piste

no misfire...engine purrs like a kitty at ALL times temp is ALWAYS normal and steady need to check overflow bottle but doubt it starts right up like a champ EVERY time not sure on the hoses will need to check the plugs when time and weather permit But again to clarify...the coolant was NOT observed coming out the tail pipe. It was dripping from the muffler itself (NOT resonator). And because of the virgin white snow on the ground I was able to get an ideal read on the color..confirming to me short of chemical analysis that it WAS coolant. I'm very much with you on your thinking here. the one time nature of it is what's got me really perplexed as well. While I realize some conditions can be variable....it's very difficult for me to conceive a head gasket allowing all that coolant through and then somehow sealing itself up. I'm ignorant of all the paths and channels that coolant would take through a block, head, etc. What I don't know is.....Is there ANY other seal or gasket (OTHER THAN A HEAD GASKET) the failure or compromise of which would allow either coolant in either liquid or gaseous form into the exhaust? I got to thinking maybe some coolant is being vaporized into the exhaust system and then when the vehicle cooled it condensed out...then found the low point in the muffler..and blew/dripped itself out when I started the vehicle and the exhaust was pressurized a bit. I really wonder if the ambient weather played a factor here. It was extremely humid...first time in years the snow was so moist that it gave me trouble in the snowblower...big stretch I know but I'm stumped. I agree with you that it's highly unlikely to be a head gasket issue...given the meticulous care this Pathy has gotten from it's very first day on the road almost 14 years ago...combined with the reputation of the VG33 for NOT having head gasket issues....combined with the unusual diagnostic observations so far. But I don't have any other idea for how the coolant got there.

krmiller07, Thanks for all the valuable insights and suggestions...I clearly need to do some more diagnostics as well as continued observations over time..check current oil color/consistency, etc. Allow me to provide a very precise description. The profile of what I observed is very perplexing to me. As stated I took a trip in the Pathy to go skiing Sunday roughly a bit over an hour from my house. did not drive it at all Monday. Tues morning after clearing the 8 inches of snow from the driveway I started it and within a minute or so of starting moved the Pathy to the street. When I walked back to the driveway where the Pathy had sat for the few days I observed two distinct spots in the snow(two and only two spots) of a yellowish green liquid with a hint of fluorescence (NOT rust colored at all). Being as the spots were in the snow that fell the night before...I know the leakage happened upon or immediately after startup (ie. it was NOT a slow drip that happened over the two days). To roughly quantify an amount... I would say the "forward" spot was say 20 drops worth and the aft spot was maybe 10 drops worth. Both were more than a single drop or two and neither was like a "puddle's worth". Being as there were only the two spots and NOT a stream created upon moving the vehicle...I conclude the coolant "blew/leaked out" upon startup or shortly thereafter. I then measured the distance to the spots from the front tire imprint..measured the forward spot about 6 feet back and aft spot another 14 inches (muffler length) or so behind the first spot...both spots about a foot inboard from the passenger side. I went out to the street and translated those measurements to the underbody which brought me to the fore and after edges of the muffler. I saw liquid dripping from both the fore and aft edges of the muffler...and also interestingly from the axle as well interestingly...but believe stuff coming from the axle was just condensation....no colored spots on the ground below that. Ambient conditions were of VERY high humidity due to the storm. I was not smart enough to test the color of the liquid dripping from the vehicle at the time. My big questions are....Given the amount of what appears to be coolant that dripped from the muffler...How does THAT much coolant make it's way back (past y-pipes, cats, etc) to the muffler whilst sitting?? Because whilst the vehicle was running on the highway and at full operating temp I would thing anything leaking into the exhaust would vaporize right away. Could it have been coolant that had vaporized and then subsequently condensed and dripped out? What's also very unusual to me is that this morning on startup...ZERO signs of smoke/steam/condensate drip out the tail pipe...and zero drops of anything on the ground (can't crawl under to peak at the exhaust during the week in the suit and tie). It's not like a gasket or seal opens up for a while to allow that much liquid out and then closes itself up. Lastly, with respect to identifying the liquid...I was not able to collect a sample for chemical analysis....but it is virtually impossible IMO that what I saw in the snow was anything other than coolant....unless anyone knows of ANY other liquid in the vehicle at all that even closely resembles coolant..much less has the identical yellowish green fluorescent appearance!

Thx. I'm certain it is coolant...there can't possibly be anything else that looks the EXACT same color as coolant dripping from the muffler. My only outstanding questions at this point is could it have gotten there by something OTHER than a leaking head gasket? And also I need to "profile" it a bit more for frequency...extent of coolant loss, degree of smoke in the exhaust gases, etc. I'll also keep an eye on coolant level as you suggest. FWIW I had a coolant flush done about 6 months ago...but don't see how that would play into things one way or the other.

Just checked the FSM. There is NFW on god's green earth that I'd do the head gaskets myself. I won't even do a timing belt...which only gets ya started toward the head gaskets. Just not in a position in life to commit the time. A man's gotta know his limitations.....

No worries...you didn't come across rude at all. I don't see that it could be anything other than coolant..but will do the sniff test if I see it again. I was actually surprised how much it looked exactly like coolant...it had the color as if one had poured coolant straight onto the ground...would have thought it'd pick up a rusty tinge in its travels. Was also interesting to me that it dripped from the front and rear edges of the muffler and only there. I get condensate out the tail pipe..who doesn't? and will test that for color next time I can get to it.

FWIW...though I think my problem was a bit different than yours...I chased a clutch hydraulic pressure loss issue for the last three years....chronicled elsewhere in the forum. Never found evidence of where a leak was happening. Replaced master and slave...twice. Also the rubber line out near the slave. All temporary fixes...Replaced the damper and seems to have been the fix...time will tell for sure. Point being...I'll forever be suspect of dampers.

Ahh...not familiar with the concept of "rust water". I presume it would be brown...ish? I did not smell it....What I DO know is the color of glycol coolant and that's exactly the color I saw under the vehicle. Primarily yellow with a hint of green. Thanks.

What do you mean by "assuming the worst"? I mean...I definitely saw coolant on the ground and it dripped from the muffler after the car sat for two days. I mean...are you saying coolant in the exhaust be a result of leakage somewhere other than the head gasket? ie. some other gasket or seal? Curious as to how "involved" is a pressure test? Thanks!

Sorry but don't understand the question.....

Interesting....I tried this..www.repairpal.com/estimator and came out with an estimate of between $1,900 and $2,400 with all of it labor except about $300 or so. How can it be that much? I thought you could do an entire engine rebuild for less than that. FWIW the color of the leaking fluid looked like pure coolant (ie. did not appear to be contaiminated with anything else like oil or anything. Also, it was a very small amount and appeared to drip from the front and rear edges of the muffler. And also I took the same trip skiing yesterday...then started her up this morning and didn't see a single drop of anything on the ground. So wondering if what appears to be an infrequent and relatively small amount of coolant getting into the exhaust is anything to worry about? At least not until it becomes anything greater than that!!? Not seeing any unusual amounts of smoke in the exhaust nor any other problems that I know of. I'll have to keep an eye on the exhaust though...I do get some "whiteness" on startup but I don't know that it's "smoke" per se....always just thought it was normal for winter time. I'm a driveway mechanic and confidant to do many things on my own but I put replacing head gaskets in the "open heart surgery" category of repairs that is not for the faint of heart. It's also a matter of consuming my time. What tools did you have to acquire? I have quite a bit of tools already and have done quite a bit of things like suspension work, brakes, rebuilt the front end of my old Bronco, replaced various bushings..steering rack, rear trailing arms, sway bars...etc. I have the FSM...any other resources or references you could point me to? Another question...Whether I do the job or not...If one has to replace head gaskets what other things should be replaced/done along the way? Timing belt/water pump/Tstat? (EDIT - never mind on the Tbelt question...just learned it has to come off to do the head gasket) And should I replace all the gaskets in a kit like this whilst I have it apart? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/Pathfinder/Beck_Arnley/Cylinder_Head_Gasket/1997/SE/6_Cyl_3-dot-3L/032-2892.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain&intcmpid=

Here's the story...'97 SE OR Manual with about 150K miles.....am original owner and gave it meticulous maint since day one. Took it to the local ski mountain on Sunday...about an hour and 15 minutes away mostly highway. Didn't move it all day Monday and we got snow Mon night such that it created a thin layer of blown snow under the Pathy. Started it up this morning (Tues) and after moving it I noticed some yellowish green liquid in the snow...def looks like coolant. It was only a few drops in two places..did not see any "stream" of drips from moving it etc. So seems like what came out was the result of what accumulated in the exhaust over 48 hrs or so. The front tires left a mark on the ground so I measured off of that to the coolant and then took those measurements under the pathy and it looks like it's leaking from the front and rear of the muffler(not the resonator). There was only a little bit of coolant..and after letting it sit some more and then starting up again and letting it run didn't see ANY more. So I'm guessing this is the beginning of a head gasket leak? Would be a shame as I just decided this year to stick it out with the Pathy for many more years. Any rough estimates on what a head gasket job runs for $$$? Any chance I don't have a boatload to worry about?

Come out with a line of V-Twin motorcyles....oh, and make a deal with Sports Illustrated for a four page layout in the swimsuit issue combining Nissan vehicles and Swimsuit models....

If you are new to dealing with them...providing confusing, if not outright misleading or incorrect, information (along with horrendous service) all seems to be part of their corporate mission statement and culture. You can find threads in this forum going back 6 years and then some... substantiating this. They need some/more competitors.

Agreed. I would presume (strongly) that any stated lift amount of any spring assumes stock vehicle weight....otherwise there'd be no way to compare or plan for any given amount of lift on any vehicle with any spring. Now of course a vehicle weight that is different than stock will result in a variance in realized lift. And matters seem to be complicated by distributors misquoting actual designed lift amounts.

Ok. Well just tell them to put all that in writing...so in case you can't get to the cleaning for a while and you are in a serious accident resulting in injuries exacerbated by a loose shoulder belt....you will know where to send your lawyers!! Not wishing you any ill well whatsoever...just trying to help your cause with a less than helpful dealer.

Unless it has a real solid infrastructure (ie. not too much rust, the tranny is actually in good shape, etc) and with that amt of miles on it.... I'd sell it for whatever you can get and start with something new. For $2K over 4 years...less what you get for selling it now.. you got your money's worth. OTOH..buying used is always a risk. IMO..THE BEST strategy to minimize vehicle cost in the long run...is buy new and maintain it well from the beginning. Good luck. BTW...if indeed has ALL the problems you touch on ...including tranny, CV, timing belt, bushings, etc..PLUS doing what's likely been regular neglected maint such as tune, fluid changes, etc..you could be looking at anywhere from $2,000 to $4,000..give or take.... in repairs/maint...depending on many factors ...whether your hubby can do all the labor..etc etc.

Curious as to folks thoughts on this. Reason I ask is...I'm orig owner of my 97 SE and have been very good with maint since day one..much of it at the dealer . Recently went to a new local garage for the first time ...guy running it has an excellent reputation. Told him to do a tune...and he replaced the 13 year old wires, cap and rotor. The FSM actually has NO service schedule whatsoever for these items...implying run them til they fail? Now I understand as a practical matter that all three of these are items should be replaced from time to time. So curious why the FSM doesn't state that. And more importantly, interested in folks recommendations for service interval replacements for wires, cap, and rotor.

I vote OME for two reasons. They are reputed to be a good setup. and AC is one of the crappiest businesses I've ever dealt with for anything...automotive or otherwise.... over the past 5 decades of life. Their service blows...they provide false information about products...they charge your credit card and then ship your order many weeks later..and have a total crap attitude toward customers. We need more vendors out there for our Pathys.

Hunh...well here's how I understood things...perhaps incorrectly. The OME front coils all state 0.5" lift. But the LD, MD, and HD all have different load ratings. To me this means that no matter which of these coils you put say on a stock vehicle you would see 0.5" of lift and that the higher load capacities of MD and HD were achieved via "stiffer" springs...as opposed to being achieved by taller springs. Maybe I should just call Rugged Rocks to clear this up.

Looks like you have a 2001....If your seat belt does not immediately and fully retract by your simply unbuckling it....then it is covered...for life of the vehicle. Think about it this way...if it doesn't do that...then when you buckle up there is a chance the shoulder strap won't snug up close to you and therefore won't function properly in an accident. They should fix it without any question or hassle..but seems hassle is all you are getting from them. Call the Nissan number....that dealer is totally full of it...You should not have to clean it to keep it working properly....unless they can show you where that is the maintenance schedule... good luck.

I'm confused...is it "obviously give you more lift" with the HDs? Or "same amount of lift"??

Once again thanks for taking all the time to share your experiences. I believe I stand corrected on the issue of various sizes of OME coils in terms of lift. Interestingly Rugged Rocks just updated there OME page for the PAthy in the last week or so...now showing pretty much just 0.5 inch lift. Apologies to anyone if I passed on bad info based on the all the various and often conflicting info on the websites. For example many have stated lift of 0.5" (which by the way I do not in ANY way consider HALF an INCH to be called a "lift"...I mean really?)...but even AC s listing for the HD says they are 0.5 inch but it might be more than that if you don't have aftermarket heavy gear up front. I'm actually not seeking ANY lift at all...but don't mind an inch or half inch or so. But I definitely don't want to risk having a front higher than the rear with a setup of HD up front and MD out back. I'm looking forward to that added load capacity in the back....the stock has been pathetic since day one. BTW..what did you use for bump stops? One of my originals is broken off and sitting in the bottom of the spring well in back. I think I have to drill out the bolt for it up top if I stick with OEM. Anyone try the AC ones which I understand sit in the bottom by design? Or other recommendations?

Post #14 of this thread should answer any questions as to what is and is not covered. But to answer directly...Are your rear belts failing to function in some way? if they are failiing in some way and all other criteria of the warranty are met..then yeah, they are covered.

Thanks...unfortunately I have the "Black Sheep" edition Pathfinder...97 SE...so no such thing as aftermarket parts. Nothing in that link for my Pathy.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Have you tried the HD yourself or are you basing your recommendation against them ...e.g. "harsh ride"...on what you've heard from others and/or read (not to say that's not valid)? The reason I ask is....my Pathy is so floaty a ride now it's hard for me to imagine it's ride getting too harsh due to springs alone. The MD might indeed be the best way to go for me to stiffen up the ride without going too far down that road. Most likely I'll be adding a skid in the future but that's about it. Lastly, it's my understanding that the LD, MD and HD ALL are available in half inch lift which is what I'd go with.....but maybe what's listed isn't reality and the half inch MD actually have slightly less lift than the half inch HD??