silverton

By the grace of whoever, I have a Sunday off without requesting it! I will be there for sure! Where you going to get dirty beavis?

Are the connectors for both parts the same? I noticed mine is different than both 93's I have found in the yard. Have you tried comparing factory part numbers?

aren't the R50's just glorified station wagons? wd21's are where it's at.

When a fuseable link goes "bad", there should be a noticeable change in the color of the coating.

I like the original one by DJ Steve Porter the best, he has some awesome remixes. check his channels out: http://www.youtube.com/user/djsteveporter http://www.youtube.com/user/Tronovitch

done. but won't have funds until friday if that's cool.

alarm computer for a 95. Must have the white pinned connector with the female'd square end. not the circuit board type. also need the nuts for it. thanks!

HAH! I was wondering where that fuse was, I knew it had to be somewhere... thanks!

check voltage at the wires that plug into the foglight itself with the foglight switch on and powered. You should get close to battery voltage. From the sounds of it, you're having the same problem I am. Seems odd to me that you could have proper voltage at the wires, but no output from the lights.

I was thinking it was this easy, but wasn't so sure! Nice job with modifying the stock hub cover, looks stock!!

i know this may sound weird... with a voltage tester I have 12V at the wiring for the foglights, and with a known good bulb, they still don't come on. Doesn't make sense to me.

Yeah, I bet she did... bahaha

**some funny comment about being a dad at 9am and posting an hour and fifteen minutes later** congrats man!

the blinker and tail/stop lights are different bulbs.

If most of your driving is in the city, I would suggest aluminum wheels as they weigh less. less rotational mass means more mpg's! always important when dealing with city driven vehicles.

to replace a valve, you need to find which one it is and pull that head.

sounds legit to me! hah!

I just started working so I haven't any money to buy anything, begging parents/aunt for gas money just to get to and from work. Yeah, that is why I'm weary about it, but I'll probably have to bite the bullet and do it.

Since I bought it almost three weeks ago I haven't gotten into a position where I couldn't get out. parking situations at home and at work are pretty easy. Today, just messing around, I was cruising down a street doing 35 and thought I'd see what putting it in R would do while moving forward. There were definitely some noises from the transmission but nothing too exciting happened. There are a couple transmissions on craigslist right now, I called on one and dude wanted 350 for it, TC attached as well, but it's already pulled and all he said was "ran good while it was still in the truck". I've dealt with too many shady people on CL....

Pretty sure the needle should read 0 if the engine is not running. But as far as I know, the tach gets its signal from the igniter, but i'd let others chime in before you start throwing parts at it.

I did. even with a quick swift movement to R, once the stick hit N it was out of gear and stayed out.

I wouldn't say it runs more efficient, but when it never hits "operating" temp, the engine stays in closed loop and always thinks it's cold so dumps in extra fuel to compensate.

I tried the quick shift from D to R a couple times and got nothing. It'll have to be til next friday when I can buy some of the lucas product. I just recently started working again and that's when I get my first paycheck.

I also missed this. but don't have a locker, so probably a good idea I didn't go. hah!

I have noticed my truck does the same thing. the fuel gauge still works fine though. there is some sort of resistor pack on the backside of the cluster from what I've read, but since the fuel gauge still works fine I don't think it would be that. The needle climbs a little higher than usual, MAYBE 1/4 of the way up when I'm pulling hard up a hill, but usually just hangs out just above the beginning of the "normal" mark. Also, the air coming through the vents isn't exactly HOT, but it's not really cold either. It's almost like it's just lacking a thermostat. Which could be the case really, most newer thermostats have a "failsafe" where they will freeze open, instead of closed like back in the day. One of the things I'll change out on my upcoming timing belt change.