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About blamtro

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran
  • Birthday 04/27/1983

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 XE 2wd - soon to be 4wd
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year

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    Columbia, MO
  1. Nissan Titan with all the goodies!
  2. I pushed my '97 a little over 100 miles past the light...
  3. If you ran the truck 2 minutes with an empty pan, I think you could have done some serious damage. Think of it as running the engine with no oil in it for 2 minutes.
  4. The hose I used is 1/2" Sorry for the lack of updates. I dont have much time between this and work. i will try and get this thread all updated this week,
  5. As I bothered you all with many questions about my 2WD -> 4WD conversion project, I am getting close to seeing the fruits of my labor. I have the trans completely rebuilt, I am just waiting on one small seal from Trans Go that was damaged in shipping just to put it back together. Unfortunately, the seal goes on the direct 3rd clutch piston which is in the middle of the trans. I will admit, in the beginning, I was intimidated by the myserious interworkings of the autobox as I have never opened one up besides a simple pan drop and filter change. However, in the end, I was amazed at how simple they really are. I hope this helps someone some day. As we all know, this transmission has a problem with cooling. About 6 months ago, I installed my superbadass cooling/filter system. When the ATF flows out of the system, it runs though a full size, full flow filter. Then through the first cooler: 15,000 BTU rating, 5 3/4 x 11 x 1 1/2 thick. Then it flows to the Perma Cool remote thermostat that opens around 185*F to flow through the second: 20,500 BTU rating, 8 x 11 x 1 1/2 thick. And then back to the trans. The remote thermostat normally flows 90% only through the first, smaller cooler and 10% flows through the 2nd cooler. Once the temp hits 185-190*F, it will flow almost 100% though both coolers. The 10% flow through the second cooler when below 185*F prevents cold shock when the thermostat opens. Also notice I installed the coolers with the fittings up as to prevent air pockets from forming. I used all 1/2" pipe fittings and lube hose. The system has worked great. I had guage temporarily hooked up with the thermocouple installed in the filter body and temps stayed in check! http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/bla...ransCoolers.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/bla...TransFilter.jpg Back to the Trans First I started by disassembling the autobox, I took pictures along the way so I could reference them during reassembly. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/bla...er/Trans-01.jpg Everything came apart pretty smoothly. There was no major damage to any parts of the trans. Some of the bushings were worn and some of the clutch plates were just below the wear limit. There are 5 clutch packs in this trans. I reused all of the clutch steel plates as they were good as new. I installed a Trans Go shift kit in it as I do tow a 5000# boat. I did tons of research on which kit to go with. There are basically 4 kits available for the trans: Trans Go Shift kit, ~ $50 Trans Go Performance Shift, ~ $219 Trans Go reprogramming kit ~ $220 Superior Shift Correction Kit, ~$45 The Trans Go shift kit and Superior kit, from what I found, accomplished the same thing: firms up shifts, provides more lube to needed areas, and provides higher temp sealing rings. The Performance shift kit is a consumer level kit that comes with a video that is taylored towards those who are adding tons of power to the engine with a turbo or nitrous. It doesn't require removal of the trans from the vehicle, only the valve body. The Reprograming kit is similar to the performance kit, however, it only available to shops or distributors. It is not meant to be available to the public and doesn't come with an instruction video. It will require removal of the transmission. The reason I went with the TransGo shift kit, SK-RE4RO1A, is the performance and reprograming kit dramatically firm up the shifts. When I talked with TransGo tech support, they described it as "too firm" for towing and could damage input/output shafts on the trans, differentials, driveshafts, or axle shafts. I found TransGo's tech support to be much more supportive and helpful. I actually bought both the TransGo shift kit and the Superior kit, checked them out while talking to tech supports and returned the Superior kit at a 15% loss to restocking. Check my photos @ www.photobucket/blamtro because this damn thing wont let me post all my images at once. ...need sleep, will finish laterzzz...
  6. Let me know it you need some more help. I made myself some pretty extensive notes when I did my install. I probably spent 30+ hours doing it because I made sure everything was tucked away very neatly, every splice was soldered and heat shrink tubing applied. I completely tore the dash out minus the airbags to access all the wires at their source. All in all, it was worth it. No crawling outside 30 minutes before work to scrape ice/start car.
  7. The yellow wire is not supposed to hot all the time. However, you might get lucky and it could be the only thing wrong with the module. Since you do have the other wire that is a negative output on the 2 pin harness, I would try using that wire and invert it using a relay and check to see if you get the same result, or even just check it with your DMM and see under what circumstances you have continuity to ground.
  8. When I installed a trailer harness on mine, I used the 7 pin RV receptacle. I know it is over kill for most people, but the reason I suggest it is that you can always buy simple adaptors to step down to 6 way, 5 round, 5 flat, or 4 flat trailer harnesses. You cant go the other direction without some rewiring. I have an electric trailer brake controller installed also that you cant put on the receptacles besides the 7 pin. You will have to get a module to turn the pathy's separate stop and turn lights into a stop/turn combination. I purchased a UHaul unit. Search for Slicks How to post on this.
  9. What year pathy is this? They changed wire colors every year...bastids... Without knowing what year this is, it appears you have it hooked up properly so far. From what I gathered of your install instructions, Yellow wire #5 on 5 pin harness should only supply 12V+ when the unit has remoted started your car. Right now I would guess the remote start module is malfunctioning if it immediately supplies power to wire 5 as soon as you supply power to the unit. Let me know what year you have and I will try and help some more. I would recommend searching around http://www.the12volt.com/ They had several helpful posts when I was installing this on my car.
  10. I installed a Viper remote start/keyless entry system on my '97 last winter. I could offer some help, but I am a little confused as to where you are in this.
  11. Could you elaborate on that? That doesn't make sense to me.

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