lyzic

Hi all, My father in law's truck is throwing code P1147, which is a heated oxygen sensor on bank 2. I'm going to buy a new O2 sensor, but I don't know if it's the rear passenger or rear driver's side. Can anyone tell me for certain? Appreciate it, thanks!

Hi, So I bought a bosal exhaust and bosal resonator to replace my rusted out stock stuff. I got it taken off fairly easily, except for one problem which is mystifying. Where I bolt the main exhaust on, just after the O2 sensors, there are 4 bolts. Are these bolts, or studs? Are they part of the original exhaust, or do they come off? I had to cut one off flush, and none of them won't move. Won't even budge a little. They're so rusted I can't even tell if they had heads on them to fit a ratchet anymore. I think I'll have to cut them out and put in bolts anyways, but looking for an answer so I know what I'm dealing with first. Thanks!

Just wondering if replacing the sensor fixed this problem for you, as I just had my Pathy do the exact same thing! Cheers

turning the dimmer doesn't have any effect it hasn't done anything to the brake or headlights, just killed the interior lights and the running lights daylight control module....i'll have to look into that..... hopefully it won't cost me $500!! eesh...

the other day my 2000 xe ran into a weird electrical problem i'm not even sure how it happened.... something happened...and now i don't have running lights in the back, and my interior dash lights don't work. fuses are all good. stereo works, headlights work, interior lights, fog lights, a/c works anyone have any idea what could be wrong, and what to check? i really have no idea

So I changed my tranny fluid and dropped the pan. Changed the filter, cleaned out the pan and the magnet. I scraped off the old gasket, and installed a cork one, the only one I could find because the first parts store sold me the wrong one. Drove around town, no problems. However I left on my roadtrip and then noticed that my transmission was leaking in a big way. Lost a liter or so in a couple liters, enough that when I stopped it'd drip, and my back window was covered in tranny fluid. Problem is I am thinking I overtightened the cork gasket. I haven't been able to find anyone on this site talking about the cork gaskets, so I'm unsure on how tight I should of tightened it. I assume it's overtightened, because I am used to the rubber gaskets. It was leaking more out of the side I originally thought was tight. I tightened up the other side pretty snug, and it started to leak a lot more. I didn't have a torque wrench so I'm unsure exactly how tight they are. Anyone have any advice? Can I back the bolts off and it'll fix itself? I read that cork gaskets soak up some oil and swell to complete the seal, maybe this'll work? Or is this gasket cooked since I overtightened it? Any advice is truly appreciated.

Thanks a ton for the replies. I think it may be overfilled to the extent of ~200mL by measuring what's left in my 10L jug. Now to my next project, replacing a clutch seal on my quad, 03 LTZ400! Gotta get them all working by tomorrow!

I installed the wiring Slick sold me (Thanks!!!) on my 2000 Pathy, and it's been working great ever since. I'll try to remember to write up a little how-to here

How does one drain the torque convertor then?

And I have a question... It was a bit of a pain in the ass day, since I had to leave twice on the bike to get the parts because the parts guy gave me the wrong pieces to change the tranny fluid and filter. Anyways, So I drained it as per the manual says in the maintenance section, a la the one drain bolt in the pan. I'm not sure how much exactly came out but somewhere close to 8L. I then measured approx. 8.5L (I spilled a little bit and my measuring cup turned on once) so give or take probably 300 mL and dumped it through the measuring tube. I then started the truck, let it sit for 30 seconds, and checked fluid levels which are way more full than the top of the hot reading. What I'm worried about is reading up now I see mention of the torque convertor, which I didn't separately drain, unless it's done with the main tranny pan drain bolt. I can't even find instructions in the maintenance part of the manual on how to do this? Please tell me that the one big drain in the pan is the only one. Also...to fine tune the amount of fluid I am guessing I am going to have to take a bit out. Anyone have a refined technique for this, other than dropping the same drain bolt for a couple seconds? If I have a bit too much in the tranny, what does this do and will it be bad to leave a bit extra in? Oh, and I didn't change the transfer fluid? Will this fluid mix with the tranny fluid? The front transfer fluid isn't the torque convertor, right ?! So I'll need 8.5L for the tranny and 2.2L for the transfer fluid, not 8.5L total ? Cheers!

I did the same thing although my pathfinder is a 2000. I tied the power into the cigarette lighter, worked fine ever since

yeah i know that thread, i posted it too... i've now got the wiring harness....but i was asking about where people tied in, other than just plugging into the stock harness. next step is just to tear the side panels off and go to it, just a pain to take off all that plastic

I know that there is a thread already in the how to section How - To but it is for a 87-95 PF's and I have a 2000. The wiring harness will work the same. I am just wondering if anyone with a R50 has installed a harness themselves, and where did you tie in to your stock harness, and what wires are what. I want to find out if there's any easier place to tie in to the stock than ripping the interior side panels off cuz that's a pain in the ass to do. Cheers!

hmmmm i would like to know too, i got lsd specific 80w-90 for the lsd rear, and 75w90 for the front which said it'd work. basically the manual said API GL-5 requirements but doesn't list oil viscosity...same with ATF fluid...it says use Nissan Type D but if you don't buy from the nissan dealer that isn't much help

Thanks for the replies guys!