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colinnwn last won the day on December 22 2016

colinnwn had the most liked content!

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About colinnwn

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident
  • Birthday 10/01/1976

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    AC 3" Lift
  • Place of Residence
    Dallas, TX
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
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  • Year

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  • Gender
  • Location
    dallas, tx
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Skydiving, SCUBA diving

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  1. colinnwn

    Tachometer Resister

    When the coil field collapses most of that arching high voltage energy goes to the spark plugs, but some of it rings back onto the DC input side of the coil. The condenser, which is generally a capacitor, but perhaps Nissan used a combination of a capacitor and a resistor, dampens that ring back. If it isn't dampened, it can do bad things to other electronic devices, especially hall effect RPM sensors if that is what the VG uses. I'm sure it is in a substantially bigger case than necessary. But you can't base a resistor size on its ohm resistance. It will have a power dissipation factor too. At 2200ohms, a tiny resistor for a tiny load might be 1/8 watt, or one as big as your fist in an industrial application might be for a 100 watt load. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  2. colinnwn

    Tachometer Resister

    Yeah that's what the ignition condenser looks like on a Nissan. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. I forgot about that. Also check recall status on gas filler tube rust, or that it has lived its life in non-salting states. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  4. colinnwn

    Cargo area interior light flashing

    Yeah I thought the $15 door switch was fine. The $180 latch replacement irked me for a cheap and what reasonably should be serviceable part. I do think I found the latch for $100 direct from Japan. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  5. If you can, park it warm facing nose down for 10 minutes and see if you have visible oil leaks on the pavement. Look for dampness and smell underneath the front floor mats to see if the sunroof or front windshield seal is leaking. I still haven't figured out where it's coming from but I've been fighting it for years. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  6. The 3.5 does have a timing chain. Ask about oil consumption. Ask if auto tranny, whether the swirl control valves have been tightened and locktited. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  7. colinnwn

    Cargo area interior light flashing

    I doubt there is any chance. The light flickers in time with me jiggling the latch plate inside of the locking mechanism. But when I get the plastic interior panel off and the locking mechanism is visible, I will look around. I had the exact problem with the driver rear door, and a new door switch fixed it. Now I just have to figure out how to get the plastic panel off without damaging it. I don't see any screws or pop points. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  8. My cargo area interior light doesn't come on initially, and only flashes when I open the tail gate, unless I stick my finger in the lock assembly in the tail gate and jiggle the latch around. Looking at the parts breakdown it looks like the switch isn't separately serviceable, and you have to replace the $180 tail gate lock assembly 90330-0W010. Has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to either replace the switch only, or clean it up enough that it continued to work? It seems ridiculous that you have to replace this whole part for what is a $2 switch, and you can get equivalent passenger door replacement switches for $15. Thanks
  9. colinnwn

    Tachometer Resister

    Is this person talking about the ignition condenser? I have a VQ. I couldn't find it documented anywhere except in the part catalog, but I found it on mine. It is taped up and looks like a tiny black automotive relay. I could show you, but it is probably in an entirely different place on the VG. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. colinnwn

    Brake and alternator warning lights

    I got home, added brake fluid but it was almost full, checked the battery terminals were tight, checked the alternator fuse which was fine, checked the voltage at rest which was 12.3v, and then started it up. Of course it didn't do it again and the voltage running was 14.4v. So it's probably an intermittent fault that will go at an inopportune time. I think it is likely the voltage regulator going, or I noticed the wires on the field plug on the alternator were tight the last time I replaced it, I hope they aren't breaking loose. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  11. So I jumped in my truck to go to the Red Bull Air Race. It started fine, but the brake and alternator lights stayed on. Also I have a Scan Gauge that didn't turn on. When I turned the truck off, then the Scan Gauge came on for a moment as it normally stays on for a bit when you turn off the vehicle. It has a 1 year old rebuilt original Hitachi alternator. I didn't get any other lights including no check engine light. When I get back if the OBD port still isn't producing power, I'm not sure how to check for codes, if there is a OBD reader that doesn't require power, or if I'd need to use the ECU service mode. I guess the next step is to do an alternator test. But it is a huge bear to remove for an off vehicle test. Does anyone have other ideas to check first? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  12. colinnwn

    Do I need locking hubs???

    I got the manual hubs for the slightly better gas mileage, maybe 1 mpg better, lighter steering, and so I could go longer between CV joint and boot replacements. At 260k, with the first 135k on the locked hubs I've not had to do a change yet. I hadn't heard of other front axle issues though. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  13. colinnwn

    Complications with getting lift

    I've only noticed it top out once. I missed that the curb started instead of a driveway, hit the curb at about 5 mph, caught a little air and heard them bang before I came down. But I wouldn't be surprised if they occasionally do top out and I don't notice. They are a little harsh and ride rough. Nothing like any factory vehicle available in the last 30 years. If you have ever driven a IH Scout, about like that. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  14. colinnwn

    Complications with getting lift

    Mine has had a 2 inch AC spring lift for 10 years. Never had any driveline vibration or problems with getting it aligned or poor tire wear patterns. I do have manual front hubs, and my tires wear fast but evenly because I drive a little hard. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  15. colinnwn

    MAF where to buy

    Are you asking if that is the correct one? In general RockAuto has great prices, and Hitachi is generally the OEM for many electronic parts on Nissans so it is a safe "generic" to use. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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