Chymos

I was here a few years ago, unfortunately life conspired against me, now I'm back! This time with a '93 SE automatic 4wd in need of help with rust...

From what I've seen in the news, it was a '93, and the video clips I've seen of the wrecker hauling it off, it has the stock XE chrome steelies

Left side while sitting in the vehicle.

The 4wd D21 hardbody and all WD21s (both 2wd and 4wd) use an identical frame and drivetrain with the exception of the rear suspension. The pickups use leaf springs in the rear while (as we all know) Pathys use a multi-link setup.

You shouldn't need a press. Just a small section of a 2x4 board and a hammer. As for snap-ring pliers, they're not too expensive (even if you get Craftsman ones). If it's 2wd, you'll need a special socket (a 'wheel bearing locknut socket'. I'm not sure if you need it for 4wd Pathys). The cheapest place to find it is on ebay. I paid about $20 for mine. Parts stores around here don't carry the right one. They have 4-prong ones, but what you'd need is a 2-prong one. One that fits Honda will work fine. Here's a link to the socket: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Front-Wheel-Bearing-LockNut-Socket-NISSAN-HONDA-JEEP_W0QQitemZ320493756683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item4a9eeaa10b edit: Keep in mind that if you ford anything deep enough for the water to reach the hubs, you need to repack your wheel bearings ASAP afterwards just in case water gets into the hub/spindle assembly.

Most likely you lost a small amount of low end or possibly mid-range torque in exchange for a slight hp boost at high rpms. Torque is what you use for acceleration, you don't really see the effect of hp until you get above the torque peak (or are cruising at a steady speed)

IIRC, I found that I can get a complete exhaust (catalytic converter and all) for somewhere between $300-600 USD on rockauto.com although I don't think that was including the manifolds.

My '91 XE has 5-1/4" rounds in the doors and I believe 6x9's in the back (although I haven't checked to verify that) According to Crutchfield, you can fit 6-1/2" rounds in the doors and 6x9's will fit in the back. As for the specifications of the factory speakers, I suspect you have a google search ahead of you, if your local Nissan dealership can't tell you.

My Volvo had a similar problem, although it was a bit more obvious where the water was coming from. On that it was the windshield seal, and it was dripping onto the steering wheel. Start by inspecting the windshield seal and also the weather seals on the door. Beyond that, good luck.

I don't know about the 4wd hubs, but on my 2wd it wasn't that hard (had to replace 3 on the front and 1 on the back). You have to separate the rotor from the hub in order to do it. First take the caliper and bracket off. Then you have to remove the 6 14mm bolts holding the hub and rotor together. Use some penetrating oil such as PB Blaster where the rotor and hub meet and let that sit for a few minutes to an hour so it'll separate slightly easier. Then you just have to tap on the rotor with a rubber mallet. (If you don't have a mallet, place a block of wood against the rotor and hit the wood. The wood will protect the rotor from being damaged by the hammer.) Once the rotor's separated, tap the broken stud out with a hammer and slip the new one into place. The best way to seat the new stud is to slip several washers over it and use a lug nut to pull it through until it's fully seated. Once that's done all you have to do is reattach the rotor and put the caliper and bracket back on. (Unless of course, you're servicing the wheel bearings or replacing the rotors (which I did) at the same time.) There you have it. edit: I forgot about the dust shield behind the front rotors. Post corrected accordingly

If the A-arms are sitting parallel to the ground, how many notches should I adjust the bars to keep the adjustment close to stock?

I don't have access to the equipment to do a SAS project, and doubt I'll be doing any really heavy offroading any time soon, tbh. This fall I'll be heading back up to Missouri to attend Mizzou (University of Missouri in Columbia) and busting my butt trying to keep up with the kids who haven't been away from a school setting for 15 years. Mild offroading for the occasional camping trip as well as a bit of extra traction and control for icy/snowy (mostly icy) roads is what I'm looking at. Also, with the 720 (the pickup right before the D21) you can't convert a 2wd to a factory-style 4wd without a frame swap, as the suspension arms are mounted differently. That's why I'm asking for help in checking measurements.

Precise1, thanks for the body lift info. Chriskaw440, if the measurements match, it really wouldn't be that hard to convert. If I'm right, all it will take is removing the transmission tailshaft, swapping the front spindles and oil pan, and installing the rest of the system from there. (Well, aside from the hole in the floor for the transfer shift lever, anyway) I just need to make sure all the measurements are right.

Ok, I've been playing with the idea of converting Kumi (my '91 XE) to 4wd as part of getting her on the road, and need some info. I *do* know that the local pick 'n pull has the vehicles/parts available to make it cheaper (and much easier/quicker, locally) than hunting down a 4wd. What I need is info related to what I'll need to accomplish it, and whether it can be done without a frame swap (which would mean buying a 4wd Pathy would be cheaper). First off, I need to know if there are any differences in the manual transmissions (other than, say, removing the tailshaft to mount the transfer case), i.e. do they both use the same transmission, different variants of the same transmission (different cases), or completely different transmissions? Second is the engine cradle. Are there any differences in the measurements for where the suspension arms mount? (If someone could post the measurements in a way that is easy to compare it would be very helpful) I know that the mount points for the arms are welded in as are the side portions of the cradle. I also need measurements for the bolt-in crossbars that form part of the cradle and serve as the mount points for the front diff. Third comes suspension. Are the a-arms the same? What about springs/torsion bars, shocks, and sway bars? (I heard that the springs and torsion bars are, but would like verification) Fourth would be the transmission crossbrace and mount. On this I need measurements locating where the crossbrace bolts to the frame, and verification that the transfer case takes the place of the crossbrace. And finally, can someone verify the factory 2" body lift on the 4wd Pathys that I've read about? I need as much checked and verified as possible before I even consider spending the money. If it's doable, and I can get it done, I may write a short tech article listing what's involved and what parts need to be changed to do it.