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colinnwn

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colinnwn last won the day on April 13

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About colinnwn

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 10/01/1976

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    colingeb
  • Website URL
    http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/search/label/pathfinder
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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    AC 3" Lift
  • Place of Residence
    Dallas, TX
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    dallas, tx
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Skydiving, SCUBA diving

Recent Profile Visitors

3,013 profile views
  1. Have you checked your radiator fan clutch? I actually removed mine and put in an electric radiator fan. Made a huge difference in AC temp when sitting or going slow. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  2. Some windows have FM/AM radio antennas in them. Mine doesn't, it's just a normal whip antenna. I've even seen cars with a whip antenna and a windshield antenna. I think because they just put the antenna in all replacement windows for standardization. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. Interesting. I never found another clean way through the dash. From the driver wheel well, I ran them down to the lower door frame, down the inside of the side step to the back, near the trailing arm, and around the rear drivers wheel well, right to where my 4 way connector already was on the left back side. I ran it in 3/8 in wire loom for extra protection. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  4. How big of a hole do you need? For my electric brake controller on my 2001, I found a knock out rubber plug about an inch outboard of the hood cable release into the driver wheel well. I routed the wires behind the plastic splash guard and into the under hood area through the large pass through. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  5. Are the LR springs really that much of a load carrying improvement over AC 2" springs? I was wanting to fix the slight nose high stance when towing my trailer. Without the trailer I don't want too much rake. If they are likely to compress a lot less under 350 lbs, it's really surprising they aren't harsh, because my AC springs are plenty harsh, at least on Dallas potholes. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  6. For historical sake, per this thread, looks like 60742 will work on up to 2" of spring lift.
  7. I was searching my email for a reply from Air Lift company, and this thread notification came up, which is the exact question I recently posted about whether part 60742 was good with a 2 inch lift. Great to know it works. Don't know why it didn't come up when I did a forum search before posting my thread. What are the white spring seats at the bottom in the pics? Its been 10 years since I installed my lift, but I didn't remember there being anything down there besides the metal seat and rubber sleeve around part of the spring. Doesn't look OEM either. Is it to increase height? I just saw in Towndawg's signature it says he has a 2" rear spacers. I'm going to assume that's what it is. It doesn't look 2 inches lift though. It looks like it would be about 1 inch lift and 1 inch of rim around the edge.
  8. I'm thinking of putting on Air Lift bags on my Pathfinder for towing a small travel trailer with about 350 lb tongue weight. Air Lift says the right model is 60742 if you have the OE springs. https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/60742/ I have the AC 2" lift springs, and the trailer compresses my rear springs just over 2 inches making the truck ride a little nose high, considering the normal rake. Has anyone installed the Air Lift bags on their Pathfinder with 2" lift springs? Does that same model number work, or is there another with taller bags? Any install tips as far as needing to drill the hole to exit the inflation tube? Extra spacers or bumpstops needed inside the spring to make it work, or anything else? Thanks.
  9. No controller necessary. Can go straight to the battery. I put a 40 amp fuse in it immediately after the battery. But I did wire mine through a relay, that is controlled off of the fuel pump relay switched line, so if the engine isn't running, the trailer could never run down the car battery. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. Of course thats very easy to do. My 7 pin connector I installed had a 4 pin plug in the back to just plug it in to. It also has a 4 pin on the front so if you need to tow something with that, you don't need another adapter. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  11. If you don't have a 4 wire trailer plug already, you can either get the factory adapter, or this device from Curt that has factory plugs to splice into your left rear brake light. If you want to manually do this by splicing in yourself, there are several other generic versions of this. But I wouldn't mess with it. https://www.suspensionconnection.com/55361-nissan-pathfinder-trailer-wiring-kit.html Good luck. It took me several years of on and off work to get my 7 pin plug and electric trailer brakes installed. I already had the 4 pin. I estimate at least 20 hours of work and 20 hours of research. But I was being too picky about how I did it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  12. Best I can tell from looking at mine, and the FSM, manual transmission Pathfinders don't have an oil cooler. Is that not true? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  13. I didn't think to specifically ask the mechanics to check and replace the PCV valve as necessary. But the 2nd mechanic to do the 2nd and 3rd valve cover gaskets has an excellent reputation and I assume he would have at least checked it. There was actually a 3rd mechanic between the 1st and 2nd valve cover gasket replacements, who said I had a leak there, and at the rear main seal, and the oil pan. It's such an oily mess down there I don't know how they can tell. The mechanic who did the 2nd/3rd valve cover gasket replacement, said he didn't see other oil leaks he could identify. The obvious oil leaks on the pavement, and the burning oil smell when not moving, have stopped after the 3rd valve cover gasket replacement. The smell had been coming from under the hood. Occasionally I had seen a tiny wisp of smoke from under the hood. And as the 1st and 2nd valve cover gaskets started failing, it started losing 2 quarts a month. There is oil all over the bottom end of the engine front to back. It probably contributed to 2 alternator deaths on me. By the time I got it in each time, it was losing 1 quart every 2 days. There was oil all over the pavement at the back of the engine at that point. There is a little carbon in the tail pipe. But it doesn't seem oily or smoky, just more "gassy" smelling then when it had fewer miles on it. But that isn't a bother except when I'm hooking up my trailer. I had read in one thread that these engines tend to have a little too much taper in the bore, and loose oil control rings that lead to oil consumption, especially when decelerating under high manifold vacuum. And that the PCV baffle system on the passenger side is poor, and there is a revised valve cover to address it. I have no idea if there is any truth to that. I can replace the PCV valve this fall when the weather's better. It is mildly frustrating it is such a long job for something that should be easy to check/replace, and may not be a problem. I didn't expect the oil catch can to really fix anything. It was more to see if there is a more extensive issue internally to the engine, recover some octane lost if there is lots of oil mist coming through, and help decide if I should double down on looking for more leaks. It is a manual transmission, so no power control valves or screws to fall out. Also from looking at the engine, and reviewing the FSM, it appears there is no oil heat exchanger to leak on the manual transmission engines like is common with the automatic transmission engines. Any ideas you have would be welcome. Thanks.
  14. Thanks for the detail. I've seen a lot of other threads that suggest installing a catch can on these particular engines as they age. Yours is the first recommending against it. I've spent $1,000 over 3 years replacing the valve cover gaskets twice (really 3 times but the 3rd was covered under the 2nd replacement warranty) to stop the smoky smell. I'm still losing about 1 qt per month (about every 1,200 miles). Not sure if that is the engine eating it, or leaking during operation at this point. Though I'd like to figure out. It used substantially less than that until about 3 years ago. Guess I'll have to 2nd guess the catch can.
  15. At this point, at least on the 2001 models with the cable driven throttle body, I'm pretty certain the PCV vent can't be going into the throttle body or anything before it including the plastic intake boot. I can't see the hose at all. All I see is the hose coming out of the driver side valve cover into the intake boot. Should the oil catch can go off the driver vent and into the intake boot? I thought I saw on another forum where someone said that was the wrong place for it, they tried it anyway because it was easy to access, and they didn't collect any oil. If not, I'm not sure that the PCV valve side can be plumbed into an oil catch can without removing the upper intake. It doesn't seem there would be any clearance under there even after removing the throttle body, if it enters the metal intake runner behind the throttle body. And that's the only place left I could see it could be.

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