Scaramoche

humm, i dont have the stove pipe installed, so im currious if that may be an issue, id forgotten about that(i need to see if i still have the cover that goes over the manifold), but if you ran ok, im currious any one else have feedback?

Thought i would share what i found on my local CL lol...I had to take a double take, because if i had the cash, i would probably find a way to squeeze into my pathy lol http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/pts/2051032814.html

Well not sure where to look, Now that the weather has taken a turn towards winter, im having an issue where i occasionally stall when pulling up to a light. Basically when i start the car it idles hight(1200rpm), ie cause its cold and warming up. it doesnt stall at this point Once i get on the road, and say hit, a stop light, the rpms, drop really low(100rpms or so) for a few seconds(1-3) this is when it stalls. if it doesnt stall durring this 1-3 sec, it goes back up to it's 900rpm range. after about 30minutes of running(basically getting to operating temp) it runs fine and stops stalling. What can i adjust? Im not sure i want to crank out the idleadjustment screw, im kina of happy with the 900rpm range, and not really sure if this would clear up the problem. am i missing a sensor somewhere? I rebuilt the engine last year, including heads, and it ran fine all summer, passed immisions etc , the only problem i have is this silly idle issue when it cold, and slowing down.

ok, seems like if fixed it over time.....I remember an old profesor of mine telling me how if in a design you are 1% off on many things it will all add up. Well this seems to be what my issue was. my timing was about 5' off, little leaks in my vaccum lines. some issues with emmisions equipment. Now i idle fine, i have get up and go when i mash the peddle, and no wandering idle. so my suggestion is start with timing, then hit emmisions system.

hum, ive rebuilt the engine, new clutch and fluids done in drivetrain. what do i have left? I have some misc electrical issues, i have slow leaks from oilpan(didnt seat it well when i rebuild), leak from power stearing pump hose. .....hum.....guess thats it.

Hi folks Well I figured since i have some time on my hands i would fix my temperature guage which hasnt worked since i rebuilt the engine(possibly before). So any information would be greatly appreciated. If you are suspect a broken part, could you please let me know where it's at. Thanks Scara

We have a hill like that here in albuquerque, nm, at the montessa off-road park. when i was younger me and my little bro would take it on dirtbikes, etc, this abruptly stopped when my little bro rolled his 95 jeep wrangler.....that was 2 weeks old Oo. poor bugger had a jacked up jeep for 5 years until he paid off the note . now we just go watch other people try that hill lol scara

Woot, that was it, ie msd. I just disconnected and no more backfires. On payday ill go pick up a dizzy from a newer model, my question is, will the valve cover fit from a 90-92? thanks all scara

ok, that makes sense, and seems to follow what im seeing. when cold, or at lower rpm's(below 3k) i run fine, but once engine is at operating temp, and i get up towards 3k, i start backfiring. I have cleaned my mass airflow, no change, but what i HAVE CHANGED is my o2 sensor. Infact in a previous post a few months ago i was having these issues(thought i fixed, ie ab valve, and timing), and they all started after i replaced the o2 sensor. so my question is, if i disconnect my o2, will the ecu default to a basic air/gas mixture curve? and if i do this, do i have to "clear" the ecu, ie battery etc? Basically in the morning, im going to get engine to operating temp, then set timing again(cause it runs like crap now due to being severly retarded) ill set it at 12-15 degrees(probaly closer to 12), disconnect the o2, reset the ecu(disconnecting battery i assume) and see what happens. also i would like to note at the same time i did o2, i also added an msd 6a ignition system(if this could be an issue, please let me know) any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks scara

I have a wd21(like yall dont know hehe) and i have been having a constant backfire issue. I had thought i had fixed it, untill over the last few days i had to drive 200+ miles a day. I thought everything was fine, but after about 1.5-2 hours of driveing i could feel it slowely loosing a little power, then it would begin to backfire(around 3k rpm), i could drive if sat below 2,5k rpm. i retarded the timing a bit, and seemed to clear it up, but i would now have loss of power issue and some backfiring on idle(1k rpm). either way i got home and put a timing light on it, and found that my timing, which i had set at 12-15 degrees(at temp, after warming up) was now sitting at like 30 degrees. so when i had retarded my timing on the road, it lowered got rid of the backfire. so what devices tell the ECU how much to tweek the timing? something is obviously crapping out at temp and causing me some issues, or could it be the ecu? in a nuttshell, how can i limit the amount of timing adjustment?

lol, i registerd on site last year, but trolled it for a few months before joining hehe

I just hit 100 posts! im officially a memeber...hehe now to get my pathy beefed up a bit(get new tires tomorrow...well used actually) then take some pics hehehe. PS i hinted im getting some tires tomorrow, but was surfing CL earlier and seen a bunch of toyota 6 lugs with tires, will these fit the pathy wd21 6 lug patern?

welcome, and yup these guys know everything you need to know about pathy's ...heheh

welcome !

thanks my1path Actually i figured out how to fix backfire issues. Seems when i cleaned out my ab valve it worked for 2 days, but i believ i loosened some material the clogged the litle hole inside the diaphram. So i went to nissan...again...and they are going to order one for me. Either way, my pathy is my only car, so i had to find a way to get it to run. I experimented by placing about 1ft of hose where the ab valve enters manifold. I then (with help from wife) put my finger over the hose(so no air would enter it) then had her rev engine to 2.5krpm, as expected it began backfiring. I slowely moved my finger of the top of hose allowing air in, and wham it cleared up backfires. So i had verified that it was the AB causing my issue. I also knew that if i left it open, then at idle it would run like hell, or not idle at all. So using my rocket scientist type brain i came up with a simple solution. I put a cap on the end of the hose(those rubber ones you pick up to terminate vaccum lines, and hoses at auto store). I then tested, and it idled fine, but my backfire still occured. I then took my drill with a small bit, and drilled a hole into the cap(very small), it still idled fine, and my "backfiring" improved. I slowely widened the hole, and bingo, i found the "sweet spot", where idle was fine, and NO MORE BACKFIRES. In hindsite it works just like the ab valve, but relies on a simpler solution. From what i can figure out, at low rpm's the hole want's to "self seal" allowing very little air in. but at higher rpm's the vaccum created help's open the hole allowing fresh air in, allowing a more complete combustion. I may completely off, and full of shate, but it works lol Hope this helps you all Scara

Ok, back at it...I thought the AB valve would fix my issue, but nope, im still backfiring at 3k. From what ive read this is a result of running rich help note; i have the throttle body

I do have the throttle body, and the AB valve is connected to the front of the airbox via a hose. This hose connects to the front of the ab valve. The top of ab valve has a vacuum line comming from manifold and at the bottom of AB valve has another hose which connects to the intake manifold(basically feeding fresh air into the combustion chamber. Ill try and get some pics for ya later today EDIT actaully found a pic 1path did that shows the ab valve http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23251&st=0&p=416253&fromsearch=1entry416253

I would be interested in what type of filter you put on the intake of the AB valve. Just finished my epic emissions problems(woot i passed), and come to find out my problem was my ab valve. Im looking at building a cold air intake, but since my emissions fiasco, im a bit frightened of farting around with my ab valve or egr

well...being poor, and on disability, I rattlecanned my pathy Oo. my 2 cents First, if at all possible do earl schibs or something lol. I will in future. now that being said, I couldnt even do this, so here is what i did sanded to metal, if this seems to much a pain in the arse, then i would at least get to the primer, and sand with a fine grit(after larger grit to get to primer) Next I tapped everything off Next I primered it with rattlecan self etching primer. I did 2 coats, dont know if thats good or bad, but thats what i did. I also sanded inbetween. After priming and sanding(fine grit) I used rustolium paint in spray paint cans(ive heard people use a roller brush instead) To paint(spary) i did multiple "light" coats. In all i believe i did 5-7 coats(been a year since ive done), after the first 3 coats or so, i wetsanded(NOTE all the sanding i did was wetsand) with a very fine paper, i sanded 1-2 times more between coats. Once i had my final coat, i sanded again with i believe 1000grit or 1200grit paper. I then used some rattlecan UV protectant clearcoat. I have been pretty happy with the results, but all said and done i spent like 300.00 to do this, which if i would have just sanded, primed etc, and taken to 300.00 paint shop they could have done it either way, the paint has held up pretty well, only 2 flakes(one near door handles) and near the bottom door jam, they were very small, and easy to fill. Well thats my story pic below is my pathy with rattlecan job As a note, it seems rattlecan jobs look better when you ahve outlandish colors aka like yellow , but if your trying to get a pearl white or black, i have mixed feelings if this can be done(i have seen some people who have pulled it off, and others completly trash it) Scara

hope you find the answer cause mine does the same lol If i only had a schematic for it, then i could probably rebuild it. My spedo doesnt work either, I replaced the spedo cable, and it worked for a couple days, now nothing, i verified the nylon nipple was there, and spring, so guess ill have to look at tranny

found the problem, my AB valve(anti backfire valve) was seized. I spoke with nissan for a replacement, but they didnt have one, and not sure how long it would take to get one. So either way, this morning(befor i did my suspension). I took off the ab valve off soaked it in bolt penetrator, had a couple cups of coffee, then flushed with 2 cans of brake fluid, dryed, and reinstalled. Bingo! it worked, and works well. No more backfires

well, Im SOOOO happy, i lifted the front of my pathy, pulled the tires, and WHAM, no shims. infact there was 1/4 inch or so gap between the a-arm and the frame. I replaced with washers(my local auto shop wanted 22.00 for 6 shims, i paid 4 dollars for a box of high end washers lol. replaced the shims/aka washers, tightened everything(did this couple of times to get wheels correct), and BAng! it drives like new. I also greased everything. Next upper ball joints. Thanks All Frank

I just want to say thanks to all you NPORA folks who helped me not only fix and pass emissions, but get my vg30 purring, and now i fixed my alignment(the shims were missing) thank you all again

yup, i think i do, i have a stud broke off on cylinder number 5, thanks ill check whats going on

Hey all, update I passed Emissions! Now the problem lol, seems im full of them. I got a new cat, and o2 sensor, but now im having backfire issues. What occured, after cat, and o2 sensor i was still high on my high rpm HC's. which was really strange because my problem befor was low end HC's. Either way, when i looked back on it the one thing i did(other than new o2, and cat) was corrected some issues with my AB valve(i had some cracked lines, and im not sure if it works either way) in a nutt shell this was when my HC's went up(after connecting and repairing ab), and now i have alot of backfire. I noticed that if i let air into the AB valve hose(the part that connects to the intake) it backfires real bad, but if i completly block it off(I put a hose cap on the tube comming from the intake maniforld) it clears up a bit. Even with the intake manifold AB intake capped i still get some backfire at high rpms, so my next step was i disconnected the O2 sensor(from the harness). This even made it run a bit smoother, but still some backfires, especially if i lower rpm's(around 2k) in 3rd gear or so. Im completly stumped, i didnt have this issue before i started with a new cat, o2, and installing ab, now even if i disconnect them im still backfiring. any help appreciated, and ill toast a beer to you. Also, now that my emissions has past(for the next 2 years), I dont mind disconnecting, or completely removing any emissions gear(as long as it makes me run better) Thanks again