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*Updated: 01/17/2022 6:54PM PST


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Everything posted by silverton

  1. I tried the quick shift from D to R a couple times and got nothing. It'll have to be til next friday when I can buy some of the lucas product. I just recently started working again and that's when I get my first paycheck.
  2. I also missed this. but don't have a locker, so probably a good idea I didn't go. hah!
  3. I have noticed my truck does the same thing. the fuel gauge still works fine though. there is some sort of resistor pack on the backside of the cluster from what I've read, but since the fuel gauge still works fine I don't think it would be that. The needle climbs a little higher than usual, MAYBE 1/4 of the way up when I'm pulling hard up a hill, but usually just hangs out just above the beginning of the "normal" mark. Also, the air coming through the vents isn't exactly HOT, but it's not really cold either. It's almost like it's just lacking a thermostat. Which could be the case really, most newer thermostats have a "failsafe" where they will freeze open, instead of closed like back in the day. One of the things I'll change out on my upcoming timing belt change.
  4. Thanks, I will try this. Just need it to last long enough for me to be able to save up funds to rebuild my other cars engine, and then I'll focus on repairing the pathy.
  5. I already drained the transmission and refilled. but I may have put in a half quart extra. it basically filled my 5 quart drain pan so I put 5 quarts back into it. When I put the shifter in R the truck acts like it's going to actually do it. The engine rpm raises to compensate for being put into a gear. When I give it some gas, it does nothing but free rev like it's in neutral. I will try the D to R quickly just to see if anything happens...
  6. Long shot, as I've read reverse is sometimes the first gear to go. BUT, is there any hope I can cling to that there is hope that it can be fixed without replacing, or removing the transmission from the truck? All the forward gears work, and beautifully at that, you wouldn't even know the transmission had a problem if you never had to back the thing up. So, I'm just curious if there is a solenoid or a valve body that can be replaced by just removing the pan...
  7. Read about that in the owners manual, but don't see anything like that on mine, I'll have to take a closer look I suppose.
  8. I was wrong earlier in my post. the center belt metal clip goes on the outside one of the passenger seat. but yeah, my aunt tried buckling her seatbelt with it attached to the holder and I was like "whoa whoa whoa, lemme help you with that" haha.
  9. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQPathfinderQQReplacementQQFog_LightQQ19871995QQ767.html You're better off doing this though: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1680
  10. the center seat belt clip uses the inner one on the passenger side. quirky feature, but I think it's neat!
  11. the VG30i should only run one O2 sensor, and as far as I know, is needed for the computer to properly administer the proper fuel mixture. if you're only getting 8mpg, you have other big issues that should be fixed and not covered with a band-aid.
  12. Extremely late notice, but didn't think about it til just now. But there is a huge meet going on at the XXX in Issaquah today at noon, should go on til dark I'm sure. So, if any of you locals aren't doing anything you should stop in!
  13. I plan on doing this in the near future. Here is a comparison to a DOT sealed beam lamp. and an E-spec H4 housing made by "carello" Clearly, the E spec one is on the left, and the USDM DOT one is on the right. You can see the beam is more spread, but also has that crisp cut-off line. If I can find the parts at pull-a-part I want to do the hardbody grill/headlamp swap so I can use my espec H4 housings that I kept from my old supra. If I had taken that pic when it was darker out you'd be able to see the light pollution above AND below the DOT light, but nothing above the e-spec one.
  14. have you replaced the cap and rotor? check for moisture on the inside of it.
  15. If you couldn't keep up with N/A cars in a boosted one, you'll need to reevaluate some things.
  16. truck is gonna smell like smoke for ages. glad you and your truck are still with us!
  17. Lately, I have been noticing a grinding noise coming from my front passenger hub. only after the truck is warmed up and only from a stop. It's almost like brakes are grinding but I know it isn't that, as i just replaced the pads and the rotors have no metal-on-metal wear. Basically the truck lurches forward with a nasty grinding noise and then rolls just fine. Is there any way to take the hub off to see what the deal is, and would it be safe to drive the truck without the hubs in? this is my first 4x4 so I'm a bit of a noob. I notice there are bolts holding the hub on, but I don't know what all is involved in one. Sorry for the thread jack!
  18. https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/rock-sliders-powder-coated-black-p-1788.html basically running boards, without the board.
  19. when it does that, have you tried turning the wheel a little bit? the steering wheel lock seems to also keep the key from turning if the wheel isn't wiggled a little.
  20. if you're close to the border, check out oregon's craigslist as well. But I wouldn't want that due to the rust, even if the rest of it is clean.
  21. the 90-95 pathfinders is 15*. But I believe the 86.5-89 pathfinders is 10*. So, I would say anywhere between 10 and 15 would be golden. And I also don't think that these engines respond too well to increased timing. Just leave it at the factory setting and it'll be happy.
  22. I think with interference motors it is almost a guarantee that you bent valves. but who knows, maybe you got lucky. pretty sure the only way to tell is to take the heads off, or to replace the belt and see if it fires.
  23. this is why i want to keep mine auto, living in the heart of seattle and all.
  24. I would also drop by and give a hand if I lived closer!

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