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grie78

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  • Posts

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About grie78

  • Birthday 11/11/1978

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Pathfinder SE 4X4 136,000 miles and still rolling bought in May '06 for $600
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Year
    1995

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    grie1978
  • Website URL
    http://www.myspace.com/grie78
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Falls, NY (10mi south of Buffalo)
  • Interests
    involuntary mechanic, football, some hockey, hard rock, social drinking

grie78's Achievements

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  1. the rest of the truck is in varying degrees of dissarray. after talking to a few of the other machinists here at work, the general consensus is that it'll make the 8 mile drive home, but after that: FUBAR. the pics can't show a whole lot, but there isn't much frame to weld to. now that both sides broke, they have left a much larger gap in the frame than I thought I had. it's been a fun ride, and one of my favorites (considering this is vehicle #14 since my first in '97 - only 3 were lost to accidents). should the fates be so kind, I will definitely buy another Pathy down the road. I GREATLY appreciate all the assistance from the members here, over the last year. I couldn't have asked for more helpful and knowledgeable ideas from people that truly care about their vehicles. Eric
  2. my frame snapped this morning on my way into work, pulling out of a parking spot. both sides. here's pics of the damage. it's been suggested, since I don't have $$ for a replacement, to have the frame welded at a shop. my question for you all is: is it worth it at this point? both pics are angled for best shot, and are at the front of both rear wheels. driver side. pass. side.
  3. I have to replace both of mine, but the only dealership near me wants $85/ea. side. unfortunately, I can't order parts by phone or website, (no credit cards or accounts - long story) so I'm kinda screwed as far as where I can get parts.
  4. o-kay, here goes. while I was on the ground, about to change the front stabilizer connecting rods, I noticed something else that had broken on my truck. what is the purpose of the compression rod that attaches to the back side of the control arm? from appearances, the one on the driver's side has been busted for much longer than the year and a half I've owned my Pathy. the one on the passenger side, however, is not busted, but instead the frame (where the end bolts through) is cracked. now, I'm sure it is an important part, but how is it that I went so long and didn't feel anything major in the suspension? up until Mon. everything was fine. then the pass. side conn. rod snapped off, and my steering controls (only when going around a curve to the left at speeds of 45mph+) all went to sh|t. if the compression rod has been busted for this long, what are the possible repurcussions of leaving it alone. I'd like to replace them, if they're bad, but with the frame's stability in question as far as making it another couple of years, I don't know if I even want to keep putting money into this truck. it's just discouraging to have yet another vehicle I like to "nickel and dime" me to death. I'd welcome any opinions on this matter, or even words of encouragement. Eric
  5. first, what's the difference between synthetic and regular motor oil? if it was worth it, and I wanted to switch from one to the other, how do I go about it? second, (provided the pictures show up) what is the part name for theses covers on a 4wd truck? where can I go to get new ones? as you can see, mine are perforated from rust, and are leaking my wheel bearing grease. this is the pass. side front and this is the driver's side. appreciate the help
  6. the check engine light does come on, but it's intermittent. it's off when the truck is running rough, but once it starts running smoothly, the light comes on, and then back off when it starts to sputter again. I don't really get it, but I will have to check the codes to be sure.
  7. my truck is still having trouble running, so I checked out the egr valve yesterday. I noticed that the line that comes out of the bottom end of the valve going into the tbi(?) wasn't screwed in at all, and was caked with carbon. I cleaned it up a little and screwed it back in. unfortunately, I was wrong to hope that was the problem all along, since it ran just as bad this morning on my way into work. some days it starts out fine when the engine is cold, then 1/2 mile down the road, it would start to sputter and the tach. would drop about 1500-2000 rpms, only to kick back in and take off throughout the first 4 miles to work (then it'd run fine for the last 4 miles). other days it's just the opposite. if the problem leads to my egr valve (as it seems), is there a way to clean it out? I work in a machine shop, so I have access to a lot of different tools and chemicals (if needed), or will I simply have to replace it? I called the local Pepboys and they said there's two types: one for $90, and the other for $160. I just have to give them the oem # to match whichever part I'd need.
  8. couldn't work on it yesterday, had to buy new wrenches, the ones I had were too small. then did work around my grandparents' place. if it's not the o2 sensor, like gxl90rx7 said, what could be the malfunctioning part?
  9. I've had the new one for about 3 weeks, I just haven't had the time or motivation to replace it. it did come with the wiring, so I at least have everything I should need (including a nice supply of pb blaster). thanks for the help. again. I'll work on it this weekend and let you know how much of a pita it is or isn't.
  10. what's it take to swap out an o2 sensor? mine's completely fubar'd, and my truck runs like it's about out of gas until it warms up. I've never changed one before, and the new one looks pretty basic, but I wasn't sure. I figured at the very least, my main problem will be getting the old one out, since everything else on the truck I've tried to replace has fought me every step of the way.
  11. no air bags in mine, either. that sucks, glad you're ok. good luck, hope it works out in your favor.
  12. agreed. if I had noticed the fist-sized rust holes in the frame before I bought mine, I probably would've looked for a different vehicle.
  13. there wasn't much I could do about the price. most of the deal was done by my grandfather while I was at work.
  14. just turned over 140,000 last week.
  15. sorry for the delay, I had some unexpected trouble with the internet. I just wanted to thank everybody again for the assistance. I was able to get the starter off, but due to a lack of room, even after jacking up pass. side of the engine, I couldn't get it out. I ended up having it towed to a local mechanic to work on. I'm glad I did, since the used starter I was gonna put in, decided not to work when the mechanic got it installed. After technically changing out the starter twice, replacing it with a new one, and giving me an oil change, the final bill was $300 ($260 for the new starter). definitely not a deal I could've done on my own, my grandfather knew the mechanic. Next on the list is a new O2 sensor, and then a new exhaust.
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