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colinnwn

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colinnwn last won the day on August 11

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About colinnwn

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 10/01/1976

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  • AIM
    colingeb
  • Website URL
    http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/search/label/pathfinder
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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    AC 3" Lift
  • Place of Residence
    Dallas, TX
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    dallas, tx
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Skydiving, SCUBA diving

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3,387 profile views
  1. Best case, shocks shouldn't be used to make up load capacity. However I do have Monroe spring assisted load shocks on my Acura MDX for towing. I don't like them and wouldn't use them again. Airbags can work. But they are best for variable loads. If this load is going to always be in your truck now, I wouldn't use them. Or I'd use them in conjunction with springs that can handle your base load. I have Firestone airbags on my MDX because that's about the only other option for it for towing. I like them fine. If you search the forums for Land Rover springs, there are several much cheaper options than OME or AC lift springs. I have AC lift springs on my broken down Pathfinder. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  2. I put airbags on an Acura MDX. I could have loosened the bolt on the bump stop without removing the spring. But it would have been harder than just removing the spring, and I couldn't have physically removed the bump stop from inside the spring. Then I also had to drill a hole in the spring perch for the air line. I swapped my springs on my Pathfinder without removing any components but the shocks. I got the subframe on stands, jacked the opposite wheel up a little and used a spring compressor on the spring I was removing. Didn't disconnect brake lines or panhard rod. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. It's all a continuum. A Nissan Sentra has some off road ability, just not much. I can't remember did 2wd of that vintage have LSD, or an option you got? That would help on loose ground. Your 2wd would do OK on rocky and fairly flat terrain. You'd want to skip inclines that increase as they go up. Also be careful mudding or loose sand, I'd say don't do it. Anything that's real slick but can stick you up if the front wheels can't help pull you through. Hard pack sand would be fine. And always have a recovery plan. Getting a cheap electric winch would be recommended if you plan to push it at all. And carry a shovel. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  4. Yes I think that's it but pic is blurry and dark. I've never had to replace mine. I think you'd just remove the top links, remove the bar bracket, then hopefully tetris it out. Might have to remove wheels. Would be best to review service manual. Probably has detailed steps. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  5. Look on the other side of the axle towards the front. It will have an arch over the pumpkin, and short arms that L forward, and then 2 short links that go up to connect to the subframe. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  6. Nope. That's a panhard rod. It provides the side to side location support of the axle to the body, so the axle doesn't go scampering off to the left or right. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  7. Unlikely but possible. With cars, one discounts the possibility of something failing, especially if it has been recently replaced, at their own peril. But that is what service manuals were written to help with, and using scan tools that can read sensor outputs. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  8. A MAF sensor can also cause poor running, especially at lower engine speeds. But they aren't a cheap throwaway part swap, so id run the diagnostic on it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  9. You should get that fixed, but there's no way an o2 sensor should cause rough start. The ECU has a preprogrammed fuel map for starting and cool idle until the o2 sensor gets to temperature. My 01 had starting trouble when the fuel filter got clogged, and when I got confused about using 60k spark plugs instead of 100k. Besides that, I'd look for vacuum leaks, correct air and coolant temp readings, and the idle air control motor. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. In my experience once the cracks start to show, they go fast. If you really want to cheap out, of course you could probably duct tape them, and as long as it sealed good, you'd never know it. When I needed mine it was hard to find, and I'm really happy I went with the K&N CAI (that isn't really). http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43758-has-anyone-tried-one-of-the-manufactured-cold-air-intakes/?tab=comments#comment-798577
  11. Standard Motor Products is a good brand. But some of the economy parts Rock Auto sells are garbage. The comment about the scan tool is interesting. It leads me to believe that at least they think this car has a key immobilizer. If it does you'd need the Nissan equivalent scan tool, or you'll have to do it the manual way. I've never heard of a generic scan tool that can set manufacturer specific options. I've seen both kinds of ignitions, where the key cylinder is separate to the switch and can be replaced without rekeying, and where they are one. If one and you want one key, you'd need to get a paired set or talk to a locksmith. I'd look this stuff up if I had the 97 service manual, but I only have the 2001 one Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  12. Ah well the other thing I could envision bring wrong is the ignition cylinder and switch being worn out so just turning it to 'on' sometimes allows it to jiggle back to accessory, but flicking it to start maintains enough friction so it doesn't happen then. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  13. Maybe I didn't understand. Your remote start requires the key to be inserted to drive off and that's what the key override feature does? I was thinking the key didn't need to be inserted. But even if it does, id try what you say. It could be the immobilizer does not see the key on start, doesn't look for it again when running, but let's it run a bit before turning off. Having the key taped to the column when the remote start activates would rule that out, even if you have to insert the other key. I'm not sure how they wire around that in older cars without CANBUS. I have heard of some people taping a spare key inside their column. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  14. Given your symptoms with the key start working, and the new entry system not, that anything is wrong with your truck. It's probably the install or new entry system. The reason R50JR said to do that is at least after 2000, the keys had a tiny chip the size of a rice grain in them that must authenticate using a tiny antenna in the steering column. It is completely separate to the keyless entry system or the remotes. You can confirm or rule this out by taping only your key to the column and use your new entry system as normal. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  15. I would check the air intake and coolant temp sensors. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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