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After 13 years took the extremely rusted out, poorly designed tube step rails of my 97 this past spring and love it without em. Unless you have a functional need for em...pregnant wife, small young children, etc....I'd say pitch em.

As stated they are indeed exact fit....for the simple reason as the OEMs were GR-2s themselves....if they weren't exact fit...someone got the wrong application....

hmm....I have noticed some heat coming from this area in my 97 SE OR MT...nothing that's a problem...least not yet. And I did notice that the boot has separated from the plastic console along the entire length of it on the rearward side of it. But I'm curious....the only OEM replacement that I can find includes the whole console set up at about $145....Is this the replacement part you are talking about? http://www.courtesyparts.com/96934-finisher-console-boot-pathfinder-r50-10/1995-09/1999-wfed-4wdcal-4wdmt-09/1999-01/2000-wp/4wdmt-p-201199.html?cPath=4700_4701_4876_4880& I suppose I could pull it apart and try to re-attach the boot to the console.... EDIT: Just realized the link above wasn't working...fixed it...anyone know the answer to above Q?

Skulptr..I have 97 SE OR ..same color....What front bumper guard is that?? I'm thinking to add one and really like the looks of that one. Also, what lights? thx.

Good thread. I had forgotten I had had this problem as it hasn't happened in a while. But I too had the problem ...and prob still do...with rear driver side door...the molding would come loose in the rear "corner" at about the height where the top of the seat is. It's been ok for a long time now though.

I have a '97 SE OR...ran 31" Mich LTX M/S's that had just a slight rub at full lock. After those for 9 years and 100K miles replaced a few weeks ago with Revo 2's that don't rub at all. Not all 31" tires have EXACT same measurements and a few 10ths of an inch in diameter or width could make the difference between a little rub and none at all. You can usually get exact specs from mfr sites...not always though. The Revo 31s are slightly smaller than the Mich LTX 31s. Have not done any lift or cutting at any point....yet...

Well I understand that at least the theory is that slots or drilled holes help dissipate gas and heat created in the braking process. The braking process converts kinetic energy of the vehicle's motion to thermal energy meaning heat transferred to the rotors. Dissipate the heat faster and improve braking performance. One reason why many rotors are vented in the center. Downside of drilled is potential to crack...downside of both is likely faster pad wear...and not totally sure but don't believe either can be turned....at least not easily or properly by most garages. I totally get you on the "system" approach to braking..there are many components to it working together. Being as my rubber lines are 13 years old I'm definitely going with braided lines...a suggestion for the OP to consider as well. I was thinking of sticking with OEM for rotors, pads, shoes, and maybe even drums. Any recommendations on pads? Hawk? I'm kind of committed to sticking with ceramic as my OEM pads have given me zero noise or dust...a big reason I'll probably stick with OEM pads too.

Curious to hear from you or tekazgtr as to why you went with the MD OME coils in the back instead of HD. Thx.

It's interesting to me that several folks in this thread have commented about dissatisfaction with R50 braking..yet when I recently started a thread intended to seek improved braking performance via slotted and/or drilled rotors many commented that they were either unnecessary or would not provide noticeable improvement. Just an interesting observation is all. IF the R50 braking is so bad...what can one do to improve it...other than a rear drum to disc swap. I'm going with plain old rotors but just find it hard to believe that slotted/drilled is all just for a fashion show. Anywho.... To the OP...in theory I would think that braking performance would degrade with increased tire diameter...all other things being equal. I mean...isn't the point of using larger diameter rotors to improve braking? By increasing rotor size with a given tire/wheel combo..one decreases the difference between rotor diameter and tire diameter to get better braking. Go the other way...and increase the diameter difference and that should decrease braking performance, no? Just another possibly weird way of looking at it. Now...at what point can one NOTICE or even MEASURE any of this to make the differences meaningfulwhen pressing that pedal next to the gas...well that's another question altogether I suppose.

already answered above.

Awesome post. I have this issue with the switch for one of my seat heater switches. How do you get that assembly out of the dash to begin with? Is it just thin screwdriver to the side and just wedge/pop it out? Thanks!

Congrats and thanks for sharing. Hope to see them on your rig when you have that. Are those the "Series 98" ones"? That's what I have my eye on if I decide to go with a second set of wheels. Just put Revo 2's on me original aluminum rims. Might run them year round or switch to a second set up for road use..something like Gen'l Grabber or Yoko Geolander HTS. What tires are you putting on?

Anyone have success with dealer doing a "free" replacement? I have the same seat belt problem. I'm aware of a TSB...but not of any broad formal recall or availability of any free replacement. Anything's possible I suppose if one asks the dealer. But being as they are stealerships....I'm sceptical and curious if anyone has had their's replaced free...and if so...any special tactics on how one "asks" for it from the dealer...ie. a recall I don't know about...or how to push back when they say no.

Actually it's a 4runner in an XE skin...

I can't even remember EVER changing one of these bulbs in 13 years...but interestingly the one that is out now on mine is passenger side.

At this point I'm leaning toward keeping it simple and stay with blanks. Being as I got 13 good years out of OEM rotors I'm debating between those at $272 or Brembo at $122. Might just go with OEM pads too being as I've had zero noise or dust out of them. Pretty well set on braided lines....MY1PATH nailed my thinking on those.

Thanks again. I'm not sure how to use them other than a just wedging/forcing the trim off...but I got a buddy who probably can help show me. Otherwise I'd probably just break the connectors or something.

Well actually slotted wouldn't be turned AT ALL because they CAN'T be turned...right? And you hit the nail on the head in terms of my thinking on the lines. I'm running 13 year old rubber ones and figure it's good preventive maint and likely braking benefits to spending the $100 to dump the old ones for stainless lines and be done with it for full remaining life of the vehicle. Also curious if anyone has input on rear drums/shoes...I mean is my situation typical with 13 years without servicing the drums/shoes? Given I'm going to put in stainless lines, new rotors/pads, flush...should I add another $50 for new shoes to help REALLY tighten up the whole braking system? I suspect the drums are still fine. Everything just passed inspection...cept the rotors....but I suspect the shoes gotta be getting thin after 13 years.

Thanks. Very helpful. But when you say tool shown below....didn't see a link or anything.??

'97 SE OR...one of the license plate bulbs in the back is out and I need to replace. It's the style with plate in the center (ie. NOT rear mounted spare). Seems like the only thing I can figure out is remove the one bolt in the diagram in this link and then pop off the inside door trim? Anybody know? http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-r50-1996-2004/genuine-nissan-parts/bodyback-door-rear-body/909-back-door-trimming/-c-4700_4701_4872_4875.html

Thanks for all the input guys. It's not that I just want drilled or slotted rotors at all... its that I want to make an informed decision. Let me elaborate. I am the original owner of this '97 SE and in the 140K miles I've driven it...as best my records and recollection indicate...I've had the front brakes done twice..once at 90K miles and again at 128K miles including turning the rotors both times. NEVER had the rear drum brakes serviced yet after 13 years and 140K miles. Rotors in front are original ones. So as you can tell and ironically I'm not very hard on brakes due to anticipatory driving style. And I'm not one to pull off perfectly good rotors to be a whore for performance...it's simply that mine are toast at 1.003" (or so the garage sez..I plan to verify) and it's time to replace so it's an opportunity to seek a performance bump if it makes sense. On the other hand...the OEM setup has stood me quite well so there's an argument that sez don't fix what ain't broke and go OEM rotors and pads and be done with it. Back to the slotted/drilled/blank question...I don't mind spending an extra $100 or so for say slotted and maybe compromise a few years of rotor life and somewhat reduced pad life even if that only gets me SLIGHTLY better performance given the rotors will likely last me 10 years give or take. But I also don't want to throw money away unnecessarily. Drilled are out for me...so it's between blanks and slotted....and while I hear you guys who are suggesting just stick with blanks....there's tons of people raving on tirerack about their slotted setup especially those who got the Hawk Performance Truck/SUV pads so that's kind of hard for me to conclude there's not much to that. And if you look at the reviews for the Hawk Truck/SUV pads it indicates what rotors people have and tons of people with light trucks and SUVs put slotted rotors on....were they all just that uninformed?? Am I overthinking all this? Maybe...but I did that with tires and glad I did. Revo 2's rock! Thanks again to all for your thoughts and opinions!

Well....if regular plain old rotors "will work just as good as slotted or cross drilled." then why do they put slotted or cross drilled in high end performance vehicles?? So all of that is just a scam? No performance gains whatsover? Seriously? According to the guys in this link....a cross drilled rotor set up led to dramatic braking improvement...together with metal matrix pads and stainless braided lines. Then again...they thought 4x4parts.com service was good so that should make one suspect right there. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/tabid/59/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/898/Project-Pathfinder-Brakes.aspx Anywho...thanks for the tip on the Akebono's and my master brake cylinder is doing well...so far.

Gotta be careful with that...you need to stay consistent and only use that setup with cross-drilled pads!

Appreciate the reply. If drilled or slotted rotors can't be turned...doesn't that significantly diminish their useful life? I mean... I had my front brakes done at least 2 if not 3 times in the 13 years and SOP is to turn the rotors. So I guess with drilled or slotted a brake job is just a pad replacement? On the other comments...with both drilled and slotted there seems to be no question that there are some performance gains to be had and that's the benefit I'm after. I'm just trying to be sure I know what I'm trading off (the "cost") for the anticipated benefits. "Need" is a very relative term!! Thanks again.

I know this is an old thread but I prefer not to recreate the wheel...pun intended. I am in need of new rotors on my '97 SE OR..no lift, new 31" Revo 2's...I am original owner and current rotors are orig ones. Despite all my best searching I cannot find much in the way of clear opinions (and facts would be even better) with regard to what type of rotor to get. For reference most of my driving is paved roads but I do some light offroading now and then ...lots of camping in summer and skiing in winter....and am seeking good performance. What I've been able to determine so far is that a few folks recommend avoiding drilled rotors due to 1) potential issues with cracking, and 2) cannot...or should not...turn them on a lathe. Alternatively there doesn't seem to be any dissenting opinions on slotted rotors. So here's my questions... 1) Should drilled rotors be avoided? even if they are cast? If so...why are they put on high performance vehicles costing 6 figures? 2) Can drilled rotors be turned when doing a brake job? 3) Can slotted rotors be turned when doing a brake job? At the moment I am thinking of Powerslot alloy cryo slotted rotors and Hawk Performance Ceramic pads..links are below. Thanks for any and all opinions, facts, thoughts.... http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Power+Slot&model=Power+Alloy+Cryo-Treated+Rotor&group=Power+Alloy+Cryo-Treated+Rotor&autoMake=Nissan&autoModel=Pathfinder+SE+4wd&autoYear=1997&autoModClar= http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Hawk&model=Performance+Ceramic+Pads&group=Performance+Ceramic+Pads&autoMake=Nissan&autoModel=Pathfinder+SE+4wd&autoYear=1997&autoModClar= Edit to add: Bonus Question: Are stainless braided brake lines worth bothering with? I don't mind dropping the $100 if I'll get at least some perf benefit..but no need throwing money away if that's what I'd be doing.