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Inyourface1650

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Inyourface1650 last won the day on November 24 2013

Inyourface1650 had the most liked content!

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About Inyourface1650

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2001 Pathfinder LE 193K Miles
  • Place of Residence
    Salt Lake City, UT
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salt Lake City, UT

Recent Profile Visitors

4,001 profile views
  1. Threw the new amp in it - also new cabin air filters - I didn't realize R50 had CAFs - test drove it - seemed fixed. Fiance drove it the next day and reported no AC. I got in it, drove over a speed bump, and had AC again. I've got the glove box off and going to have her wiggle wires next time it fails. I can't make it stop wiggling either the amp or blower wires. I love intermittent issues. So much fun. I've got a blower and a wiring harness coming too...
  2. Looks like the amp is only $20 on Amazon. I've got one of those and a new blower incoming. Keep ya updated.
  3. Hey gents, Last couple of times we've gotten into the 2001 Pathfinder LE - the Blower has not started. We can see the blower "fan blades" filling on the automatic air conditioning screen- so it appears to me the controller is asking for the fan to turn on. It doesn't matter in manual load if your set to speed 1 or 4, the fan doesn't start. It will occasionally turn on after about 2-3 minutes of driving. The fan sounds perfectly normal if/when it eventually comes on, and the AC will work normally the rest of the trip. In other vehicles in the past, I've replaced both Blower Fans and Resister packs, so I am familiar how manual AC works and some common failures. The fact the fan does eventually come on and runs normally, leads me to believe its not necessarily a blower problem - no squealing or speed variations etc. The fact that once the fan gets going all speeds are available, leads me to not a resister pack issue either - as that usually is the result of just the full speed working and no other speeds. Does this use a traditional resister pack or something else? Possibly a head unit problem? The fact the head unit shows the speeds being called for leads me to believe head unit is good. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
  4. So - I figured this out. When i got the Truck about 10 months ago it had a very loose throttle cable, so I tightened it. Apparently a bit too much. The other (quite hot) day it started to race again- I popped the hood and pressed hard on the throttle (body) and it instantly dropped to "normal idle". So my throttle was opening, Loosened the cable a touch and here we are. No more runaway throttle. No problem through winter, no problem in daily driving, but when it the truck got hot as described above, the throttle cable sheath must expand just enough to crack the throttle. *feeling rather stupid*
  5. The VG33E is a good motor, but not a powerful one. I'd just run it stock and enjoy the reliability - or trade out your truck for a VQ35DE year (2000+), the market really doesn't differentiate too much on price, and you get 80 more horsepower.
  6. Ran around town yesterday, and this morning and was absolutely fine. 4-5 separate short trips and not a single idle issue. I can do the idle re-learn but being that its only done this after EXTENDED idling with the AC going, I'm not convinced that's it. Almost seems like thermal expansion opening up...something.
  7. Hey guys, Having an issue. When idling or creeping for extended periods, my idle creeps up to 1500-2000RPM or more. Not an issue around town, or in normal day to day driving. Today on the way into an amusement park - we sat in traffic for a good 45 minutes to get into the park. Towards the end was trying to idle around 3000RPM in neutral and due to having to creep so much(in drive) I ended up overheating and causing a CEL w/a engine overheat code (250F ECT). Basically doing a brake stand for 45 minutes.... I'm guessing either a vacumn leak or a bad IACV....any ideas? 2001 VQ35DE 4AT 196k miles.
  8. I don't think there are many other major reliability issues besides SMOD. Nissan put out new radiators to fix this in...2010? So 2010-2012 is absolutely safe, and honestly, I wouldn't be too worried about picking up a 2005-2010 if its running/driving ok - just swap out the radiator as soon as you got it. Not all of them broke. Otherwise the transmission is very reliable, the transfer and engine are good AFAIK as well? We're actually in the market now....they are getting cheap.
  9. I ended up just installing a new shifter. Little Pricey - $25 at the JY (more than I thought it would be tbh) but works like a charm. I also threw in some new controls of a very very nice pathfinder that had taken a hit, mine were just a little faded/used. Again, more then then I thought though at $7.99 each. Damn junkyards are raising prices.
  10. Thanks for the P/Ns. Somebody had replaced the terminal on my truck and the fusible links are all sorts of barely hanging on/bent out of shape...I may just order then for piece of mind that mine wont snap off lol.
  11. Thank you! That was what I needed to see! Looks like 34950-5W000 is the right exact switch for my model (VQ35 A/4WD Fed Emissions 2001), but about the same price. Ouch. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-shift-lock-sole~34950-5w000.html?Make=Nissan&Model=Pathfinder&Year=2001&Submodel=&Filter=(1=W;3=USA;6=AT)&Location=auto-transmission-control-device,349_B003,34950M Guess I'll go try a junkyard one or four....
  12. Hey, thanks for the reply. I am pretty familiar with the whole setup, as I swapped a entire R50 console into my WD21 (with shifter!). I've already had the trim off as part of the diagnosis - you can see the solinoid start to actuate upon brake press, so I think my brake switch/wiring is ok. Being this is a DD for my GF, I am not interested in bypassing safety features at this time, so am just looking to replace.
  13. Hey guys, my shift interlock is going and its becoming a problem (GF Drives the truck). This is the solenoid that allows the shifter to move after the brake pedal is depressed. Especially when its cold out, you can hear it click/try but it doesn't actually completely move the blocking mechanism. Does anyone know the P/N of this? Is there an aftermarket replacement? Im not even finding the OEM part on Courtesy Nissan or Rockauto. I can certainly go pull one from a JY - but my understanding is this was somewhat common, and I'm not convinced a 200,000 mile JY one is going to be any better.
  14. Its all self contained, just like the clock. Simply connects to power and a air temp sensor in the front grill. Connector is like 6 wires. My 2001 had a TSB for being persistently 8F too low. I bought a new one out of a 2003 at the Junk Yard for about $8, and it fixed the low temperature display problem.
  15. I feel slightly less stupid now. I realized I only ever really drive it at night (its her car, so I drive it rarely), and the button is not lit (my bulb must be out). FYI We got 3-4 inches of snow today and the mirrors are definitely heated.

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