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colinnwn last won the day on December 4 2019

colinnwn had the most liked content!

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About colinnwn

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 10/01/1976

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    AC 3" Lift
  • Place of Residence
    Dallas, TX
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

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  • Gender
  • Location
    dallas, tx
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Skydiving, SCUBA diving

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  1. Do you have the FSM? It makes it very easy to determine the line and color. Who knows how hard the access will be. I could look in mine, but it is for 2001 and could be considerably different since they have different engines. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  2. I know on the 01 the relay is in the driver's side under hood relay box. I took it apart and tapped into it for controlling the power to my trailer 7 way plug through another relay. I think some years had the relay in the driver's side rear quarter panel. If you have the FSM for your year it has some pretty decent wire loom pics. It will tell you where the ECU is. It will also tell you what pin the fuel pump relay trigger wire comes off the ECU, and it's wire color and approximate routing to the relay. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. Whoops sorry looks like your pic is the uprate version. I've been looking at the other for use in Honda OEM fluid. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  4. This stuff also gets high praise in the Acura MDX forums for the 2001-2006 models that have known transmission issues. Some people have put it in a transmission, along with fresh fluid, that just started shifting strangely and it has fixed it for an extended period meaning 10k or more miles. They have several formulations and a chart on their website for what to use it in. This one as I recall is for fluids that meet the individual car makers spec. There are others that can uprate a fluid - like take a generic Dextron 3 fluid and take it to the enhanced Honda equivalent. I don't know if Nissan requires this. I only owned manual transmission Nissans. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  5. Sorry here is my better post on it http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2009/06/installing-aftermarket-stereo-in-2001.html?m=1 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  6. Aftermarket radios have a standard remote interface, and several companies make car specific adapters. Nissan in particular requires you to create a little resistor network for the multiple remote outputs. http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2009/06/pioneer-deh-p7100bt-car-stereo-review.html?m=1 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  7. The 2001 SE wheels fit Warns fine. You just leave the middle plastic hub cover off. I've read on here that the more modern looking wheels that came a year or two after that have to be ground down a bit in the center outboard bore to where it's hub cover would no longer work. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  8. The Warn Lockomatics I had in my Scout definitely didn't lock in reverse. I had to get out in cold mud several times to lock them. Researching to see if my memory was totally faulty, I see they should have locked, but it is a common failure condition to not. This was 25 years ago, and I'm sure they weren't properly maintained. Some really old auto lock hubs had one way sprag clutches, but most have bidirectional locking roller bearings. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  9. I think all R50s came with drive flanges. They mechanically connect the wheels to the front drivetrain. This also let you engage 4wd while moving. In addition to what everyone said, manual unlocked hubs make your steering noticeably lighter. And all these improvements occur regardless if you are lifted or not. But lifting increases the wear on the CV joints more, so that's when most people put them on. Auto locking hubs are a thing. Warn among others make them. They were offered on the previous gen Pathfinder. My old Scout had them. The drawback to them is you have to stop before shifting into 4wd. And the most common version lock only in forward. They unlock in reverse. So if you have to back out, you have to jump out and engage them. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. I'm pretty sure the throttle body had a lip on it that sits in a relief in the intake boot. I completely released the clamp band before I realized what the problem was. That's not necessary but you should be able to stick a pinky under the band. The boot is hard rubber so I had to go beyond wiggling, to putting significant muscle into prying it back and forth to get it off the lip. I figured it would break the first time, but it didn't. I did this maybe 3 times in my ~12 years of ownership. The last time the boot had deteriorated too much and was cracking. Nissan no longer supplies the boot, another company has taken over, and it was running about $250 for a new one on Parts Geek and it goes in and out of availability. So if yours cracks be ready to find a junker one in good condition, pay for a new one, rig something up on your own, or buy the K&N intake. I was lucky to find a used K&N intake on eBay for $180 when that happened.
  11. No one I've seen has found a longer strut either. They are all about the same length. You just put a stiffer spring in which doesn't compress as much, or you do the spacer, or a SFD. I wouldn't want a longer strut anyway because then you run into the same problems of too big spacers or SFDs in that your suspension can extend the driveline further than it was designed to go. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  12. If it is bottoming out, you shouldn't fix it with shocks. Besides aftermarket spring shocks, shocks were originally meant to stop oscillations, not carry load. Either your springs are worn and you need new ones, or you are carrying loads exceeding the original design and need stiffer springs. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  13. The R50 Pathfinders do not have service reminder lights. Can you post a pic of the light? If it is the engine light, you definitely have a stored code, or if not your ECM is probably messed up. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  14. I've never put on a SFD or know what is involved besides reading some threads on this forum. But if you are wanting to do most of the work yourself, want it to be cheap, and have no access to a mechanic familiar with installing SFDs, I think a standard spring lift is easier. I did my own about 10 years ago except for assembling the strut package because the new springs were so strong. It was very easy to do if you are comfortable with basic wrenching. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  15. I can't think of what open connector there is back there. Here is what you need if you don't have the factory version already. It splices in with factory plugs between each tail lamp Hopkins 43565 Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q7ZU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v0N3Db12P9C17 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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