AssBeard

It is easy. For me it was easy-ish, but that's because I am almost useless as a wrench-turner. The hardest part was the nylon (hard white plastic) alignment/retainer clips on either side of the bumper, which was also the only thing the Haynes manual forgot to mention. They were pictured in the service manual, though I didn't think to check it until the job was already done. D'oh!

Well, I buttoned the front end back up and took a look at my MAF sensor. Man, that thing was dirty. No telling when it was cleaned last (or if it's ever been cleaned). I filled up yesterday and have started clocking mileage. I will keep you guys updated.

I use Mobil1 Synthetic 5w-30 every 3000-6000 miles or so.

OKC Metro here!

I am going to try the MAF sensor cleaning this weekend. I will let you all know if it helps as soon as I button up the front and start driving it again (I am currently doing a bumper trim swap).

I know this is a relatively old thread, but I too am now looking aggressively for new wheels for my 97 SE. Here are the ones I'm looking at currently: U.S. Wheel 94 Series The quick specs: 15x7 6x5.5in bolt pattern +12mm offset 4.5in backspacing 4.28in center bore diameter By reading this thread I can see that (in theory) these bad boys will fit. I'm all set to buy them but I want your expert opinions on them. FYI, I'm not planning on putting huge tires on them....some stock size/profile tires will do as it's just my wife's DD. I have some specific questions: -What size lug nuts do I need? I could go home and measure, but I want to order them ASAP since the tires she's on now are almost bald -How far will they stick out (given the +12mm offset)? -Will I need hubcentric adapters? -Will the (much) heavier weight be an issue when braking (stopping distance) or gas mileage is concerned? Thanks in advance for the help, guys. One year later and I'm still a truck/SUV/4WD NOOB!!!!!!!!

Shoot, I think you're right. For some reason I've always thought they were 16's but since it's my old lady's car I've never paid too much attention. My bad.

Did this transaction go down? I am interested as well. I also have 16" SE Alloys from a 97. Will your bling-bling wheels accomodate the 4x4 hubs on my Pathy?

I have about 124K miles on mine, along with a significant passenger side exhaust manifold crack/leak. I get about 14.3 mpg in the city. I noticed a significant improvement when I removed my roof rack, and an insignificant improvement when I removed my spare tire and swing gate off the rear. I'm hoping to see an improvement once I finally get the dough to replace that exhaust manifold leak.

Well, I got it done at the new Bob Moore off I-35 in Norman, but it was from one of their courtesy card things they sent me. I just called them, told them I had a card and scheduled an appointment. They are doing them through the end of the month. They never asked for my card....even if they ask to see your card you could just tell them you left it at home or something. Unfortunately, last time I checked there are no available headers for R50's. Local shops won't do custom jobs either because they know about the infamous usually-seized Nissan studs.

Yeah, that's what I figured. I don't really know what any of that stuff even is though. I mean....what is a "thermal wax element"? The tires are worn and the belts probably need to be replaced. The other stuff I'm still skeptical of. You guys know much more about these cars than I do, so what other things from that list (specifically) should be done?? I have to get this beast into tip-top shape before my baby comes. This is my old lady's daily driver and she'll be hauling around the lil' dude in it so it needs to be as close to perfect as reasonably possible.

When I got my 97 at 120,000 miles the first thing I did was remove the OEM step rails. They were both badly rusted. Personally, I like the look of the Pathy without them. But I am not an off-roader.

Hey guys, I took advantage of Nissan's lovely "Absolutely Free 100-Point Spectacular Courtesy Inspection Check-Up" at the brand new dealership here in Okie. As could be predicted, they found quite a few things that need to be fixed/replaced. I know very little about cars, so I'd like to know what out of these things is legit and what is bogus. Also, anything you can tell me about the parts, replacement, costs, etc etc would be greatly appreciated. Here is what they gave me: -Thermal Wax Pellet/Element - $421 -Tires, BF Goodrich - $653.72 -Valve Cover leaking oil - $556.16 -Belts cracking - $145 -LEFT CV Axle Boot - $270 -RIGHT CV Axle Boot - $270 -Coolant Flush - $135 -Rear Main - $1060 -Oil Flush - $125 -Fuel Induction - $155 -Rear Differential Service - $95 -Front Differential Service - $95 What's funny is that they didn't mention anything about the loud as hell, annoying passenger side exhaust manifold leak. What does all the stuff on that list mean? Besides the obvious fluid flushes, tires, etc. P.S. The whip is a 97 SE 4WD with about 124,000 miles. Unfortunately, I got the car with 120,000 so it doesn't qualify for the exhaust manifold recall/TSB.

Just got this message from RockAuto....I'm sure most of you have seen it before: "Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you. Your discount code is: 491703417827 The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices, and there's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks. This discount code expires on November 7, 2006; so don't wait! " I figured some of you might want to use this code. I know I will be using it soon.....'bout to order me some chrome bumper trim pieces and passenger side exhaust manifold (infamous R50 problem). Anyone that gets a code in the future can post it up here so we can always get Rock Auto discounts. Boo yah!

From what I can see, my leather was glued on......I still don't know if that's OEM-style or if the previous owner did a ghetto-self-fix job. I tried to re-glue the leather back on and just made a big nasty mess so I went ahead and ordered a new leather wrapped knob assembly (including the buttons) from the stealership.....$129.....I actually thought it was going to be hella more expensive so I guess I should be satisfied. I still feel a slight pain in my rectum though... :sniff: