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colinnwn last won the day on December 22 2016

colinnwn had the most liked content!

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38 Excellent

About colinnwn

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident
  • Birthday 10/01/1976

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    AC 3" Lift
  • Place of Residence
    Dallas, TX
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    dallas, tx
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Skydiving, SCUBA diving

Recent Profile Visitors

2,732 profile views
  1. colinnwn

    Best OEM Replacement Headlights?

    The specific model I bought have HID low and halogen high beams, which should really be called halogen lower beams as they seem dimmer than the HID low. But I felt like the visibility of the low beam HID was greater than my factory halogen bulb high beams. I've been flashed once now with someone thinking I had my high beams on and they were the lows. So they probably project more than the halogen low beams, but it doesn't seem to bother most drivers. Kensun has another model that has an electrically operated shutter inside the bulb to control the low vs. high beam throw, so that would be something to consider if you like HID better. They were a bit more expensive but not outrageous.
  2. colinnwn

    Best OEM Replacement Headlights?

    They are still doing great. If one of them went out today, I'd look at the LED options. But if I didn't like those, I'd have no problem buying these Kensun HID bulbs again. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. colinnwn

    Wet floorboards

    I've had a years long battle with wet floorboards after rains, and dripping inside from the door frames approximately where the dash starts. I finally noticed the weather stripping is 2 parts glued together which is now failing. What ignorant fool at Nissan thought this was a good idea? Anyway I tried to glue it back together using this 3M product and it is a piece of crap. You are supposed to spread it thinly and evenly on both surfaces. It is impossible to do. The stuff tacks up in 3 seconds and starts balling up as you try to spread it. If you try to mush it together it doesn't stick for about 10 minutes and will pull off both sides and drop the weather strip if you aren't holding constant pressure across the 3 feet you are trying to fix in one go for a seamless waterseal. I'm so mad at it I'm having a hard time not throwing my phone across the room. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  4. colinnwn

    98 QX4 Cruise Control Problems

    It's hard to get a good picture, but the steering column is to the bottom right, and in the middle are the 2 black bushings. I have pushed the pedal down about an inch for better access and visibility. Check to see if they are still there and don't fall out by touching them. They should be pretty impossible to move. Getting new ones in is a little bit of a bear. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  5. colinnwn

    2004 Nissan Pathfinder Lift

    I think those are the ones I've heard nothing fits without grinding down the lip that the cover snaps into, but the Warn is the most slim. Can you post a pic of the wheel to be sure? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  6. colinnwn

    2004 Nissan Pathfinder Lift

    Looks like we forgot to mention, before many people put on a lift, it is recommended to put on manual locking hubs. That can save you years of life on your CV joints, which are further stressed by a lift. They are also harder to replace that putting on a lift. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  7. colinnwn

    98 QX4 Cruise Control Problems

    Could you see above your brake pedal what we are talking about to see if it is the problem? If not, maybe I can get a pic Sunday. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  8. colinnwn

    98 QX4 Cruise Control Problems

    If it is like my 01, there are 2 rubber bushings at the top of the brake pedal arm, and one bushing on my clutch pedal arm. They all got brittle and fell out last year. On the brake, they are used to contact the switches that control the brake lights, and cruise control disengagement. When my brake light one fell out, I had a dead battery because the brake light switch is a normally closed switch. When the cruise one fell out, the cruise wouldn't engage. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  9. colinnwn

    Rusted and leaking oil pan

    VQ or VG? On the VQ was just reading you have to drop the front subframe and jack the engine up a bit. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. colinnwn

    A/T Oil Temp light 2003 LE

    Manual transmission. But I do have the 2001 FSM if you need it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  11. colinnwn

    A/T Oil Temp light 2003 LE

    I'd change the fluid and the filter, and check the resistance of the AT temp sensor. Not sure how hard that is to get to. I have a manual. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  12. colinnwn

    2004 Nissan Pathfinder Lift

    No they aren't necessary. But this is an easy time to replace them if they are more than maybe 6 years old. I bought KYB branded struts which is the OEM manufacturer. They are just a bit cheaper. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  13. colinnwn

    2004 Nissan Pathfinder Lift

    I went with a coil lift because I wanted a firmer ride and better handling. I did this like 10 years ago. I also bought struts, shocks and a camber bolt kit. With a car this age, you should also get new strut bearings and isolators. Can't advise on spacer lift. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  14. colinnwn

    Front Brakes and Rear Shock Advice

    Shocks aren't supposed to support the weight of the truck, so if it's sagging that much, you probably need new springs too. If you jump on the back of the truck, once you jump off, it should immediately recenter and stop. If it continues to bounce around, the shocks are blown. If you can move the shocks easily with your hands when you get them off, they're blown. I bought my truck about 10 years ago with 130k miles. The shocks failed pretty quickly. The springs seemed ok, but I installed 2 inch lift springs from A/C Customizers anyway. If I could do it over, I'd probably have used OME lift springs because I understand they are a little softer. It rides a little rough now, but it handles much better. At that time I bought some Rancho shocks that A/C Customizers said were factory fit. They weren't, but I made them work, and they are going strong today at 250k miles, so can't really advise on shocks. You don't need extended length shocks though, especially if you don't extend your rear brake lines. Your first 4wd SUV brake job will be a long and messy job compared to a passenger car. But it is entirely doable if you accept it as a learning opportunity, go slow, and use the factory service manual. I haven't used the brands you are considering. Though my ceramic pads may have been Centric. I replaced my front brake pads with ceramic about 3 years ago I think, that I bought pre-emptively about 8 years ago. I used Autozone mid-grade brake rotors. Within a year they had developed brake jidder. After research I don't really blame the rotors. I think I didn't pre-clean them thoroughly enough, and I may have pressed on the brake after some high speed hot stops, which is a no-no. I replaced them with NAPA's store brand high grade rotors, and cleaned the hell out of them with soap and water, and then degreaser, and was very careful to not contaminate them with grease when re-installing. So far, so good. Hub/wheel bearing replacement is overkill if you are able to set the pre-load correctly and don't find evidence of a spun bearing when you are in there after cleaning everything up initially. I did replace the grease seals, and used synthetic grease in one of those bearing greasing cups that pushes clean grease thoroughly through the bearing. You'll need to buy the bearing socket, or get the Ford 4 prong socket and grind off 2 of the prongs, and shape the other 2 tongs down to work on the Pathfinder. Some people also completely wing the pre-load process. I half did. I used my regular torque wrench to tighten the bearing nut down to the spec (which is very high), rotated the hub as you are supposed to, backed off the nut until it was free, and then I didn't have a torque wrench that had a low enough range to set the final pre-load. If you want to do it right, you need one that goes down to about 10 inch pounds. In the end I did it by feel. Then if you want to be able to validate you got it right, you should buy a fish scale so you can use it to measure the brake force to start the hub turning.
  15. colinnwn

    Front End Driver Tire Wobble

    Tie rod ends? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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