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Semperpathy

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1998 Nissan Pathfinder. 31 10.50x15- Pro Comp Xtreem All Terrain 15x8- Pro Comp Alloy Black OME Heavy duty Front, KYB GR2 Struts, OME Strut Spacer OME Medium Rears, OME Shocks
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    1998

Profile Information

  • Location
    Norfolk Virginia

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  1. It has been a while since I have been on here so here it goes. I need to change my brakes front and rear. Can anyone tell me what I will need? I know I need drums, rotors, pads and shoes. Do I need to change the bearings and races? If so which ones do I change? I am going to buy the stuff that I need through Rock Auto. Thanks for the help.
  2. I tracked down when my engine starts to run rough. This is how it goes. Drive to work which is normally a 15 minuet drive. Shut the vehicle off and go into the office. Go back outside 15-30 minuets later and start it up. Once the idle settles down after inital start up it starts to sputter. You can sit in the driver seat and watch the tach drop and hear the engine sputter. Put it in reverse or drive and it makes it even worse and eventually die if you let it. When you put more pull on the engine like turning on the lights and AC it really sputters. Then I can start to drive it and after 2-5 minuets of driving it will drive normally without skipping a beat. Shut the vehicle off and you go through the same issues again. So here is what I am asking. If it is the distributor going bad, when you shut it down does all of the engine heat warm up the distributor so it wont fire correctly. Then when you drive it does all the air coming off the fan cool it down enough to make it run normally. Just trying to figure it out. So long story short I have a 2-5 minuet window when the engine runs like crap.
  3. If the distributor is the problem. How do I test to make sure? Not wanting to change the wrong parts.
  4. This all started when I took of the rotor to see how bad it was. When I put it back on this is what I got. Any ideas. I put the inline fuel filter in. How hard is it to change out the distributor. Do you need to take off the front of the engine or can you do it without. How long of a ordeal will it be to take this off.\
  5. Yea but would that make the engine sputter. And why does it only do it when it is warmed up.
  6. Sorry guys should have what codes were coming up first. Dumb and Dumber moment
  7. It pulls up 3 codes p1444, p1447, p0325. I did clean the vapor canistor lines and replaced the canister. still no luck. I would not think that canister would do this. the lines were full with charcoal up to the vapor canister purge valve
  8. So here is the deal. When I start my pathy in the morning and drive to work everything is ok. When I get to work i shut the car off and go inside the office. I come outside 20 minuets later and start the pathfinder. I put it into reverse and this is where it craps the bed. The engine starts to idle really rough and starts to sputter. If you let it go long enough it will die. So does anyone have any ideas. I have changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned the mass air flow sensor, cleaned the throttle body. What else can I do? Please help me guys I am trying to get it running again. I forgot to add that I can drive the vehicle still. When you keep the rpms up it doesnt try to stall out.
  9. 180sx- thanks for the help. I will tear it apart and do it again. Are you in Portsmouth Va.
  10. When I did the suspension I added OME Heavy duty front springs, KYB struts, OEM upper strut mount, OEM strut bearing. I am hoping that I didnt put it together wrong but probably did. Crap. If so I will have to tear it down and buy new bearings and do it again. Anyone have pics of how it should look when completed. I know there is a notch on the mount that touches the spring. What direction should this notch be facing. Thanks for the help.
  11. I am haveing problems with my front suspension. When I am inside I turn the steering wheel left or right and I hear a clunk sound. I have my son get inside and look at the front springs and here is what I see. When you turn the steering wheel left the wheels go left and the spring starts to twist and then it pops into place. I am sure that everything is tight. Could this be the spring mount in the wrong location? Dont know that to do. Thanks for the help. If this is not clear enough (which it probably isnt) let me know and I will try to explain better.
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