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My manual says 3500lbs for a standard and 5000lbs. for an auto if that helps,

Sorry but feel bad about stuff.

Sorry aboiut my opinion.

Sorry about my opinion. I should know better.

Had to edit. Sorry I didn't know your buddy had magic brakes. You have know idea about wirering do you?

O.K. I give up...good luck with no brakes..the bigger the boat the better!

Are you &^%*ing with me? You must be fskciing with me. You need controller brakes on your truck,.Puttuing a seven pin harness WILL NOT GIVE YOU ELECTRIC BRAKES ON YOUR TRAILER.

I vote for the 3.3. No the 3.0L gets my vote! Yes the 3.0 L

Memory wire...That's funny when you say you're not familiar with it.

Are you kidding? $500.

No they are not. Unless you have an electronic brake on your truck you have no use for a 7 pin harness just the four pin. Just like unless you have a trailer with electric brakes you have no use with the 7 pin harness without electronic brake on your truck.. Without the brake controller on your truck ALL YOU NEED IS THE FOUR PIN. WITHOUT BRAKES ON THE BOAT TRAILER ALL YOU NEED IS THE FOR PIN.

If you're looking for some info type "front cats" in the search area at the top of the page and check "all forums" There are 73 topics posted there. Might help.

To repete...have you looked under your truck? Torsion bars don't use spacers. Read Fleurys link above about "torsion bars".^^^ Front spacers are for the R50's with coils.

Have you even looked under your truck yet?

Not off hand the last one I had came with the truck, but I'd guess $150 would get you a good one. It's not something I'd cheap out on considering it's purpose. Wire harness would probably be under $50. They do sell them with a combination 4 and 7 blade connectors so you can also tow trailers without brakes and not have to use an adapter.

You'll need an electric brake controller on your truck first. The harness won't activate anything without one.

If you're looking for patch panels for the rear quarters look up Nor/Am Auto Body Parts. There're the only place I've found them.

4X4 Design.com or search "Fleurys". He should be easy enough to find. He's on here often and his lifts are "highly" rated. Edit...Fleurys lifts are for R50s not for torsion bar front ends if that's what you have.

You asked for an opinion...so if it it was ME I'd keep the whole thing. I still have the first car I ever owed, 1962 Plymouth Belvedere. I've saved a few others over the years as well.

I remember my first Pathfinder...took me about two months to find it, and just got it mobile again after it sitting for a year and a half! As for my current one I just put some new trail rash on it today. Gotta love that prickly ash. It's a kind of bush/tree covered with thorns we have around here for those that haven't run into it before.

If it's not the stock stereo make sure that they have connected both the power and acc. wires on the new one. You aren't getting constant power from the bat. if you have to reset things after the truck is shut off. Other than that... I have no further ideas. If that's your photo and you have to check wires under the dash, I think you'll fit under there better than most us around here.

Have you checked both fuses? There should be one that has power all the time and one that has power when the key is on. It sounds like you're missing the one that is hot all the time. Is it the factory stereo?

Nissan has manual-lock free-running hubs and auto-lock free-running hubs for the R50. Warns are a 15 min. job like Nova stated( I have these). The Nissan manual-locks have a crap load of parts to do the same thing as the Warns. The auto-locks(I replaced these) are as simple as the Warn hubs. So ya, which did you buy?

Do you know if it has the stock speakers or if they been changed or rewired?

Yes it was...you know I've enjoyed this thread.