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About Panbacca

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular
  • Birthday 10/11/1978

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2003 SE, 4x4, Auto
  • Place of Residence
    Lincoln, NE
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Lincoln, NE
  • Country
    United States
  1. I purchased Duralast rotors and their Gold pads. Did not like the pads at all. The rotors are pretty much the same as any cheap rotor you'll get at any of those stores. Try Rockauto.com like adamzan mentioned, and look at the Centric brand rotors. Go for a set of those and some Akebono pads. Better yet, get actual Nissan parts from courtesyparts.com. Be prepared to grease your wheel bearings while you're changing your rotors as well. So pick up a few cans of brake cleaner, a tub of bearing grease, some latex gloves and a pair of snap-ring pliers.
  2. I use those exact filters. I actually had to modify part of the plastic on them to get them to fit, but it was simply a matter of using some wire snippers to cut off a little extra plastic. Nothing major, and only took about five minutes. Hard to say if they reduce odors though. My factory filters were filthy, and I didn't really notice much difference in smell when I put these in. BUT - I'm not saying I wouldn't recommend them.
  3. Thankfully, none of my parts were rusted. BUT - getting the lines off the old filter were a severe pain in the ass. Took me a while to get them off. Just lots of patience and twisting. Resting, then coming back to it. Seems like a lot of the maintenance takes me longer than it is supposed to as well, but that is the FIRST time. The second time you do something it is a breeze.
  4. Have you tried 4x4parts.com? https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/polyurethane-suspension-products-miscellaneous-suspension-products-c-435_377_127.html If not any of those, courtesyparts.com might have some. I haven't looked. As for size, I don't know. But I bet that the people at 4x4 parts would be able to answer your questions. Sorry, I only partially helped.
  5. I never thought about lithium grease on the roof rack sliders. I need to go do that now!
  6. Thanks for the suggestions... I've looked at all these options after you guys suggested them, but no luck. I pulled up the kick panel and the carpet last night as well. Got under the hood and started rattling lines around, pulled on suspension pieces, jumped up and down on my side steps. I can't get the stupid thing to reproduce the noise unless I'm driving. I am considering taking it into the dealer. I can live with rattles & creaks, but this tapping noise is taking it to another level.
  7. I have this persistent tapping/rattling noise coming from the passenger dash/door area. I thought it was IN the door, so I took the door panel & speaker off and started trying to rattle everything around in there... No luck. I couldn't get anything to make any noise. I have banged my fist around under the passenger dash area, and still haven't been able to get anything to rattle. But, inevitably when I start driving around, I can hear this damn tapping sound going over various bumps. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesn't. To me, it sounds like something metal hitting metal or hard plastic hitting metal. My Pathinfder has it's share of creaks here and there, but this particular noise is so obnoxious that I'm contemplating torching it. Anyone have anything similar? I can't pinpoint this noise.
  8. Just got my bar installed yesterday... It is absolutely fantastic. I can definitely notice a different feel in all aspects now while driving. It takes bumps better, it feels more "tight" just driving down the street. No more wobbling. I love it. I wasn't able to get my bolts off using a breaker bar & spray, so I had to take it to a shop to have them get their impact wrench on it. They only charged me $10 for the whole thing, and it took around 10 minutes for them to do. So I'm not out too much. This thing easily would have been worth $100 for me. $50 is a steal.
  9. Honestly, sticking with the OEM rotors is a good idea. But the ones listed above would be good options as well. For the rear drums, go with OEM all the way. For the brake shoes, pretty much anything will do. Courtesy parts has all the OEM brake stuff. I changed out my rear shoes and just kept the original drums (78k) because they were in fantastic shape.
  10. I ordered the 1/2" lift coil springs from 4x4parts.com... They should be here this Thursday, and will hopefully have time to install them this weekend. I just replaced the shocks so far... Not with the OME ones, but some Gabriels. (money was tight) The Gabriels seem fine so far. The factory Nissans were a little tired after 78k.
  11. This is coming from what I would do, given the situation, but if I had already considered selling it, I would, and just buy something different. But if your tune has changed and you kind of want to keep it another 100k miles, then get it fixed. I think that is a very reasonable price to do so. If it hasn't given you many problems to this point, it will probably continue to be reliable for you.
  12. I typically see anywhere from 13-16mpg in the city, depending on how I drive, my tire pressure, which gas I use and if I am using the heater or A/C. Everything seems to play a factor in it. The biggest thing that I noticed was not using any heat or air. But nature has to agree with me in order to do that. I have noticed a difference using nothing but premium gas for a few tanks. The premium here is 91 Octane, regular is 87, and mid is 89. I've run mid for a while, and decided to switch it up to the recommended premium for at least three tanks in a row. I saw a steady, although very slight, increase in mpg.
  13. Engine cover... huh. Guess that is why I didn't find it! At $141, yeah, maybe I will just look for something else, in particular what fleurys posted.

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