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PwninOBrien

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Everything posted by PwninOBrien

  1. Depending on how long the battery was disconnected, you may need to do the idle air volume learning procedure. If you're still having the problem then I would troubleshoot or replace the MAF. Also, the 2003 models have the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor built into the MAF sensor. EDIT: I'm an idiot, I just read that you did the relearning procedures. I would start by troubleshooting the MAF.
  2. I'm a tard, I just realized that you said rack and not cargo basket. The second fairing in my pictures is 5" tall, so you may want to just measure from the top of the load bar to the roof just to be sure. You also don't want the fairing to be flat (where the distance from the top of the load bar and the roof is 5" exactly) since it will pretty much negate any benefit of a fairing. I think their fitment guide is extremely generic and it doesn't work well when it comes to accessories.
  3. You want this fairing.. not this one... right? You can get the first one through Yakima directly, it's considered a replacement part and not an accessory.
  4. Those are some serious lights you have there, 500W and 550W lol Where did you get them? A baseball field? haha
  5. Join us for the largest Nissan / Infiniti / Datsun convention in North America! June 3-6, 2010. Formerly known as the National SE-R Convention, NICOclub.com has stepped up the size of this convention for 2010 - It's now open to all Nissan motorsports enthusiasts. Events will include two days of on-track action: Road course, drifting, drag racing, rallycross, a car show, awards, vendors, raffle prizes, a catered picnic and more, all at the world-class Mid America Motorplex - just 20 minutes from downtown Omaha. Take a look at the Convention website, read about the history of this event and check out the track layout: http://www.nissanconvention.com I hope you'll all make an effort to come out and experience the ultimate Nissan enthusiast event! Please feel free to contact any of us if you have questions, comments, or just want to say HI! torry@nicoclub.com - Events Coordinator becky@nicoclub.com - Business Manager greg@nicoclub.com - President / CEO p.s. The Nissan Convention is on Facebook, too! http://www.facebook....eid=93199585947
  6. I should also point out that one benefit that the mechanical fan has over an electric fan is the shroud. The shroud allows the mechanical fan to spread out it's CFM's evenly over the entire radiator. The ideal setup would be to have two fans with a custom shroud, although it's not very economical. As long as you can cover most of the vertical channels in the radiator then you should be fine. I recommend getting the largest possible fans; I think the last time I checked the R50 has 27 5/8" of finned area, which is just small enough to prevent the use of 14" fans, unless you figure out some way to mount them to the radiator safely.
  7. Well you really have to look at it this way, when the stock fan is at 100% duty cycle is when there is very little air flow through the radiator fins (idling/city driving). During these low RPM's scenarios the fan spins at a fairly slow speed, thus pulling very little CFM's. I would not recommend an electric fan conversion if the vehicle is used for hauling since that requires high RPM's at slow speeds. This could also be seen as a negative when off-roading, since normally you use the lower gears (with higher RPM's) at slow speeds. The key is to use a fan with the highest possible CFM's with the most radiator coverage. Now the 12" perma-cool fans are rated on Jegs and Summit at 3,300CFM at 2,400RPM's; two of these on the radiator would pull a total of 6,600CFM at any point. This means that even at idle, you would be pulling more CFM's than the stock fan at the higher duty cycles. Most dual fan controllers have a relay for A/C hookup. Both fans should turn on at the pre-determined temperature, however when you have the A/C on then one fan should always be on. Like shift220 said, most likely if you're running the A/C then both fans will be on from the increase in coolant temperature. One thing that should also be noted is that you need to make sure your electrical system can handle an extra 20+ amps; if you have a lot of electrical accessories running at the same time as the fans then the last thing you want to experience a brown-out is your cooling system.
  8. I have a couple of extensive write-ups on this on NICO. Here's a short version of the write-up... Go with two fans, a custom shroud setup will be too expensive and won't be much more beneficial than a two-fan setup (versus a single fan setup). The largest fan size for a dual-fan setup on the R50 radiator is two 12" fans. Your best bet is to go with something like two Perma-cool high performance electric fans, as said above, it won't be cheap. After getting two fans and a dual controller you're looking at about $250. The perma-cool fans will cool much better than the stock fan and should and will provide more than adequate cooling. You can use two single controllers or a single dual controller, it really depends on what you want to use. The temperature measurement location really depends on which controller you buy, there are kinds that you stick in the fins and there is the kind that goes into the drain plug or on other radiator orifices. Obviously the kind that uses a probe that you stick in the fins is less efficient but they are much more common. Your best best is to wire one fan to turn on automatically when the A/C is on and then both turn on at a specific temperature. You can purchase variable speed fans and controllers (Flex-a-lite sells some) but you would be looking at shelling out some serious money (around $500) so I would suggest sticking with some standard ON/OFF fans. I haven't done the conversion yet but that is the next mod on the list. If I complete the conversion I will definitely take some detailed pics and some instructions. It it super easy to complete the conversion and should take no more than a single afternoon.
  9. I highly recommend Magnaflow over Flowmaster. Flowmasters are more for sound than performance whereas the Magnaflows are flow-through and not baffled like the Flowmasters. As far as backpressure is concerned, you want to use pipe as close to the factory diameter as possible. Most exhaust shops would recommend going no more than 1/2" larger; any larger and you start to lose EGV's and you will start losing low-end torque.
  10. You would be hard-pressed to find any shop with a mandrel bender, they are far too expensive. You can always buy pre-bent pipe and take it to the shop and they can cut it up and make it work. Unless you buy a pre-made system then you're probably stuck with a crush-bent system. I suggest Magnaflow mufflers, they have a great warranty and are made of stainless steel. If you get stainless pipe then the exhaust system will outlast the car (except for the hangers).
  11. K&N makes an intake kit specifically for the R50 Pathfinder.Link: K&N Pathfinder FIPK
  12. You'll need to first reset the ECU, then complete the Idle Air Volume relearning procedure as well as Throttle Valve Close Position re-learning and Accelerator Released Position re-learning. They are all very simple and yes, all can be found in my posts on nicoclub.
  13. Since you installed the intake is your idle now higher than 750 RPM's? If that's the case then the DTC is for the high idle and you need to reset the ECU and do the re-learning procedures. On your 2003 there isn't a screw method, but rather a pedal method where you reset the ECU via a series of accelerator pedal presses. I also have the K&N intake on my 2003 Pathfinder, I ran into the same problem with the two vacuum inlets on the K&N intake tube. I spoke to the engineering staff at K&N and it turns out that the extra vacuum inlet is not necessary for the 2003 and 2004 Pathfinder. It is simply a vacuum line that was removed after the 2002 models. I would just recommend putting a bypass cap over the extra inlet.
  14. I definitely wouldn't recommend removing the intake resonator if you have the stock air box on the vehicle. This will direct all air suction to the fender well and that will be no good, especially if you don't have a skid plate or fender liner. I would only remove the intake resonator if you have a conical filter installed that can pull air from other sources besides the fender well. Some people have used a flexible pipe to set up "ram" air", directing the air from the plastic louvers next to the fog lights up into the air filter compartment.
  15. Yeah, I just picked up a pump (the plunger type with the clear hose) from Advance Auto and it did the job perfectly. It does take some time going back and forth filling up the pump and then pumping it into the transfer.
  16. I don't see how the mechanic could foreshadow the death of your engine just from a simple ticking noise. Somebody please tell me if I'm crazy or if I'm missing something here.
  17. I've only ever seen this issue on VQ's, primarily on the 2001's. I'm sure there's at least one rubber seal inside the VG's oil cooler so I'm sure it could happen but this is really prevalent in the VQ's for some reason. The large o-ring gets a rectangular notch in it which allows oil to leak past the seal.
  18. No, there is no difference between the 2WD or 4WD models. The two vehicles which differ are the A/T and M/T models (M/T models do not have the oil cooler at all). Two and a half hours of labor is outrageous; the Nissan tech probably spent a total of 30mins. on the entire job.
  19. Cracked? Of all of the instances of leaky oil coolers on an R50 I've seen or head of, this would be the first cracked oil cooler. About 99% of the time the larger o-ring inside the cooler will get a notch in it which allows oil to leak from the cooler. Is it engine oil or coolant which is leaking from the cooler (I can't really tell from the pics)? If it's oil, then you can buy $7 in o-rings and have the job done in an hour (no need to drain coolant, only oil needs changing). If you actually do need to replace the cooler then you can still have it replaced in an hour, most of the time will be spent doing a coolant flush/fill. EDIT: Also, a replacement oil cooler from CourtesyParts is only $260
  20. That is your oil cooler leaking coolant or oil. It's a simple (and cheap repair). Usually you just need to replace two o-rings inside. A pretty simple DIY job.
  21. I bought the one from Nissan and it covers EVERYTHING. It covers the sides of the cargo area, the seat backs and everything else. It's pretty big and it might be pricey but it definitely does the job.
  22. I had to replace my fuel filter bracket about five months ago because I had the same exact problem. I just bought a new bracket from the dealer for $20. I figure this is probably a part I'll have to replace every several years.
  23. This should do . The easy method really is easier, so I would try that first. RESET ECU 1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds. 2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking). 5. Wait about 10 seconds. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. EASY METHOD 1. Ignition "ON", count to 3. 2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast. 3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal 4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal 5. Count to 10, depress pedal 6. Count to 10, release pedal. 7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!
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