silverton

Scary. At least you knew how to deal with the situation though!

Then I guess things are not "all good" haha. When I do the timing set I'll have to see what kind of condition the thermostat is in.

When removing an engine, I have always found it easier to pull the engine and transmission together. mainly because it's sooo much easier to mate the transmission to the engine with them both sitting on the ground.

Sorry for starting a new thread if this had already been covered, I did do some searching and found some stuff, but have another question. I know the fuel gauge and temp gauge have a resistor pack on the backside of the cluster. Basically, what I want to know, is if one works, will the other work just fine? My fuel gauge works perfect, but my coolant gauge barely climbs, even when under load on a freeway hill. I don't have an infrared temp gun to check the inlet/outlet temps on the radiator.

That seems like it would be rather inconvenient to have to get out, pull apart the air box and have the cap handy to protect the added hole. All I did with my truck is remove the intake silencers, basically the extra tubing. I realize I may have made the point of air intake lower, but I don't plan on any deep water travel, and I noticed slight throttle response, a noticeable growl from the intake, the lowest point of the airbox is basically at the top of the tire, which by then water is already getting inside the truck...

the per channel wattage doesn't matter. the voltage that the deck is putting out the pre outs for amps is what you need to know.

it's nothing to do with the amp itself. Each deck has it's own pre out voltage and you need to match your amps gain, to what the deck is putting out. It should be listed in the owners manual, or the internet...

You are clearly new with audio. And I don't mean this offensively, as I just literally tuned my first amp today, but I was doing it with the guidance of an audio specialist. You want the gain to be at the same voltage as your pre outs. So you need to figure that out and adjust accordingly. You also don't want to have your bass boost ALL the way, I would suggest an extra decibal or two. Adjusting the deck settings is much easier. Again, I hope this helps.

your low pass filter should not be set higher than 90. basically, figure out your travel, you want to turn it a third of the full range of your knob. You also want to set your filter selector to LOW, that means it will be using the low pass. I'm going to say that your amp is going into protect mode because it's trying to make the subs operate in a range that they were not meant to be, and it's going into protect mode to save your subs. I think your issue is in your low pass knob and the selector. I hope this helps.

Checking engine codes is from the ECU. I'm also curious as to how to check ABS codes, my light is on and I would figure out how to fix whatever is wrong without throwing money at it.

My temp needle usually sits right above the cold mark, it will climb to about quarter under heavy load, up a hill on the freeway. My heat doesn't seem quite HOT either, but I get 20mpg pretty steady with mixed driving, and I don't have a light foot either. When I do the timing set soon, I will also be replacing the thermostat, I have a hunch that it is stuck open.

Didn't try hard enough than. search for vg33 swap or something like that.

It's unsafe to put real HID's into the pathfinder without retrofitting an HID housing. The stock headlight housing does not have the proper cut off line that is needed.

Nah, I'm kidding. I still cut myself all the time..

Noob...

It would probably work for the ka24 equipped pathfinders... dunno how well a turbo setup would fit under the hood, but i4's aren't all that big

hah, yes, this is to be applied to the alarm module after you reprogram it. But I knew before looking at that PDF. I've been staring at one that size in my truck for awhile. The module I picked up doesn't work for my truck, so it's just been floating around inside...

Those are the late 80s GL. boxer 4, MAYBE 20mpg... and gutless. ran almost 4k rpms on the freeway at 60mph... I got the privilege to put-put around in one for a month or two.

3.7? That seems awefully low. Well, I guess the early mk2 supra's had 3.73's in the early years. the final year, 1985, had 4.10's in the autos, and 4.30's in the 5spd. The 5spd had some GET up and GOOO, haha.

My 95 developed a leak, same location as yours, at first I thought rear main, but I had to reuse my old oil filter when I changed the oil, was in a bind and didn't have much of a choice. But then all of a sudden, the leak stopped. And to be honest, I'm used to working on cars, and love working on the pathfinder, it is so much easier to me! Don't have to jack it up or put it on ramps for most things, hondas don't count as real cars though... lol!

Right, the gearing in the pathfinder allow for a rather speedy acceleration, but pretty gutless once out of the power band. I think the vg30e in the trucks make peak torque at 2800 rpms? That's pretty low, but perfect for getting through some nasty terrain! Today I went exploring a new (to me) trail area and the entrance/exit was a steep hill, on the way out I had it in 4LO and in 1st gear, I wasn't able to pick up enough speed to even register on the speedometer. Speaking of that, what are the ratios for the HI and LO setting on the transfer case? I tried a search, but mostly POHO threads come up. Oh, and most cars don't come with a hitch, including my pathfinder, but that doesn't mean much.

It would be unique. Make your truck more, yours. And I think it would be pretty badass! The feeling of power, is all about the gearing. The z31 was built as a sports car, and the wd21 was built as a suv. And the cams put the peak power at different, possibly stronger, points in the rpm band. Therefore making higher/lower hp numbers, even with the same block, crank, rods, and pistons...

+1 @ nunya Then use the left over cash to buy other things...

haha, cool find! Looks well taken care of too.

depends on if you want it on switch power or not, if not then the plug would have power all the time. you would need a fuse in the wiring. and I'd say the back is a good place for one, I know a lot of newer SUV's have outlets like this back there, not exactly sure where it would be mounted, but there is no set place to put it.