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12161216

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  • Posts

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About 12161216

  • Birthday 07/10/1974

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 LE/ Mile Marker Hubs/ 4x4 parts poly upper and lower track arm bushings in the rear.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fargo,ND
  • Interests
    Mountain Biking and Snowboarding/ working on cars when needed/ Car audio (used to compete IASCA Pro 151-300 class)

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  1. Getting 12 (winter)to 15 (summer) in town with 10% ethanol (hard to find non ethanol in ND). I did however see 19 to low 20's when moving up here from NC and staying around 60mph. Items to help mileage are MM Manual Hubsl, I have replaced cap/rotor/plugs/wires and timing belt Truck is at 141k so I just figure it is what it is for a under powered suv with 31" tires. I get around 200 on a tank of gas. Probably looking to get a Outback wagon when the 13's come out. More leg room for the 2 kids and better milage will be nice. Anyone looking for a clean 97 LE with no rust (rear chrome bumper getting a spot) give me a shout.
  2. I believe so, the 2000's have a chip in the car and you need a box that a second key mounts in and then mounts under the dash to fool the car into thinking the key is in the ignition and the remote start will then work.
  3. Hey thanks for the advice. Got the job done and all is well. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask while everything if fresh in memory. Thanks James
  4. Hi all, so I moved to Fargo ND and am now installing a Avital 4103 remote start / keyless unit on my pathy. I know what I need to do for most of the wiring but am wondering if I need to install the arm/disarm factory alarm wires on the remote start? I think my factory keyless is just that and not an alarm. I can sit in the truck and lock the doors with the factory remote and then after around 30 sec I can start the truck and no alarm/horn. I am just wanting to make sure how many relays I need to get ahead of time. I know I need on for the second starter wire and I may need a couple for the negative door locks Thanks James
  5. If you keep those wheels you can dremel out the front wheel caps and they will fit over the MM hubs perfect. That is what I did on my 97 LE. James
  6. So I just did a 1400 mile trip from Hickory NC to Fargo ND a couple weeks ago. I took several days but I would check the mileage at full fill up and when I had to top off when my wifes van needed gas. I had a Thule cargo box on the roof along with a bike and a bike on the rear hitch. Just myself in the pathy with a some in the cargo area as well. The truck had 136k on it a has 31" at tires on it and I have MM hubs that helped I am sure. My low take for fill equaled 18mpg and my best which I did a couple of tanks at 60-65 mph was 21 and 22 mpg (for the 22mpg I did run vent only with no ac and windows maybe 4 inches down). Now that I am back in town driving I am back to the normal 15mpg in town. Overall the old pathy did good and I had no problems at all. I figure now that I have it up north I may be able to sell it for more if I advertise it as a southern no rust suv since it seams everything here is covered in rust. That is of course if I sell it, not having a payment sure is nice. James
  7. Here are some pics (hard to tell) from my install. I had the factory external cooler and to be honest I did not even think of in and out lines and just installed them they way my old unit came out and I guess I got it correct as everything is still working? If anyone is interested in the oem unit let me know. stock unit Hayden
  8. Hey guys thanks for your thoughts, the converter lock up was the only thing I was thinking would be longer. Mine even here in NC has a delay of 5 miles or so when colder so I figure just see how it goes and if anything just do the cardboard cover if needed. How bad is your mileage in the low teen and single digit temps? Thanks James
  9. Hi all, on my 97 Pathy I just replaced my factory (very small) tranny cooler with a larger Hayden 10k unit. My queston is will I need to cover the unit in the winters to help get temps up for the converter to lock up? I think my origional unit was part of the tow package so there shoudl be something built into the rad as well to help warm the fluids? I am moving to Fargo ND so when I say cold I mean it will be cold . I added to cooler since I started towing a smaller travel trailer and with 133k on tranny and having to tow the trailer from NC to ND in July 1400 miles I figured it may be a good thing. James
  10. Well the new sensor did not fix the problem. I guess I will wait till I get a CEL code one day. The issue is not that big of a deal to keep sinking money into things that might not fix the problem. James
  11. Auto Salvage shop that sells on Ebay. James
  12. Well I ordered a used unit that I am able to return if it does not fix the issue so we will see in a few days when it comes in. James
  13. I have my stock drive flanges out of my 97 if someone is willing to pay shipping. They work just fine and shifted from 2wd to 4wd up to 50mph no problem. I just put on some Mile Marker hubs to help with gas. James
  14. Ok so I have checked all vac lines and they look good, I have used the alchole on the sensor to clean it a couple times. It seems to be getting slightly worse after cleaning so I am pretty sure it is the sensor. The question is when I feel the light surging the rpms are not changing? I am trying to not just start buying parts and have it be something else. I have not thrown any codes that my reader will show anyway. James
  15. Hey thanks for the offer, I just picked one up today at Advance Auto for $20. Oh well, strangely my original had two lines attached to it and the new one only had one for the fluid. I just attached the clear on that I had seen at the back and plugged up the other. It seems to work just fine.
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