Gotrek

I have a 1992 Factory Service Manual (FSM) It's really the only thing you should want/Need and with our pathfinder being no longer with us. I'd love to sell it to someone who could really use it. PM me.

It's a 95 XE. While it looks ok in pictures it has all the typical pathfinder rust (No driver side floorpan). I told the salesman how the hell did this thing pass inspection it has no floor pan. Rest of it was ok. Frame was better then any I've seen but starting to flake on the inside... So we passed on it. They wanted too much money for too much work.

there we go I thought I recognized the lettering. It's in really good shape (and rust free which is super rare) We're going to go look at it.

Never heard of it. Is it a trim package? A used car salesman is selling this truck. What was in the outback package (if there is one) http://kijiji.ebayimg.com/i4/05/k/000/79/f...G?set_id=1C4000

Well hopefully the girlfriend wants this truck Can't say the color works for me but hey.

Great job! didn't know I could just cut out the rear rails like that. So you just cut them out fixed it and welded them back in? I'm so doing that. Truck has been parked for a few weeks now. After this cold spell is over might have to tackle it.

Wicked job !! Do ours next

I might in a couple weeks depending on whether my GF replaces her Pathy with a Jeep or another Nissan.

Just a quick questions does the front clip from a 90-95 pathfinder fit older model pathfinders? How about suspension components? We have a 92 SE with frame cancer and an 87 2door came up for sale with front end damage. I'm not too concerned with suspension parts as the 87 is a "show truck" with lift kit already.

Yeah 200$ Not really worth the hassle. I regret not doing myself I have the skills but at the time didn't have the time or space.

I'll get you some when I go wash the truck before final storage.

After thinking our rear springs were sagging I finally decided to take a closed look. Dissapointed to find out the gentlemen we trusted to weld some plates to strengthen our rotting frame didn't and simply painted over some seam sealer. The frame cracked at the forward fuel tank brace(panhard bar mount) and it split all the way from there to the back down the middle top and bottom and verticly at the brace. The other frame rail shows stress crack as well but not as bad. Going to have to lift the body off to fix this one... Not worth it right now in the dead of winter and no garage. So lesson learned even those you trust might screw you. at least now I've got my own welder and god willing a garage soon.

YOu'll notice on older vehicles the seats are often cocked/crooked towards the inside(cause by people looking over theire shoulder) This is because the rails get out of alignment one is further forward then the other. Check to see if your rails are still square. (measure diagonally) they probably aren't

Is that a bear Brushgard? I have one too but no clue how to mount it since I'm missing the brakets adn the company is no longer in business. If it is could you take some pictures of the mounting area so I can fab up something.

I have a 1980 f150 parts truck do the coils from that year fit the path? How much lift?

Ours came with one of those ashtray insert ones.

EDIT sorry it's for the fuels guage cluste. not the Tach. Maybe your singal wire is frayed?

It'd personally go with Grade 5 Bolts over Grade 8 Studs. Grade 8 material has a different expansion/cooling rate then the heads/manifolds do and will likely cause problems. Grade 5 should expand at about the same rate.

One bolt (driver side) is super easy to get too. Just look on the front driver side of the block behind the alternator you can't miss it. The passenger side one I could reach (near the motor mount) but I could not undo mine. They aren't that hard to spot. I'll snap some pictures when My GF comes over sometime this week.

did you burb the air out of the cooling system after you flushed it? That would cause it to overheat as the water is not circulating properly. If it overheated you may have warped your head/blown a head gasket that would account for the white smoke. Also Straight coolant on it's own will not protect your truck. It needs to be mixed in order to raise the boiling point and lower the temperature. Straight coolant boils and freeze at a much lower/higher temperatures then mixed coolant does A 100 percent antifreeze solution will turn to a solid at 9°F (â€â€œ13°C) a mix of 40% antifreeze and 60% water provides freeze-up protection down to -10°F and boil over protection up to 259°F. In comparison, a mix of 70% antifreeze and 30% water provides freeze-up protection down to -62°F and boil over protection up to 270°F Don't go over 70% coolant to water ratio check your oil for water and your coolant for oil that will tell you if your head gasket is blown, lack of power as well eventually. You can also do a compression check on each cylinder a low compression would reveal a bad head gasket.

Ha ha ha I Looks like it might be easier then planned. I found a stud/nut on the ground in the driveway I thought it belonged to a friends civic but he's not missing any and the pathfinder is a bit louder then before. Couple more and I won't have to change anything if they all back themselves out.

Meh maybe I'll live with it I can't even remove the exhaust shield so it's not a good start

Looks easier then trying to get to the exhaust manifolds while it's in there. I think I'll JB weld around the manifolds and never look at it again

One thing for sure is I'm not scared to dive in there and do it again. I'm contemplating doing my leaky exhaust next but I don't think I have the patience to do it with the engine in the truck

All good now.