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Everything posted by 5523Pathfinder

  1. Well, I don't know what's up with his website, but here is some business info I found http://www.manta.com/c/mtcd0mf/grassroots-4x4-llc Maybe a call and see what's what.
  2. If your pulling the whole front timing cover, you might as well replace all the timing chain guides and tensioners.
  3. The only place around here that a 2wd would do ok is Tahuya. I have wheeled with guys who lost 4wd on the trail and yeah, it's not fun but we help to get them out. If you go wheeling in a 2wd, please bring recovery equipment. Straps, chains, hi-lift, winch, whatever you may need to have someone give you a tug out. Nobody likes the guy who gets stuck and has nothing to help resuce him.
  4. Yes, there are much worse. How about the Subaru ring of fire?
  5. Much like all the other runs, we need to make sure we have a trail leader that is familiar with the trails and area. I'm not opposed to Evans again, but I don't know the area very well. As a example, I seem to be leading the way at both Tahuya and Elbe on a more common basis and Im pretty comfortable with it. Hopefully some other members will wanna jump in and give their two cents. Maybe we should change the title of this thread to NPORA/Mr.Jim run 2015....
  6. Elbe is my favorite! Your definitely going to need to watch your steering components as they will wear fast. I recommend a Grassroots centerlink, as mine has been awesome!
  7. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25358-how-many-miles-are-on-your-pathfinder/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/1987-pathfinder-mileage-poll/
  8. A bunch of us northwest members have met up and wheeled together from time to time. I hope more ring in and can go!
  9. You've also got to remember that a lot of members have come and gone. Who knows what the dominate age is at the moment.
  10. You'd think with his age there should be another 1 in that number!
  11. Welcome! Glad you found our site! Yes, there is lots of information on how to keep your pathy alive. Rust is one of the few things that can kill them. As for your smell. I'm going to stay on the rust issue. There has been many reports of the floor pan right under the gas pedal rotting away. The catalytic conver is right underneath. As the carpet, backing and sound deadening material burns away, it can give a pretty bad smell off. It's easy to inspect by pulling the carpet back and feel around. I recommend doing this when the rig is cold. You may also wanna check for any water leaks that have soaked the carpet. It can be a bear to get it all to dry. You may need to pull the seats and all the carpet out and clean the floor with a good cleaner. This would also give you a good chance to inspect the entire floor and look for rust and any other issues. If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask!
  12. Welcome! So does it crank over or not? Sounds like not, but I just wanna be sure before I point you in a certain direction.
  13. Your welcome. We try not to yell at people and just tell them to use the search function, mostly because it sucks. But there are lots of CB threads. It's hard to point a person in one direction because there are so many. Doing a little digging will be able to show how different people did it. Some members may not ring in as they aren't around anymore. Yes, selecting the titles only helps a ton! Good luck and let us know how you did it.
  14. There are lots of CB radio threads and pics from other members rigs. here is a link to take you to the search. Type in cb radio or antenna, then select titles only. You should get a long page of threads! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1
  15. I have a Optima that I have had since 2004. It's been killer. Saved my butt when my alternator died on the trail. The newer Optimas have a bad rep for failing early. I'd say it's 50/50 chance either way. I have heard awesome things about Odyssey batteries.. http://www.odysseybattery.com
  16. This is a question that has been asked if all model pathfinders. For the most part, it is probably easier to just go out and buy/trade for a 4wd version. That's not the answer most want to hear, but when it comes down to keeping things factory, the cost can get kinda high. Some have done it and I'm not telling you your shouldn't, but it's your money and time. For the most part, you will probably need a transmission and transfer case. The wiring should be there fo the transfer case, but it may be different. You will probably need different contort units as they need to talk to each other to know what systems on on the vehicle. This may include the ECM, ABS/VDC module, trans control unit(inside transmission) and possibly some others. Then you run into a few sensor issues as your adding a front differential. The transfer case engaging switch in the dash and associated parts. You would have to double check to make sure the gears in the rear match(which may have to be swapped also). The list could get bigger as you put things together. Now, if you were going custom, that's a whole different ball of wax. You could find different axles and fab stuff up(if you have those skills) to save money. I think there is a SAS's r51 out there somewhere, but your going to have to dig to find it. A lot of people try something this ambitious at tie s and then give up on it. Then the rig sits for years and eventually is given up on, sold or sent to the scrap yard. This is just my 2 cents. Maybe someone else will ring in with another opinion.
  17. Hello my fellow PNW's! Well, its that time again for another October wheelin day. This is the time when we had held the MrJim runs in the past. I'm not trying to make this a big huge thing. I thought I would throw it out there to see if anyone wants to go wheel, just meet up and have some BS'ing time, whatever. If you have any other ideas, post 'em up! Let me know what you all think. I'm tentatively planning this for October 10-11th. I've had a great time meeting other members and getting to know some more than others! Derek
  18. It should plug right into your headlight plug then connect to the battery. If it's like mine, it will only use one headlamp connector. This is the harness I used, sorry I don't have a better one at the moment,
  19. Spray some penetrant(pb blaster, ect) on it, let it sit for a few then try and twist it back and fourth a little. That should get the penetrant passed the o-ring. Then a small screwdriver under it to pry it up.
  20. If the spark plugs are that wet, they won't fire. It's called being fuel soaked. Cheap plugs will do that. NGK plugs are your best bet. You don't need to clear codes to start, but if you have a issue, you don't wanna chase the wrong thing. Replacing the distributor is as simple as setting the engine to TDC, remove the cap and make sure the rotor is pointing just before #1 on the cap. Disconnect the connector and pull the one bolt holding it in. It helps to make a mark with a high visibility where the rotor points so you can transfer it to the new distributor. After its unbolted, wiggle it straight up. Installation is the exact opposite.
  21. Sounds like some are pointing you int the right direction already. If you are concerned about grounding the spark plug during a test, go you your local parts store and purchase a in-line spark tester. They are fairly cheap and you will know if you have spark or not. You are going to need a bolt in that crank position sensor. Once you have a new sensor and bolt, reconnect everything, clear codes and try and start. If it doesn't start, you need to check codes again. Have you pulled spark plugs and see if they are wet? They may be wet if you've sprayed too much starting fluid in. Pull them all if they are wet and let them dry, or replace them(what brand are they?).
  22. Your mechanic couldn't do a power balance test? If one is going bad, you should have a misfire. I assume he pulled a code? That would be a great piece of information to have here. Three of the injectors are easy to get to on the passenger side. You can test them with a ohm meter and check the amount of resistance they have. Usually they have between 12-15 ohms if resistance. If any of them test higher or lower, then you found the issue. The other three are under the intake plenum, but can be tested at the fuel injector harness connector on top of the right valve cover. I recommend going into the Garage section and finding the link to download the factory service manual, then finding the injector test in the FE-FC section.
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