VW_Factor

Not a whole lot. Spun a couple broadies in an open parking lot. (LSD rear makes that fun). We parked and waited about 30 minutes for mountain traffic to die down a bit, restarted the truck, and noticed the trans not shifting properly.

The aux tranny cooler is installed in front of the radiator albeit right up against it, and up high to keep junk out of it. We didn't have much snow and ice buildup on the front. ECU had no codes. Could the tranny fluid just being too cold cause this? Can't troubleshoot it anymore now, as its shifting perfectly this morning with absolutely zero intervention from anyone. Stupid gremlins.

I kind of wondered about that. However I don't think limp mode sticks the tranny constantly in second unless the selected gear is first. 2nd or D, regardless of OD selection its in 2nd. Converter didn't lock up either.

Reverse works fine as well. In a few days when it warms up, I'm going to climb under 'er and check all the electrical connectors. Didn't plow through any deep stuff or anything. I am kinda hoping that perhaps there was some moisture in a relay or something and just headed up there, and parking at the brewery up there allowed it to freeze. Do any of the relays under the hood have anything to do with trans shifting? Most all of them are original Nissan.

Took a trip to Mt. Hood. Everything is just fine. Park at some bathrooms and take care of business. On the way down, 3rd and/or overdrive went away. OD button still works while coasting, turning it off, brings the engine RPM up "compression braking". Otherwise, acceleration won't shift into it. Leaving the shifter in the D or 2nd position, the tranmission stays in 2nd at a dead stop. However, pulling it into 1st nets a good 1st gear engagement. Fluid was changed this past summer, and an auxiliary cooler was added, bypassing the stock. Fluid is not low, nor discolored or anything.. I'm thinking something electrical or something. Perhaps a relay or something isn't working and froze up in the cold weather? Anyone else had something like that happen?

The idle might be a bit high, but only occasionally, and its intermittent. 1 stop light, it may act up, and 3 minutes later, its acting normal. Knowing the "tower" is the air regulator, I have a feeling that just may be my problem as the connector is looseish. Vacuum leaks, throttle stuck open.. I checked for that stuff, and all seems to be in order.

What all sensors regulate the idle speed? Edit : I ask, because when I replaced my IAC some time ago, and while I do not know where the screw was set when I installed it, I backed it out I think about 2 turns. What I had was a slow response to external things such as park to drive.. A/C kicked on.. Seemed to take a while to adjust idle properly. Backing the screw out seemed to speed this up to where it is not noticeable. However I do run into times where idle will stay high for long periods of time, or when "mid temp" I'll get a small skip or miss in the engine that seems random. Otherwise, the engine runs awesome. Wires have been replaced a bit ago, along with plugs. MAF was cleaned and is in good working order. The connector on the "tower" near the IAC is a bit on the loose side as part of the connector is broken. I am unsure as that what the "tower" sensor is.

The IAC valve "idle screw" should be all the way closed normally? (or clockwise?)

You haven't forgotten that there is hot water/coolant in that radiator have you? I simply went with a stacked plate cooler, and the biggest I could get to fit behind the grill. (16k rated I believe). Takes a bit to get lockup in the winter, and after first starting, but otherwise it works great!

Same here. Doesn't really affect MPG running A/C either. Although we don't usually run A/C unless we're on the freeway or whatever.

Which connector? The one on the "tower" thingy?

Mine does that just off idle, if you barely crack open the throttle plate. Otherwise it doesn't whistle at any other RPM. Its just about that loud, and its done that since I've had it. Figure that was normal. Guess its not.

Around these parts, when we use A/C the compressor runs full time anyway. Its 90+ before we use it. There are times however say, when it maybe 70 something outside, and humid.. Run the A/C to get rid of the humidity, but its not very hot outside, so the compressor will not be energized 100% of the time. The way I have this wired, in that case, the fan would stop as well (unless the temp switch in the radiator is upto temp as well). At any rate, its not "a deal breaker" by any means. Just not what I would call proper. The fan should run 100% of the time with A/C "engaged" but the compressor may not be energized full time.

Yeah, I read through all that stuff. Skimmed some. All I saw was the "hook it to the A/C compressor". After getting it arranged the way that I have (and I am sure some others have as well) I thought to myself. Hey, when the A/C system is on, the compressor doesn't always run full time. So the fan will not run when the A/C system is on, but compressor is NOT energized. At any rate, I'll look around for a factory service manual maybe and find a more suitable place to tap into the A/C system sometime when I get some more time in the coming weeks.

Yeah, I kinda wondered about that myself. I appreciate the assistance with the proper wiring At this point, I won't be using the A/C much at all, but it may become a bit more important when summer decides to show itself here in Oregon.