hookemdevils22

Here's a clarification for you guys from that last post. In the last month I have: -Replaced my starter. -Replaced 2 tires because I got 2 flats in a matter of 2 weeks. -Had an intermittent knock and horrible gas mileage. -Had my transmission puke on me just before Thanksgiving. -Had the company shipping my transmission (USF Reddaway, 1st and last time I use them) miss their target date by 4 days. -Had the trans shop tell me they wouldn't be able to get to my truck for another week. -Been charged for a trans removal AND install, which is being disputed. -Been shipped the wrong window lift motor for the second straight time. -Been bumming rides off roommates and friends to school and work because I am in college and have one vehicle. It has been 2+ weeks since I have had a vehicle. I have spent $2000+, money which I actually do not have. I'm selling my truck just to pay for all of this. You are telling me you wouldn't be a little pissed off too? As for the last post, to anyone I may have upset: as Chuck Powell would say, if you have taken offense to anything I have said today, there is a simple explanation: you are that guy. Trev

Exactly how difficult is it to send the FRONT LEFT (DRIVER'S SIDE) WINDOW LIFT MOTOR ASSEMBLY? I've had two (2) instances in which I have been shipped the PASSENGER SIDE ASSEMBLY. How stupid are you people? Is it that difficult to MAKE SURE YOU SEND THE CORRECT PART? Jesus &^%*@$# Christ. If you aren't a &^%*@$# moron, and you have the FRONT LEFT WINDOW LIFT MOTOR ASSEMBLY for a 94 Pathfinder for sale, please contact me. How do you tell if it is the FRONT LEFT WINDOW LIFT MOTOR, you ask? Well, it's quite simple my friend. The FRONT LEFT WINDOW LIFT MOTOR ASSEMBLY features an 'L' etched on the regulator. If it has an 'R' on it, THIS IS NOT THE FRONT LEFT ASSEMBLY. IT IS THE FRONT RIGHT. To those selling parts - PLEASE, FOR ALL OUR SAKE: THINK. Thank you. Trev

i've got a 94 2WD pathy with an auto trans in it (well, not currenty, but that's why i'm posting). has anyone done a tranny install on these? i found something on 4WDs, but nothing for 2WDs, and there wasn't a whole lotta info there. the trans is aready out, but the shop says they won't be able to touch it for at least a week. because it's my sole mode of transportation, i'd like to get it up and running by the weekend. i've got a tranny jack, a bunch of tools, and some time, but i was wondering about how long it would take and if there are any tricks i need to know. thanks, Trev

a tapered roller bearing's two races are called the 'cone' (inner) and 'cup' (outer). my guess is that the only difference is the quality (i.e., warranty). one must not feature the outer race, which should be replaced with the bearing. i know that checker features skf bearings which often don't have the outer cup on tapered designs. if the guy was smart he would have pulled them both off the shelf, taken off the cup, and examined both, side to side. don't go to advance anyway, they're terrible. go to some place semi respectable please.

i know what you mean. its been in the 50s (°F) here in phoenix, and i'm seriously thinking about heading south to a warmer climate. i can't stand the cold...

That's a great idea. I had to change my starter a few weeks ago, which I'm sure oil changes had a part in. I love how someone actually thought it would be a good idea to put the filter right above the starter. Like it would be OK to dump oil all over an electrical component (which is a b*tch to get out, btw) every 3000 miles. Damn engineers.

check the voltage to the radio. if you don't get 12V, it has a tendency to blink like that, esp. when you put a cd in.

which also reminds me that i should do that to my pathy. . . i've been having trouble w/ the front driver's side window, and i think that'd be better to try first than buying a new motor assembly. i've used spray-on white lithium in the past on other trucks, and it seems to work pretty well. i'd buy the silicone spray though.

i'm sure you could get it kickin for less than a grand - then turn around and sell it for twice what you've got in it (and that's being conservative). at the very least, you've got a kickin truck for really cheap. it's definately well worth it.

yea, i probably fixed it accidentally. i actually noticed a slight pinging the next day, so it seems to be an intermittent problem.

recently i've found that my gas mileage has gone to sh!t in my 94 pathy. i lost about 2 mpg on the last 2 tanks, and noticed that it began pinging around the same time. i've been driving more in-city miles, so i expected a slight drop in mpg. however, when plus gas didn't help the pinging issue one bit, i began to suspect something. i checked the timing - perfect. however, while doing so, i noticed what sounded like arcing at idle (like what a spark plug sounds like when you hold it up to the block, but a little louder). i checked connections (which were ok), and i checked the plugs to see if they had loosened (it could be described as a compression leak, such as when you have an exhuast leak), but they were tight. i isolated the problem to under the intake manifold (it wasn't the exhaust, i'm sure of that), but couldn't for the life of me figure out where it was coming from. finally, i decided to check the ecu for any fault codes. after getting 55 (no problems), i noticed that the sound went away. so i took her for a quick spin, and noticed absolutely no pinging. whatever was happening, resetting the ecu was the fix. just an fyi to try for anyone having a similar problem.

if your battery's weak/dead, it won't turn over period. weak batteries will get starter chatter (which is horrible for the starter, btw), while dead ones will get nothing. however, if it turns over but fails to start, the battery is ok. check fuel/ingnition/vacuum. all the alt. does is charge the battery and run the electrical components while the engine is running. it has nothing to do with no start conditions if it turns over. from what it sounds like, your timing got out of whack when the rotor came loose, and it shut down. because your distributor didn't move in relation to the crank, all you need to do is replace the rotor/screw assembly (and cap if it's cracked). the timing should be fine.

found the problem - the amp was definately cashed. i think it's because i threw a pool floatie in my whip before protecting the amp. it must have gotten water damage. anyway, i sent the amp to Amp Repair Center to get it fixed and replaced the fuse. the a/c and cigarette lighter both work now, and i'm waiting on the amp. i checked my chilton's, but it didn't say anything about the a/c being connected to the cigarette lighter, and the fusebox even had the radio and a/c on the same fuse. odd. anyway that fixed my problem

i've been thinking of putting thorley's on my 94 xe with an auto trans, but i could find little info on headers for my app. i'll probably get a flowmaster, but i'm seriously considering the dynomax now. also, does anyone know of any good muffler shops around phoenix? i wouldn't go with a down-turn unless you like the noise. i've got dual flowmaster 40s on my 71 nova that feature about a foot of pipe total (6" or so before the mufflers, 6" and a down-turn after), and it's absolutely loud as hell. of course, it's got a slightly warmed-over small-block, but i really noticed a difference when we went to that setup, even though we kept the same mufflers. i can also smell exhaust when stopped, so take that into consideration.

i've actually got that exact same problem with my 94. i noticed the other day that my ac went out and my amp won't work (it's hooked to the cigarette lighter for the switch). i've been battling with it for a while now, and can't figure it out for the life of me.