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rick88ss

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Posts posted by rick88ss

  1. It's sometimes a little tricky to line up the distributor just right. Line up the crank pulley to TDC with the arrow pointing to zero degrees TDC. Remove the dist hold down bolt and make a note of where it's pointing. Carefully pull out the dist and reinstall it 1 tooth over clockwise and test again with the timing light. Get back

  2. I think the knock sensor is under the lower intake manifold which isn't necessary to remove to fix the valve cover gaskets.

    You should change the pcv valve,and spark plugs if you need to since they will be a little easier to get to. There's a water hose along the back of the intake that's a bit of a pain. Also the egr tube might be a little rusted so spray it with some pbr blaster to help remove it.

    Do you have the FSM? Take a look at the coolant hose diagrams so you can get a better idea of any small hoses you might need.

    All I can think of for now.

  3. Then make sure the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal in the cap. Look at the inside of the dist cap. The terminals on the inside don't match the spark plug wire terminals on top of the cap.

    I think there's a pic in the service manual that shows where the rotor should be pointing.

  4. Make sure the crank is at zero. The marks on the cam gears don't line up exactly. Looking at the engine,the right cam mark should be a little past the mark on the rear timing belt cover and the left cam dot a little before the mark on the timing cover mark. Also there should be 40 belt teeth between the cam gear dots and 43 between the driver's side cam gear dot and the dot on the crank timing sprocket.

    Then the dist rotor should point to the dist cap #1 terminal.

     

    Does it look like this?

  5. When the cams are lined up with the dimples on the rear timing belt cover, does the crank pulley line up with the zero mark? If it doesn't then something is screwed up.

    Best bet is do take the timing belt off and redo it with all of the timing marks lined up.

    If the belt did slip I would get a new one. Also do a compression test if possible to rule out a snapped cam. If it broke in the middle the dist will still turn but the rear cylinder and maybe center cylinder (4 and 6) might have the corresponding valves not opening and closing. It would show up in the compression test.

  6. Before any of that make sure that the driver's side cam didn't snap. If it broke in the middle the dist rotor will still spin but if it broke close to the cam gear the dist won't turn therefore not fire correctly.

    Does the rotor turn as you turn the engine manually with a socket on the main pulley bolt?

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  7. I haven't had to adjust my TPS but it should show the proper procedure in the FSM or it might be on this forum. It should have two sensors in the TPS. One switch to show idle or not idle and a variable voltage according to throttle angle sensor.

    I bought a code reader/scanner from the auto parts store that will show the idle and throttle open percentage on the little screen. It'll also read the check engine light codes.

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