....

The bit sicking out at the top will be fine, but the insert usually isn't a tight fit into the housing, they usually supply a bushing that fits in the top to take up the space, then the bottom slots tightly into the bottom of the housing so it can't move either. Looking at the pics I found it has a little extension that spigots in... If it's a tight fit all the way down, then ignore everything I said...

I use photobucket ( http://www.photobucket.com ) and link them from there...

Na, the subaaroo has Mcpherson struts front and rear.... Basically if you don't mind engineering/spending money, just get another diff so you can rob the long side and then you can fit that into the rear you have, and adjust both to fit how you want. Alternately if parts are that hard to get, you could shorten the long side down and get some longer cv shafts made up. Any half competant engineer should be able to make some out of some old axles, you may even be able to use your old rears.

Be careful with the spacers on the bottom too. The inserts take all the side loadings on your front suspension, and while the spacers at the bottom are a better idea that at the top, they still take load. If possible, get someone to weld your spacers in place, or make a sleeve that is snug in the housing that the insert fits tightly into as well, so it takes all the side thrust. Basically you don't want the bolt to have any bending force applied to it, shear and tension load only. edit: duh, thinking about it....if you make the spacers to fit the id. of the strut it'll be fine.....

You could always cut the rear off a good frame and weld it into your buggered one.....may be easier depending on how far forward it's rusty.

Yep. Much easier for dirt/rocks etc to get between the rim and bead, and as it'll be 'stretched' it's already fighting the tension in the carcass to stay on there anyway.

Pathfinder and Terrano are pretty much the same here....jap imports are terrano's, both V6 and Diesel, and Pathfinders are the local equivalent, though they came with a little 4cyl petrol as well as the v6 and diesel options. Most Terrano's seem to be optioned better, but You could get it all here too, we're just too cheap....

31X10.5's on 10" wheels.....it will be really easy to knock the beads off when you go offroad....

Are you sure about this? On mine there was LESS bump steer, at least at the amount of movement I can generate on the alignment machine at work. How much toe in did you set it at? You need to adjust the toe in to allow for the different bump, the original setting will probably be too much, at least the specs we use down here are.... On another note, the isuzu centerlink will be a bad idea if it fits, it'll shorten the tie rods too much, creating more bumpsteer and more angle on the outer tre's. The isuzu's only have short travel so they get away with it....

Don't forget to get an Idler brace....

Uh, yeh, thanks for reminding me, gotta take to that with the angle grinder....

Cheers, just this morning ordered some local one's. But I'm keeping this bookmarked for next time.

I finally got around to sorting it out..... Better?

I know this is an old thread, but in defence of calmini.....I've been making a few idler braces for the guys over here, and there is some variation in the idler arms. I thought there were 2 different one's (stock 12mm, and an aftermarket 14mm shaft one), but there seems to be more. Mostly variations in the length of the shaft, but at least one was slightly different in the offset. And of course if it's already bent it wont fit either.... It's no excuse for poor service though....

Rancho RS9000's. Adjustable.