Specv1973

I hear ya. I feel the same after that fiasco. I'm running 5w30 and whatever is on sale at the local parts store which I believe was Valvoline last time cause they were giving away a free filter with a 5 quart jug purchase.

That filter on the bottom of the pickup tube on the old unit looks like it was full of crud. Was it?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28223&st=0&p=533997&fromsearch=1entry533997

Did you check your ECU diagnostics? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 Check all the vacuum lines (especially the one in back of the intake manifold near the firewall the goes to the fuel regulator and the manifold), check the resistance on all your plug wires and make sure their pushed on all the way, and maybe pull the plugs and check them all for cracked isolators or fouling, etc. Just what I would do first.

I want one for water crossing. The distributor location sucks balls for water forging. 4x4's I've had in the past had coil packs/distibutorless ignitions and I could submerge the engine and keep going in my 4runner and my tacoma without any problems. But, they both had snorkels, raised diff and tranny vents, waterproofed floor pans, perfect door seals, dielectric grease on every electrical connection known to man, and aftermarket E-fans. The mechanical fan splashes water all over the distributor since it's so close, and will add engine load turning in water obviously, which you don't want near idle for obvious reasons (stalling while submerged, very bad). There's ways to seal the distributor or at least help it shed water, but it's not 100% fool proof, and at least getting rid of the splash will help. Overall 4x4 efficiency I think is the point here....... (also: my e-fans never came on in water and I only had auto thermos, probably cause the outside water always kept my engine cool while submerged.)

Also don't forget new inner and outer grease seals and to repack your bearings along with lubing the slide pins on the caliper etc. if you want to do a complete job. I also would get new pad retainers if they've never been changed. Can make the difference between a little squeak and no squeak sometimes after a complete brake job. Just my opinion.

I went with RayBesto's Professional Grade rotors all the way around and RayBesto's Service Grade semi-metallic all around. Only have about 1000 miles or so on them right now, but they stop way better, especially in the rain, than whatever was on it before and no problems overall yet. I got them from Rockauto.

Good luck man, and good for you for having the balls to try something new. There will always be critics unfortunately.

Ahhhh...the late 80's early 90's.....that was definitely a hot time for mini's if you were a teenager or in your early twenty's. There was also plenty of females to be had if you owned one. Every decade has had some sorta fad when it comes to customization of your ride man. Bass (the sound, not the fish) and mini's were "it" back then, along with the fox body 5.0 mustangs and Z28 TPI camaros, at least in South Florida. Some of the best memories back then of my life, cruising the beach and picking up chicks man.

Sayyy what? LOL...me and my G.E.D. do not compute your statements. I think in terms more like if you put it in this side, it comes out this other side. haha....

According to the B&M instruction sheet for my B&M Guage the "T"/sending unit should be on the return line "from the cooler". Here's the excerpt: (Note: This location is recommended to monitor the true transmission temperature going in, as well as checking the oil cooler efficiency.) http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Cooler-Accessories/Transmission-temperature-gauge-kit There's the link to the PDF manual. I don't think it really matters either way. You just want to know when your running hot. The return line will just be a little cooler, that's all. Then again, now thinking about it, if the cooler plugged up for some reason, the guage measures fluid temp and wouldn't tell you your hot, cause no fluid would be there running over the sender.....hmmmmm....I'm assuming that anyway. Crap, now I might have to move mine over to " before going into the cooler" line. ughh....

Yeah, I see what you mean. I did a little measuring, and I see your point. I don't really want to cut any of the metal either.

Nissan down here in Sunny SW Florida quoted me 600 plus parts when I was looking, but I'm so glad I did it myself. Wasn't nearly as hard or time consuming as I thought it would be, and I saved a BUNCH of moo la'.

Sideways? What? Must be a different cooler or something.....both of my lines are on top, but there is an order to flow, which is left to right. Yeah, I did have to trim the back/bottom of the plastic grille and also the radiator support slightly with a Dremel and some nippers. No big deal though, took like 5 min.