adamzan

Good question, one of mine got dinged by a careless idiot in a parking long, I hammered it back straight but of course it started to rust where that happened.

It's 28oz... Basically if the system was fully empty and you put two whole of the regular sized (not the taller ones) in, you'll be right within spec.

Honestly, this still sounds like alignment, perhaps not enough caster. I know on the wd21s when you lift them it is common to put as much positive caster as you can so it doesn't wander on the highway or on rough roads. I am not sure how much adjustment the r50 has on that, though.

Like Slartibartfast said you need to remove the face of the hub first, then slide it on, and the snap ring goes on the outer groove on the stub shaft, vs the inner groove with auto hubs. Then it will look like this once on and you can put the snap ring back. This is from an Xterra board, but it is the exact same process (I own a wd21 and a wd22). https://www.clubxterra.org/threads/how-to-replacing-stock-auto-locking-hubs-with-manual-locking-hubs.8356/

The AT oil temp light comes on at some ridiculously high temperature IIRC. If it comes on something is really wrong lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work, just make sure you put the grease zerks in those tie rod ends, and give them a few pumps of lube so they don’t fill with dirt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1993 would be the last year of the square dash. Could be an option for the diesel ones overseas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My old 95 did that too. It seems the momentary bump in N is enough to kick up the line pressure to have it engage... Never lost the forward gears the entire time I owned it. Just learned to live with it the way it was.

If they are the same as the one on my 2002 Xterra (I assume they're very similar) you won't have to reprogram if you remove it but if you replace it you definitely will. I replaced mine after a bad overcharging alternator killed it. Had to reprogram both fobs. Removing it will disable the alarm, remote locks (maybe power locks all together), dome lights, the ability to roll the windows up and down with the key off before you open the doors. All that "stuff". Unplugging it to inspect it wouldn't be any different to it than disconnecting the battery under the hood.

I find it hard to believe they couldn't find a new grille or hood or headlights. The brush guard, sure. TBH I would just straighten it out or get rid of it entirely.

If you are removing the alarm, I will buy all the parts from you (horn, remotes, module and harness), I’ll give you a blank where the switch currently is as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

31s were a factory tire size (they all used the same ride height though) so you should be perfectly fine with 33x10.50. Stepping up to anything wider requires a body lift or trimming.

I would avoid moog branded upper ball joints if you can. They are absolute trash on this platform (and apparently moog parts now just suck in general). The AC Delco greasable ones have treated me well for years now.

It could but usually only when warm. Have you tested the fuel pressure with a gauge? I also had a bad coolant temp sensor cause mine to have hard starts.

Yep, gotta press or burn the old bushings out. It is a pain in the ass. I got lucky and scored an already pulled set from a part out last time.

No problem. And like @gamellott said the poly bushings always seem to squeak unless you buy the right lube... For a truck there isn't really any benefit other than making the ride slightly more jarring and uncomfortable.

If you're going to save the OE axles to reboot yourself later on, may as well use this rockford ones. That is what I did 13 years ago and I actually pull the axles off the truck to put on my current wd21 (when the time comes, it doesn't get driven much). The boots still look and feel like they did back then. http://www.rockfordcv.com/Nissan_bootkits.htm

Imagine 40 hours for a clutch job... The book time to re&re the transmission is something like 10 or 11 hours... Were they machining the flywheel by hand? If you are up for a project you can try and replace the boots yourself, like Slart said it isn't a fun job and is quite messy. But if you want to save those oem axles, probably worth it. The aftermarket ones are OK, and they make some extended travel ones now that would be good if you plan on offroading it or lifting it.

Learned that lesson, mine weren't welded hot enough apparently. Noticed one of them was broke off the other day...

It's pretty easy, take the horn pad off and then there's a big nut to undo, I've been able to just pull them off without a puller every time. Not sure what else would fit but maybe a maxima from the same era would be nice if it did.

If insurance wants to write it off, you can definitely buy it back from them and fix it yourself. I have a nearly complete parts truck just outside of Ottawa if you need something. Glad you are ok though. fskc, I barely drive my wd21 anymore mainly because I'm scared of this happening.

How old is your radiator. I had numerous issues with our r50 running too warm at higher speed/load and it was the radiator. The old one was full of scale even though the truck had regular coolant flushes most of it's life!

ACDelco kit on rock auto is the one you want, comes with everything.

I think if you don't put the resistor in it will remain on all the time when the truck is off because of how little power LEDs use. The "ghost power" that remains when the system is off is enough to dimly light them sometimes. @Slartibartfastcan correct me on this.

Glad to see you're still around, Garrett!