Tinker

Is this required for skill upgrade, or can one opt for auto tranny removal/rebuild/intall to qualify instead? Sorry no blindfold or hand tying, but 10 pounds of road-snot and grit in the eyes and several busted knuckles should count for something! :sniff:

Sorry for the long post, but... Stupid tricks at tire places? Get a load of this: I had my wife drop off my 93 Pathy for 4 new tires and an alignment (after replacing tie rod ends, UCA and compression rod bushings). Provided the shop (Bridgestone/Firestone tire center) with the Factory Service Manual Alignment Specs. Got the truck back with a story they had given my wife about "not being able to get the alignment perfect because of a badly worn steering gearbox". Truck drove with the steering wheel cocked to the right about 20 degrees, and still pulled like hell to the left. Got 'er into the garage at home to check the work I had done, and to have a look at this supposed steering play. Lug nuts on the tires were WAY OVERTORQUED - 185 lbs (me) on the end of my 22" breaker bar finally got them to move (340 ft*lbs??), damaged threads, etc. Tie rod ends were marked, but no shims installed behind the upper control arm spindles. Visible toe-out on the front wheels. NO perceptible movement at the steering box output arm, less than 20mm play at the steering wheel rim (manual allows 35mm). Ball joints, cross rod, etc, less than 6 months old. Ditto shocks, torsion rods, and rear springs. Took 'er back the next day and raised hell - $80 for an alignment that obviously was only done half-assed, then a ****-and-bull story about the gearbox, plus the damaged lugs. Told them I wanted to see the print from their alignment rack, they didn't have it (surprise, surprise), and that I wanted the wheel studs fixed. They sheepishly said they would see what they could do. Got the truck back that afternoon, with another ****-and-bull story about bent/distorted rims, and only being able to get it within road-pull load limits by screwing with the tires on the rims for 2.5 hrs. Truck still pulls to the left, but not quite as much. No stud repair, as they claim "that's the way it came in". They claim that they didn't have to adjust anything on the alignment, but lo and behold, the shims have magically appeared behind the control arm spindles, and I now have an alignment printout that shows it to be within book limits. No admission of shoddy initial work, no apology, and nothing but a "take it or leave it" attitude. Bridgestone/Firestone tells me there's nothing they can do, as this place is independently owned and operated - I guess they just whore out their name to anyone who'll sell their tires. Bottom line - unless you have a service center or mechanic that you know for a fact you can trust (they are out there), you might as well bend over, lube up, and say ahhhh - 'cause you're gonna get honed. You can count on them giving you a bull@#$t story, particularly if you have a woman drop it off/pick it up - they figure they can get away with just about anything. :furious:

93 XE 345000 km (about 215k miles). Recent tranny rebuild (auto) - still reliable enough for extended hunting trips and mega highway miles!

The torque converter bolts definitely have to come out the starter bore - but you'll have to remove the sheet metal spacer that sits between the pan and the bottom of the bell housing. Remove all the bolts from the alignment pins down, then work the spacer back and forth while pulling down - a real PITA but its do-able. (It'll probably help if you remove the tranny to engine bracket as well). Use a socket or wrench on the crankshaft damper/pulley bolt, wedged against the frame, to keep the crank from turning while you apply torque to the torque converter bolts (also use it to rotate the flexplate to get at the next bolt). If you think this part is fun, just wait 'til you have to line up the torque converter with the flexplate when re-installing! :furious:

Hey Precise, we Canucks already burnt DC (including the whitehouse) in the war of 1812 (which you lost, but we decided to let you keep what was on your side of the fence before it started, 'cause we're just so damned agreeable)!

We've got snow up to 8 months of the year around here (northern Alberta) - everthing from just enough to wet the road to 1 foot plus deep to polished hardpack and black ice (stuff's just about invisible!). What I've found (and most of the folks I know around here agree) is that a wide tire is great if you're off-highway and need some flotation, but for highway miles or grocery getting you'd better have a narrower (70 series - preferably 75) tire with an agressive, well siped (particularly at the extreme shoulder and onto the sidewall) tread pattern. Anything wider and you get into the 'sit and spin' trying to get going, or 'road-curling' trying to get stopped. The effect is similar to hydroplaning, but instead of water floating you up off the road its the packed snow stuck to your tire shearing away from the snow (or ice) underneath. Previous posts are correct regarding ice - all bets are off traction-wise (although the purpose designed winter tires which use crushed walnut shell (or equivalent) in the wear surface of the tread do substantially reduce braking distances). Engine braking is preferred to foot or e-braking, and look for the looser snow or sanded sections (away from the polished ruts or wheel tracks) on either side of the lane your in. Don't be afraid to head for the rhubarb instead of sliding into that impending rear-ender - the curb and snow bank will do substantially less damage to your rig (provided your not over-doing it speed wise). Keep your tank at least half full - more weight over the rear axle will help with traction when not in 4X, and make sure your alignment is up to snuff or you can forget any kind of direction control. Do not use cruise control under questionable conditions - you'll arsey-versey before you know it! Definitely practice in the parking lots and play it real cool , winter driving is a riot provided you keep your head and watch out for the pinheads who figure its still July!

And make sure you use line specifically made for transmission fluid - emissions or fuel line will deteriorate rather quickly when exposed to ATF. Usually available at your favorite auto parts supplier...

Thanks guys. Tying the lines together shouldn't be a problem - just need a double female flare fitting - I might try the bypass if it gives me any more grief. ABS was bypassed anyway after the sensor on the rear pinion failed. I'll leave it with the factory set up for now - I have a line on a rear end for rebuild from the wrecker - $150 if I pull it - if the ABS sensor is in good shape I may want to put it back into operation, although rear-only ABS sounds kinda jam-tart. Those shrieking rear tires are a nice indicator for threshold braking!

oops! forgot to search - please disregard the last post. :X

thorley site says manual tranny only...anyone got 'em installed in an auto? any clearance issues? :confused:

Replaced the valve with a $20 wrecker part - braking performance much improved but I still can't get the rear end to lock up - I'm hoping this'll improve once the adjusters have had a chance to dial in. Appears that problems with this item can cause the both the front and/or rear brakes to drag - I'm guessing it restricts fluid flow in both directions if its pooched. Anyone tried bypassing it?

No lift kit installed. While sourcing a replacement the folks I talked to (including the Nissan Dealer Service rep) stated that they had never heard of one of these failing, so I decided to throw the question out to the experts here. I haven't come across a lot of info on these, which would tend to support the dealers claim of near invincibility. Then again, he probably doesn't see too many 350000 km pathys. What I was hoping for was a quick, easy to perform, rock-solid, yes/no test, specific to this part and completely infallible!

Total of 5 solenoids, Tq cnvrtr clutch sol, Line pressure sol, and 3-unit sol assembly which includes overrun clutch solenoid, shift A and shift B solenoids. 3 unit solenoid assemblies are available as a group, the other two are sold individually. My rebuild kit did not come with any solenoids, so be sure to ask for them specifically if there's any doubt. I think the price I was quoted for the 3 unit assembly was about $150. You should probably download the AT section of the shop manual for diagnosis and repair/overhaul. The vendor I dealt with indicated that Nissan was replacing the 3 unit assemblies 100000 km intervals as they tend to collect wear particles which in turn produces failures. A tranny flush and thorough cleaning may correct intermittent problems...

Wow! No one wanted to drop 15 bucks for a ball joint puller? I found it made the job a breeze - looks like a cross between a c clamp and a pickle fork. Apply pressure to the stud portion using the bolt, the fork part grabs the C frame under the ball. A very moderate tap on the side of the C frame where the stud goes through and out she pops!

Having some ongoing trouble with my 93 ABS equipped Pathy. Distinct lack of rear braking pressure despite replacing drums, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, calipers, pads, assorted brake hardware, etc. Full system bleed performed after each component replacment, of course. Problem is present regardless of whether ABS fuse is installed or not. Is it possible that the proportioning valve (mounted on the passenger side frame rail) is causing this? Its supposed to reduce braking pressure to the rear axle to prevent end-swapping under hard braking - could it be stuck? I still seem to get good fluid flow when bleeding, but the pressure could be substantially reduced without noticing it during bleed? Suggestions?

Just got out from under my Pathy (93 auto). 2 useless used trannys from the wrecker ($800 bucks down the drain) - bad tq converter on one, toasted high clutch on the other (same problem as the original). Knuckled down and ordered a rebuild kit and new tq converter, $350 and $150 (Cdn) respectively. 4 days to rebuild working slowly (ie very carefully). Tranny cooler installed. Gettin real good at removal and installation! Runs like a top now. Moral of the story: Think real hard about forking over that hard earned cash for complex items like electronic automatic overdrive trannys. Most wreckers are pretty reasonable about replacing defective parts, but patience starts to wear thin after the first one... I had planned on snapping some pics of the process (removal, rebuild, and installation) but the whole experience became so harrowing that plan went be the wayside. Happy to answer questions though.

A slight increase in oil weight may be an option if you're not in an area affected by extreme low temperatures (10w40, 20w50, straight 30W, etc) and may result in a slight decrease in leak rate. Do not change to a heavier oil than recommended in the manual if you live in a cold area - tough to crank an engine full of molasses! Additives like stop leak (engine, not rad!) may provide temporary relief, but have been known to cause seal deterioration after extended periods (and not just the seal that was leaking - think every seal in your mill!). In general, your options are: 1)replace the seal, 2)drip and fill, repeat as necessary, 3)ignore it - it'll go away when the engine seizes due to lack of oil!

Possible intake manifold leak at head or block junction resulting in lean run at temperature? Had several old Dodge vans with same condition and seem to remember a Nissan dealer mechanic warning me about Pathy intakes. Check with water or light oil spray in the vicinity of the gasket - momentary improvement in idle after spraying indicates air leak.

I purchased a new solenoid from an auto electric supply house here in Edmonton called Alter-Start. The specialize in alternator and starter rebuild for automotive and heavy equipment. Check your local yellow pages for auto electric rebuild outfits - they're usually pretty good about supplying parts, and will match the correct part if you bring the old one in. I found out my starter wasn't an OEM Nissan unit, turned out to be a Mitsubishi, but still works fine after installing the new solenoid. Tinker

Be sure to check the starter solenoid prior to replacing the whole starter - turns a $200+ job into a $20 job if just the solenoid needs replacing. Cold weather can turn marginal solenoids into non-starters. Best way to check for power to the solenoid is a voltmeter between the starter contact and ground. Bench testing of the starter may not reveal solenoid trouble, but should definitely show starter motor defects. If it checks ok, then replace the solenoid as a matter of course.

Had a similar occurence about two months ago - turn key, nothing happens. Light rap on starter housing got it going (not too hard, you can break the magnets that line the starter housing - big $$). Tested for voltage to starter, came out 12+. Pulled starter and had it tested - perfect function, no problems. Started once after re-install, then nothing. Turned out to be the solenoid - $14 fix. Much better than $200 plus for new starter! Tinker

Thanks for the link and tips - I'll take any advice that makes the job easier! Regarding the clutches in an automagic tranny - these are internal components and are very similar to the clutches found in differentials and motorcycles - not to be confused with the main drive clutch on a standard. I believe the Pathy uses 2 internal clutches (gears 1-2 and gears 3-4), although you should definitely check the FSM if you want the definitive answer. These clutches are controlled automatically by the valves, solenoids, tranny computer, etc... Repair or replacement of either would still require at least partial disassembly of the tranny, with the associated soft parts and electrical parts kits driving the price of rebuild through the roof (if you're lucky enough to even find them). I remember seeing an overhaul kit for this tranny in the local free classifieds paper for $1200 - a little steep given the price of warranteed used trannies! -Tinker

Yeah, I got the distinct impression that the kid at the tranny shop was drooling over my Pathy after seeing the newer exhaust, front end components, and general level of care. Kinda discouraging to be taken for a dolt with more dollars than sense though. I usually avoid any kind of auto repair shop for that very reason. I'll definitely be going with the aftermarket tranny cooler - any suggestions on sizing (I've heard that medium size is good, but that's kinda vague)and location (ie, in front of the rad, or the A/C core, behind either, or somewhere else?). Fluid starvation seems likely, as the fluid was pretty frothy when I checked it (post failure). Havin it die isn't so bad, as it did manage to get me home. I got it fairly cheap and its given good service for the last 3 years, so I'm not too p@#$ed (beats making payments)- just bummed about having to drive my brother's 86 Z28 in the snow - just doesn't handle the slippery stuff like my Pathy for some reason... I'll definitely shoot a bunch of pics during the swap, particularly in the spots where the language gets interesting! Tinker

Sorry for the extended length. Alright... here goes: Background - I use my Pathy for a lot of highway miles, canoe carrier in summer, hunting buggy in fall, and ski wagon in winter, trips are usually 3-5 hours in duration at 120 kph (60 mph?). Its a 93 XE 4x4 with 330000+ km on the clock. Previously a fleet vehicle for Canada Broadcast Corp., so it was reasonably well maintained prior to being picked up at auction - essentially stock. First symptom was noted about 8 months prior to failure - noted a nasty smell which appeared to be coming from the back of the vehicle (something like burning garbage) after about 2 hours of highway driving. I discounted this as a clearance issue between the exhaust and body (toasted undercoating), as I had just replaced the tailpipe. Smell seemed to go away after a short while. In hindsight, was probably the beginning of the high clutch failing, as I had just climbed a long hill at highway speed. Pathy seemed OK for several months afterward. Second symptom noted about 5 months prior to failure - Pathy wouldn't pull away with any authority from near-stops (speed reduced to about 20-30 kph, then light to moderate throttle application) without downshifting into first or second. Once in first or second accel was fine, but a little disconcerting as the engine would be roaring away 'til it upshifted. Accel from full stops was fine. Checked the AT fluid - looked a little grungy, but no obvioulsy burnt smell - changed it out with Nissanmatic D from the dealer (Nissanmatic C no longer available, dealer says D is the recommended replacement). No large parts or wear particles noted in the removed fluid. This seemed to fix the accel problem from near-stops. Third symptom was noted about 30 days prior to failure - return of accel problem from near-stops. Very mild at first, progressively worsening. Dragging parking brake mechanism was noted on the drivers side rear wheel at this time (binding brake lever pivot on shoe). P-brake lever fixed, tranny fluid changed again with small improvement in near-stop accel noted. Slightly toasted odor of the fluid was attributed to the dragging brake forcing the tranny to slip slightly. Several hunting trips were made successfully after this, including extended periods in 4X4 through some moderatley heinous terrain (logging and oil lease roads - lotsa mud, lotsa hills). No slippage was noted in the tranny. Last symptom was noted on the day of the failure - returning from hunting trip (ran fine all day in 4X and 2X). Poor highway acceleration after upshift from 2nd, some hunting and over-revving at highway speed (120kph), non-existent power for passing with corresponding over-rev. Managed to make it back to town, but found that anything past 2nd was hopeless in 2X or 4X. Ditto with OD on or off, or with power button in either position. Limped across town in 2nd. 1st and 2nd seemed unaffected. I found a tranny shop which claimed to be able to diagnose (drive and electronic scan) the Pathy for $65. Drove it over and left it with them for the night, got the $2700+ phone call the following morning, and an offer to purchase the vehicle for $500 when I went to pick it up. No details on what exactly was wrong, no results from the supposed diagnostic, and no charge for inspection (almost kinda sounds like they didn't bother eh?). Drove home in 2 as I don't have 3 grand handy. At this point I found the WD21 forums on 88pathoffroad's damagedreality site, and worked through the Nissan FSM troubleshooting procedure. (Kudos to 88 - I woulda' been dead in the water without the info on his butt-kickin site!) Self diagnosis showed all clear on the electronic front, symptomatic troubleshooting chart indicated a toasted high clutch, which sounded right given the normal operation in 1 and 2. Failure was probably induced (at least in part) to dragging brakes, high load (I tend to push it pretty hard on the hwy sometimes, even with the canoe on top), and most importantly, dependence on the stock tranny cooler in the rad (although I never did see the AT temp light come on). Oh yeah, high mileage probably had something to do with it too. Sourced a used tranny for $800 from a reputable wrecker (oxymoron?) with 120000 km on it - tranny swap scheduled for next weekend. Anyone want pics? Tinker

I'd like to post a few of the symptoms I noted prior to the failure of my automatic tranny (93 4x4, 340000 km), which may be helpful to others trying to diagnose tranny problems - is this the correct place to do it?