kmgar99

Hey Beatup96, is it a 3.0 or 3.3?

I used Poly in all mine...The lower arm front and rear bolts were a PITA...had to sawzall them off and replace the bolts...other than that it was fairly easy...

I would have kept at it, but it had to be up and running this morning. Really hard to get to the back of the engine with a 3" lift and 32" tires...i'm not as spry as i used to be!! I'll go at it agin in a few weeks when i have more than four hours to do it....After all the work i've done to this truck myself over the last 15 years, two hoses stopped me!!!!!!

Precise1 - Those were them! The clips are smaller than the flanged ends of the pipe the hoses fit over so you can't move the clip far enough away that the hoses can come off.

Tried to replace my knock sensor on my 96....two F'in hoses i couldn't get off....gave up, put it all back together. guess i'll have to order a harness and relocate it. At least i got to be in the garage drinking all day!! Yah me

Here's how i made the cardboard template Pull the strut completely, Then using a piece of carboard, Drop the carboard on top of Part#54320 (refer to fleurys post above) and tap the cardboard with a wood block so the bolts on part #54322 make indents on the cardboard. Cut out the indents for the bolts and place over the bolts. Here's the tricky part...The outer edges of the center hole to the center of the bolts is about 5/8", measure in 5/8" from the CENTER of the bolts and mark the cardboard, Then use a compass to draw a circle connecting these marks and cut out the circle. The circle should be about 4 1/16" diameter. Drop the cardboard over the bolts and trim to match the outside edges....bring the template to your friend and see if he can make one. I had to make three or four cardboard ones until i was happy with the way it lined up

The wood was a template i used to make the aluminum ones i have. It's not a basic shape that can be measured and simply drawn out...

I'm replacing mine this weekend...wish i'd seen this relocation post earlier! Oh well...i'll replace it and relocate if it fails again. I get my parts from RockAuto.com...$56 for knock sensor and plenum gasket out the door shipped.

I feel like an idiot! It was the starter!! In 20 years of working on cars i've never had a starter not give some sort of strange noise. (click, grind whine...something) A good smack with a plastic mallet while the wife started it and whala! Only wish i didn't need to have it up and running by today. $150 for a rebuilt at a local parts store when i could have had one shipped to me from RockAuto for $80 (Shipping and tax included) oh well at least i knopw all the relays are good and so is every fuse, harness, connector, ignition switch...etc...

Oh ya, i disconnected the negative termional at the battery for an hour as well - didn't help

Spent the morning cleaning the 97 and now it wont start. Won't crank. All lights work, 12.7 volts at battery, voltage drop when trying turning key to start is less than 1 volt! Headlights don't even dim when turning key to Start! Checked all fuses - all good - Charged battery - no help - tried to jump - no help. Tried every combo of lock and unlock i can think of...still nothing. I have the shop manual, and i will try and trace all the voltage to see where i might have a problem. Anyone had this problem before?

On the bolt sizes...i wish i remembered but since i did them back in 04...I used a tap and die set to get the sizes then ordered them through Grainger in Grade 8. You can also go to a hardware store and have them check the size for you....as long as the thickness and length are correct it really doesn't matter what the thread sizes are...i used SAE (non metric) bolts. I had to hack off the old ones so they were useless. Small write up on how i got the old ones out and the new ones in Rear Bushings

Wifey = 2004 Volvo S40 LSE My Daily Driver = 2007 Sentra SER Spec-V