somethingcool

I'm in if I can save enough gas money...

You are thinking in terms of regular old oil, when a multi grade oil is used the oil itself is almost never what is breaking down. Instead it is the polymers that allow it to behave as a multi grade oil that break down. 10w40 oil takes the most polymers to cover the viscosity range. Once the polymers are gone you are left with dirty oil with a viscosity of 10 at cold and who knows what when hot. Same with 5w30 but not quite as bad. 10w30 is the only way to go if you don't get below -18f temp. From: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle.

Ahh just slap a coat of zero rust over it

I dunno about those oil additives you add to the oil then run for 3000 miles. It seems to me if it cleans your engine it must have some property that will remove gunk from metal. It seems to me this would also make it harder for engine oil to stick to metal parts... I just tried some stuff in a chevy 350 that you add right before an oil change, idle the engine for 5 minutes, then drain and fill with fresh oil. Did a good job, my idle is much better now and it seems to rev better. I like this approach better than having some detergents bouncing around in my engine for 3000 miles...

Uhh, sorry, wrong... 10w40 will wear out way quicker than 5w30, I think 10w40 is actually the quickest degrading of conventional motor oils...

Start with the shocks, I had some kyb gr-2 shocks for a while, nice ride from some cheap shocks. If it still feels loose replace your bushings, the control arm bushings front and rear, maybe your sway bar bushings, tension rod bushings. That should tighen up the ride a lot.

Use 10w30 or 5w30 in a vg30 or 33...

Found another good one for body parts. http://www.nissanautobodypartstore.com/cgi...nder-parts.html $60 for a new front bumper, not bad at all...

Someone buy my kyb gr-2 front shocks! $20 and they have barely been used, nice ride like the stock shocks... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1451

When it won't start, try banging on the starter with a wrench or hammer, if it starts after that then you need a new starter.

Allright, first off make sure they are using the right specs: Here are the specs for 4WD: Camber 0.563-2.063 degrees positive. Preferred: 1.313 degrees positive. Caster 0.0625 degrees negative to 1.4375 degrees positive. Preferred: 0.6875 degrees positive. Toe is for total toe in at 0.08-0.24. I went in for my alignment last time ans les schawb's computer had the wrong specs. Secondly you need to find out what spec they couldn't get right, my guess would be the camber. If it is the camber you need to have them play with the height of the t-bars to get it in spec...

Try soaking it in penetrating oil for a few days, hit it up often, and see if that'll do the trick.

Yeah, I think it was kinda random which ones got the lsd, mine in a 91 XE with fog lights and a tire carrier, but it had little tires and no step bars or cruise control.

Uhhh, why? Buy the $99 lifetime alignment, tell their lame firestone asses to get under there and align it as best they can, then when the l&p centerlink comes in, install it and take it back to be re-aligned...

Look where it is at, right where the rear wheels would be throwing up salt and road grime. My guess is the p.o. never bothered to clean the frame out and so that is where it rusted. Makes me sad that people will care enough about their car to wash and wax the exterior but have no idea what the underside looks like, where as I'm the exact opposite