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adamzan last won the day on January 4

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About adamzan

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  • Birthday October 15

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1994 SE-V6Mods:3" PA Body lift3" SL (AC springs and AC UCA)ARB Front bar.Infinity speakers, sub and kenwood deck with bluetooth.Cold air intakeExternal Transmission cooler, filter and Temp gauge.Deep Cycle BatterySport Rack roof basketAVS VentvisorsTrailer Hitch modded for body lift.33x12.5x15 Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac tires on Cragar Soft 8 wheels31x10.5x15 Goodyear Wrangler Territory tires on stock lego rims (street wheels)And some other stuff.1995 SE-V6Winter ride. Bone Stock and rusty.
  • Place of Residence
    Ottawa Ontario, Canada
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
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    Ottawa Ontario, Canada
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  1. Check your fuel pressure, make sure the lines aren't leaking or anything.
  2. Re-booted OEM ones are the strongest. Otherwise I've never had an issue with the trackmotive ones. I had a defective casting once but was warrantied and no issues since.
  3. That would be cool, the caster/camber is such a PITA to set. I just get it "close enough" to where it is at least even on both sides.
  4. The centerlink and idler arm. I've only ever had to replace one set of tie rods and those were the original 1995 ones. And I only replaced the loose ones as they wore. I think I still have one original tie rod. Since you've got the RC arms like I do you won't go through tons of upper ball joints like the 4x4parts UCAs. Just make sure to use good parts and keep them lubed. After upgrading the CL I find the front end is pretty stout. Rebuilding the idler arm every other season is a pretty small price to pay. Grease those UCA bushings at every oil change.
  5. A stock CL at my local parts house in Canada is over $250 (I get a commercial discount so I wouldn't pay that, but still). So in my mind it's an easy decision. The stock one would last a month worth of only driving when I lifted the truck. The idler and CL would start twisting and wear out very fast. You don't have to do it now, try the truck out and see how it feels. Maybe it'll be fine, but I never had good luck with it.
  6. If you are planning on wheeling the truck, I would strongly suggest this as your next upgrade: https://www.grassroots4x4.com The stock one does not play nice with suspension lifts. As well as an idler arm brace. Then your steering is pretty much bombproof.
  7. Oh crap, I thought you meant the ones holding it to the frame. Yeah, I had those nuts loosen on me as well. Throw a little loctite on there.
  8. Do the threads have good engagement? How much of the bolt is threading in? You may want to get longer ones. M14x1.5x60mm instead of 50mm. A little loctite won't hurt.
  9. Nightmare is an understatement lol. I helped the last mechanic do mine. It still took 4 hours of adjust, drive around the block to settle the bars, recheck, etc.
  10. You’ll need a long philips head screwdriver to reach the bottom of the box. There might be a piece of rubber or something at the bottom blocking access to the holes. The box with the cup holders slides into the console but is screwed in so the screws hold it and the console down. Does that make sense?
  11. Mine easily saw 20-24mpg when I drive it cross country.
  12. That is fskced up man. I was in that area last summer. One member of NPORA in prince george told me not to stop for anyone on the side of the road.
  13. Not the exact same truck but I was able to bring my 2002 Xterra Supercharged from 14mpg mixed to 17city 22 highway just by replacing the o2 sensors. They were the originals but not throwing codes. They do get "lazy" over time.
  14. This is why I stick with the clutch fan. It works and has never let me down.
  15. Slart, the XE ones just had a sticker on the visor. My old truck was like that.

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