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Everything posted by silverton

  1. I put felpro cam seals on a subaru engine and they leaked real good. I should have known better as I was able to install them by hand. never use felpro. they are dubbed FAILpro for a reason. even if you've had good experience with them so far, don't use them. it's never a problem, til it is. it will fail on you and when it's something as critical and time consuming as a cam seal... don't cheap out. get nissan seals. ideally, you need a new timing belt too. oil on the belt will drastically lower its lifespan. You saved $5-10 on that seal, but now you have to spend all those labor hours and buy more new parts. do it right or do it twice. I personally am a fan of Victor-Reinz, Stone, and Mahle. All three are basically the same and there was a recent merger between two of them. I am sad nissan doesn't have a nifty factory parts site like subaru. well i guess it kind of is, but it's more difficult to search for parts without already knowing the part number. I found this to be the OE part number from Nissan 13042-0B001 https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/89395223/13042-0B001.html $7.69 VICTOR REINZ 815324400 $3.74 (current RA price) MAHLE 66864 $5.61 (current RA price) FEL-PRO TCS45635 $4.01 (current RA price) of those four. I'd buy OE, peace of mind is worth $10. Sorry, I'll hop off my soapbox now ;D
  2. I checked around and came up empty handed for NOS. This is the part number I was able to find for your particular years sending unit. 25060-41G02 You might have some luck using car-part.com. I'd recommend west coast junk yards for least amount of rust.
  3. Oh yeah, don't do much with it any more though, gotta charge the battery every time it needs to be moved. Rotting away in the driveway.
  4. Since you have two or three threads all about the same problem, the one true fix is replacing the WD21 transmission, with a 3.3L (W)D22 transmission. They can be had for about $500. direct swap, plug and play nothing to mess about with every thing plugs in bolts on. I've owned two 95 automatics. one had 170k one had 180k and both had already been long without reverse in the transmission. It's like the toyota 7M-G(T)E head gaskets. It's not if, it's when, and there is nothing to fix it but to replace it with an upgraded unit.
  5. That's badass! I want one!
  6. The power that is delivered to the headlights is passed through the switch.
  7. The picture of that part is not the type of sensor that would be used for running your speedometer if that's your concern. What you linked looks like a revolution sensor, but... it is detecting the SPEED of the revolution so that's why it's named as such.
  8. both headlight bulbs don't generally go out at the same time either, but it's still something I'd check first.
  9. When I was 18 and wanted my first bank account, I jotted my social too sloppy i guess. lady told me there was some weird @!*% on my credit history and they couldn't open an account for me. I left in a stupor like what? She called me like 15 minutes later profusely apologizing that she'd read it wrong.
  10. The torque converter is the pump. I recommend replacing any WD21 transmission that seems to have transmission issues with one from a VG33E or ER equipped frontier or xterra. It's the "fixed right first time" way to go.
  11. You need a transmission. The updated version in the Xterra does not have the issue the Pathfinder one does, and it's a plug-n-play replacement.
  12. OE cats can be worth $1500 today, they could be 25 years old, they hold value and most places require zero documentation of how you obtained it, and batteries are good for $20 as a core! With reverse being the most common failure point in these transmissions, my take is you need a transmission, and you're just in the range of them failing. 160-180k is normal, if you're lucky you get just over 200k. Since your wd21 is OBD1 you have enough exhaust after your O2 sensor that it's likely not effecting how it's running, unless you've noticed a drastic dip in gas mileage, even with no cat and most of the exhaust you should still get what you used to, within reasonable error +/- 1 or 2.
  13. Can you share a picture? I've also done a starter replacement or two and don't remember any kind of gasket or shim
  14. With the engine being timed and you not knowing where the pistons are, I advise against forcing a valve open. I would use some sort of screw driver or something long and metal to pin point the noise before taking a cover off. Those numbers work out to 6.25% difference high to low, piston rings, head gasket, and valves are sealing plenty fine. You may try adam's suggestion of running some sort of engine cleaner through it, do a couple short interval oil changes if you go that route. Other wise take all the lifters out and give them a nice cleaning and an oil bath before putting them back in. My swapped vg33 makes a horrible clacking noise on cold start but goes away pretty quick. I'm also one of those people that doesn't put many miles on it, last oil change was in 2018, but it's been driven less than a thousand miles in that time. These VG's are quite indestructible.
  15. 1) I don't think there is a coolant passage in the intake manifold but it has been many moons since I had one off and could be wrong. 2) Use a stethoscope to hear if the injector is clicking. No clicks, stuck open/closed and you have other problems. 3) compression check it. this may not answer #4, but a leak down test would for certain. 4) oil and coolant would likely be mixing and that would be noticeable in the radiator. 5) replace it if true. 6) get this taken care of ASAP, any kind of fluid leak is bad 7) this could be why you have a strong fuel smell as the old fuel is not burning completely.
  16. bump from the grave, 16 years. daaaamn. okay. Depending on what has happened with the audio system in your truck, the tweeters may not work. The factory stereo did not have an amp. The amp was separate, and had a built in cross over for the tweeters. If that amp was bypassed for an aftermarket stereo install, the tweeters wont work.
  17. Sounds way too fast to be the bottom end. Those numbers are passable. You do not want more than 10% of a difference between the highest and lowest numbers. 150 to 165 is 9.5% so it's almost there. Even so, you won't notice much of a hit to performance or gas mileage. Once the battery is charged retest #4 and you may find it pump to 155 or 160. So far as I can see/hear, your bottom end is healthy but that top end has a nasty lifter tick. A mechanics stethoscope, or a long screw driver, could help you pinpoint which head you need to remove.
  18. You'll only run in to problems if you drive in puddles that would submerge the differential. the breather line is meant to keep water out and foreign objects out. I know on the WD21's it's a rubber vacuum line. buy some bulk and hook it back up.
  19. Damn no @!*%! I have replaced everything other than the body harness to try and fix my intermittent no crank. Sometimes I can jump it and it starts right up, other times, click click click. It helps if I bump a window down while cranking. The new starter I put on had another lead coming off of it, so I have a wire tied up in my positive loom at the battery for starting when I need to. Been too lazy to run a push button starter in to the cab, but this relay sounds right up my alley!
  20. The R50 is quite the different truck compared to a WD21.
  21. Since it only happens once warm, I'd look in to the O2 sensor or the coolant temp sensor. There is a test mode on the ECM for O2 sensor response. You can find a description online somewhere but the jist is once in the mode the two LED's should blink together, and do it rather rapidly. faster than you can click a bic pen. If it's slower than you can click, or the LEDs are not in sync, replace the O2 sensor. have you inspected the wiring for the knock sensor? Not usually something to cause a symptom like you're describing and OBD1 can be aggravatingly fuzzy when setting a code. It'll set the knock sensor but it'll be because the air flow sensor isn't reading right and causing the mixture to be off or some such BS.
  22. when you exceed 80% duty cycle, you need bigger injectors. running them so close to 100% is begging them to fail.
  23. Heck yeah! Who needs to run the vehicle in a closed garage when you can just remove the rear window and gas yourself out on your commute!
  24. Someone did do that with a two door. Looks pretty cool. I can't find it for the life of me, but I know he was in the PacNW.
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