4wdRequired

Well, this forum is just about as dead as King Tut! Anyhow, finally got some time and put the Rancho Quicklift on the truck. I'll post up some pics later, but I'll get the issues down while it's fresh in my mind. Parts: Front PN RS999790QL quick lift 2". This is really just a 9000 XL in the form of the coil over strut, with the spring perch welded 2" higher on the strut tube than the factory strut. Collapsed and extended dimensions are the same as the OEM, so you do not get any difference in wheel travel. What you get is a 2" higher ride height. This means there's not much down travel left. Also means up travel still goes to the original bump stop, so if you're thinking you'll fit up some 285's (like Rancho suggests you can) without trimming, guess again. Unless you never plan to turn your wheels or bottom the suspension! I'm running 265/75/16 which cleared with the stock suspension. That was the size offered on the former off-road option of the PF. Note also this part does NOT include springs as do all the pictured kits in Rancho literature. You reuse the OEM spring. My .02 Rancho charges a bit too much for this part, considering all you really get is a 9000 with a spring perch welded on it. Rear PN RS999312XL shock 1-3/4". What this is a 9000XL which has the same length as the OEM, just like above. So you don't get any extra wheel travel, just the adjustability of the 9000. Otherwise you can just install the next part and use the OEM rear shocks if you want and have the same result. Rear lift PN RS70077. This part is a pair of coil spring spacers to go on top of the rear coils to raise the ride height. See above, the shocks and bump stops are same as stock, so you have less down travel and more up travel. Installation: Front- comes with next to no instructions; just a note to tell you to cut the center out of the cushion on top of the coil. The OEM part is one rubber piece that fits over the coil and also has the center bushing for the strut. Ranch supplies new red urethane strut bushings, so cut out the center of the OEM rubber and discard it. Reuse the outer portion on top of the coil. Put her up on jackstands under the frame, remove the wheels, disconnect the sway bar, pull the ABS wire out of the retaining slot above the hub so it can extend more, then get your coil spring compressor and have at it. Once you have the spring compressed, unbolt the strut top and bottom and remove. Depending on how well your spring compressor fits in the tight space, you may need to unbolt the hub assy from the upper A-arm so the hub can go lower to get the new Rancho strut in. Remember it's 2" taller to the spring perch on the strut, so the bottom A-arm has to go down another 2" to get the strut in. The top A-arm is what limits downward droop during this work. Please note compressed coil springs are DANGEROUS and if you do not have the right tools and experience, then please have a shop do this!! Once you have the new strut in place just reverse the steps and zip her up. Rear- Jackstands under the frame, wheels off, pull the shocks. You can do this end without a coil compressor, but care is still required. You can position a bottle jack under the rear arm (the one under the coil) and unbolt the arm from the hub assy. The rear arm and spring can droop independently without overextending the axles or a-arms. Drop it down, pull the coil, and replace it with the new spacer on top of it. Reverse dissassembly and install the new Rancho shocks during reassy. Results: The most important part! As advertised. Noticeable increase in ride height behind the wheel, and you do feel the higher COG. Highway ride with the Ranchos on 5 (midrange setting) seems softer than stock, but still well controlled. I'll probably crank them up around 7 for most highway use. Off road not tested yet, but I'll report back when I do. My main concern with so little down travel is will the suspension top out frequently. 2" more on average under the skid plates has to be a good thing. Looks: I'll post up some pics later. Not an eye-catching lift, but noticeable. Overall I'm satisfied.

I have some factory running boards from the SE model (2010). If interested let me know. We took them off for more clearance right after delivery. Sounds like you have the S model if yours came without. Welcome to NPORA.

Ask yourself do you want to drive through a bad spot or winch through? I would get the locker along with a high lift and come-along. Then you can pull yourself up, forward, backward, or sideways. More versatile for less $.

Cables stick too... Although I AM a fan of KISS for off-road machinery. But don't ask me to give up fuel injection and go back to carbs.

I ride when I can, which is not as often as I wish. Gary Fisher hardtail is my ride.

ARB has announced a new winch bumper for the 09-10 Frontier and Pathfinder. ARB Press Release I'll be going with the PN 3438290 on mine. Debating about whether to get it Line-X coated before installing. Anyone done that?

Clean oil is the most important attribute. Oil mostly needs to be changed because of contamination, not being worn out as in sheared down or additives depleted. I change oil by the OEM recommended "severe service" schedule in my vehicles. We've had several off-road (farm) trucks go 200k miles without an engine teardown. That's 200k at probably at average 10 mph and mostly in the dirt. 24/7/365 is how they get so many miles at low speed. Clean dino is better than contaminated synthetic. I do use synthetic in my POV's due to sometimes extreme towing duty etc. And syn is a good bet for the far North for easier starts. Used oil analysis is really the only way to determine the right change interval for a vehicle and how it's used. But if you follow the severe service maintenance schedule most vehicles the body will rot before the engine goes.

I would pull the valve covers and have a peek. Probably flush loosened a bunch of crap now sitting on top of the heads as Steve said.

Why was the engine flushed? Were you having oil problems before that? If the oil is black after two weeks change it. The flushing may have just loosened a bunch of sludge that's in your oil now. Check your PCV valve and see if it's OK. Open your oil fill -carefully- while the engine idles. If your rings are bad you'll have a lot of blow-by puffing out the filler.

Grayfox, are you sure it's not just a rough idle? That would be my first guess, and trans flush was just coincidental. I have used these guys for coolers with good success: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/coolers.html

Looks nice and clean & well maintained. Red always looks good in pictures, too.

Sad...

Anyone out there tried -or seen in person- the ARB 3438260? Or for that matter a competing product. Factory bumpers really need to go to improve approach angle, and give me some mounting for accessories and jacking points. ARB bumper 4x4parts.com offers one made by APS I think? ironbullbumpers has one for the Frontier, which I expect would fit the PF also? Not so keen on the look of this one myself, prefer the ARB, at least in pictures. shrockworks offers a Frontier bumper, which appears identical to the one from 4x4parts. Anyone touched one?

I should clarify mine is the DD. At present I'm using an ATV or Polaris Ranger for the strenuous stuff. Plus I tow 5,000 lbs of travel trailer when we do long trips. A couple of inches and 32" tires won't kill it, but the Calmini... that would mean a mandatory regear, which so far haven't seen many options for R&P gears for the R51 diffs. I do value the on-road manners and performance of the PF. It's really enjoyable in the city and on the interstate, don't want to screw that up. I like a balance of on/off road performance.