brix542

Looking to invest 3-5 grand in the vehicle itself. Thinking 7-8 second 1/8 mile maybe with boltons. Gdad has offered me a 94 mustang 3.8 5 speed for free just gotta tune it up and do some body work on it. On the fence of fixing it up cause i know how expensive it would be to build.

Hey looking to buy a car or truck to use as a DD and also slowly build up for the drag strip. Kinda leaning towards a truck for hauling purpose but also know that they cause more to build for the strip. Have an 1/8 mile track 5 miles away but will eventually travel to other tracks. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

They look like the 15x8s I got on my pathy.

Maxxis bighorns are a perdy good tire. I've got 31x10.50 on my pathy and they handle good and aren't too loud. Clears mud out good and handles good in rain and snow. Got right at 25-30k on them and still got round 30% tread.

5% tint is perdy dark. I did a 7" windshield strip on my pathy today and driving home tonight i could barley see through it when lights hit it. Glad i didnt go with the 2.5%. Thinks ima do the back doors and cargo area windows tomarrow in 5% if i have enough tint. Tried to do the drivers door in 35% but gasket messed me up and i ended up tearing the tint so i tossed it. Gotta get some more and try it with the door panel off. Only thing im not sure about is my sun roof. It looks like it would be real tough to do the inside cause of the pieces for the cover to screw onto. Is there a special type of tint for exterior use or would i be fine with the same stuff im doing on the inside?

Not quite sure what your saying but i think you mean shaking/wobbling? If thats what it is id first make sure your wheels are balanced good. Cheap and good chance of being the problem.

Im really liking em. They are lighter then my old rims and the stance on her now is perdy agressive looking. Plus they just look good on mine. I still gotta crank the t-bars a lil to stop the scrubbing. Hopefully will happen this week. Got full access to a 4 bay garage mon.-thurs. for 2 hours each night. Only gotta supply parts. Best part is im getting college credit for working on cars. Hardly any book work in the 2 classes.

Once the new handles come in il give everything inside a look at and spray the moving parts. From looking as i close the door the striker seems to be allinged with the latch. Could being to far in or out cause this?

uncc, thats what ive started doing since i last replaced it. Forgot to do this yesterday when responding to a fire call. I dont mind doing this but something doesnt seem right with the door. Handle easy to pull till the very end then real hard and opens with a pop.

Is it locked or just stuck where it wont open? When i replaced the hinge pins my dad closed the door before i could hook up the piece that stops it from opening too much and the door got stuck closed. Had to push the door in and then pull the handle and open it.

I actually replaced the hinge pins on the door a week ago. Had a good 1-3 inch of play and now if you lift on the door you lift the body as well. The metal hoop that the door latches onto was gouged bad so i replaced it with the one of my parts truck. It has slight scraping on it but was alot better then the other. Im thinking that maybe this isnt in the right place?

Thanks trog. Hopefully this pair will last. Replaced the drivers side 2 times since the last december and it halfway broke again tonight. Guess i really need to figure out why the door is hard to open.

On my driver side door, ive had problems with the exterior handle breaking off. Part of the cause is pressure on my door from somewhere(which im trying to figure out) that causes you to have to pull harder on the handle. But the other cause is that the replacement handles are made out of plastic and look cheaply made. Is there anywhere i can get a all metal handle?

I did mine the same way nismo. Just didnt pull anything but the starter bolts. Wiggled it out the front and was good to go. Only took 10ish mins of tugging and "persuasive words" and i had it out.

I imagine with the bodylift it would make it alot easier then it was for me. Just take your front skid off and then unbolt the starter and slide it striaght foreward. WIth a lil wiggling it should slip right out. The wires should be long anough to extend out the front which makes it easy to disconnect them.

Nice186- 31x10.50s on stock rims orta fit fine. The bighorns i have now are my second set of mts on a stock pathy. First was some nexens. Both didnt scrub. Only reason they scrub now is cause my new wheels offset is different. But if your front has sagged bad you might need to crank your t-bars. Which are torsion bars. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27538-front-torsion-bars-and-adjustment/page__p__513421__hl__+how-to%20+crank%20+tbars?do=findComment&comment=513421. That thread shows you how to adjust them. You can also reindex them if you dont have enough. Theres a thread on how to do that in the garage section hardbody- Im not quite sure. I got 3.25-3.5" when i measured em.

When i replaced my starter bout a month ago all i did was drop the front skid and wiggle it straight out the front and this was on a 1994 SE with an auto trans. May take a lil longer depending on how difficult it feels like being that day but fairly easy to do. Just gotta watch were your hands go. Some stuff under the truck seems to like to gouge them.

Thanks for the info B. Ima just crank em up till shes level and that orta solve my rubbing for now. Least till i can afford lift coils and whatnot......

This goes to show ya cant trust everything ya read. Found it when looking for info on em and it made sense. Thanks though. Glad to know thats how it was from the day they were made. Havnt looked at the t-bars yet. Helped the boy i got em from mount a toolbox and the whip on his yota after i got em mounted. Soon as i get a chance il raise em up some. I need to anyways to level out the truck. Bout a half a inch difference from front to back.

I got em for 50 bucks and a cb whip with mount and spring. Got em mounted with my 31x10.50 bighorns and they rub a lil at full lock. Should be easy enough to fix. Just about a quarter or half inch off the front and back corners of the front fenders. Only problem is that they are all rims for the passenger side of the truck so the "blades" on the drivers side spin opposite of the passenger side.

Well ive found out what they are. American Racing AR-26 rims. Aluminum, 15x8, 3-3.5" backspacing i believe and discontinued. Would these fit on my pathy without too much rubbing issue? Price seems to be perdy good to me.

Thanks to both of yall. Ive been looking and seen where someone said they were enki's on a different forum. Maybe i can turn something up about em

Well just looked at em and they werent the ones i posted. They are these: http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=674&tbm=isch&tbnid=VWKqZJJdCu5mtM:&imgrefurl=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php%3Ft%3D502679&docid=4UqViSMU8qakcM&imgurl=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php%253Fattachmentid%253D260053%2526stc%253D1%2526d%253D1156362787&w=400&h=300&ei=A_UOUKGQLIO09QS-sIHgDA&zoom=1. Info on them would be appreciated and if someone got a pic of them on a pathy id love to see it. Thanks.

One of my friends has 5 "sawblade" wheels that he wants 100 bucks for. All i really know about them is that they are 15x8 and the same lug pattern as my pathy. Im hoping someone can tell me their weight, backspace, etc. I believe they came off a 1992ish toyota 4x4 with a 4 banger. They look like these: http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=674&tbm=isch&tbnid=uroq20GBq217jM:&imgrefurl=http://www.gregsalerts.com/%3Fcity%3Dlittlerock%26catAbb%3Dpts%26format%3Dhideimages%26start%3D4300&docid=mcp8S4x_dsAePM&imgurl=http://images.craigslist.org/5Fa5H65Jc3Ee3L93N7c6996d4b55623b91305.jpg&w=336&h=450&ei=OqgMUKHbFIau9ASJiai5Cg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=862&vpy=282&dur=120&hovh=260&hovw=194&tx=127&ty=234&sig=118053606097341927912&page=2&tbnh=153&tbnw=117&start=15&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:8,s:15,i:151. Thanks for yalls help.

I think your right on your toggle switch. I believe one of the 2 starter wires is a 12v constant and the other one gets power when you turn your key to start the truck. So you would want to find the one that isn't constant and cut it and run one end to one side of your button and the other end to the other side. If i'm not mistaken wired like I've said you'd have to switch your toggle on then switch the key to run and then hit your button to start the truck. I'm not completely sure on this since i'm really just starting into the mechanical field (start the first of 5 semesters in a auto tech program in august) so hopefully someone else can confirm i'm right or tell you the right way if i'm wrong.