kbreitwieser

Welcome back...

welcome, from a former new yorker, lived in LI and went to school in Plattsburgh, NOw i reside in VA, Love it down here, where in NY are you from, I will be up in the catskills this weekend????

buy the wiring harness adapter for that truck, plugs right into the existing harness, no guessing or schematics involved. the wires on the harness will match up to any aftermarket head unit you buy. Any auto stereo place or even walmart, circuit city, bust buy etc.carries them, be careful, when i bought my first one for my 95 it was the wrong one, I had to return it for the one for the 94 (same as 95). I think you can find them for around 10-20 dollars.... good luck.

looks good.... nice idea putting them up top...

Why not get the adapter, I think they are only like ten bucks, and save you a lot of time, plus if you ever want to put in the old stock radio again it plugs right in... Whatever you choose to do, Good luck...

order a new switch from everythingnissan.com cheap and oem with the connector... worked for my 95 with the same problem... good luck

What about marine grease such as omc (now called bombardier) triple guard grease, I used to work on boats, and that stuff is great in hi heat, hi temp environments. Pretty cheap too. Anyway, good luck to all of you, I'm sure I will encounter the same problems when I finally get around to lifting my Pathy.....

did they cut the rotors when they did the brakes??? I had to have mine cut (both fron and rear) to finally get rid of the squeaking similar to what you have, only when hot, and when slowing down. Check and see, or call the shop. Good luck.

Nice ride, Those tires and rims look sick!!! I also like the windsheild decal, I found a similar one on ebay, item #7977051426, it's cheap, but the shipping is like $15.00 Anyone know where to get them cheaper????

that one I listed is a body kit, but I never heard of mako...anyone have any info???

Hey does anyone know about the lift kit on ebay (item #2435746142)made by mako??? Is it as good or better than the one from AC??? They have it for $90 buy it now. Any help would be appreciated. Also, my mechanic friend says he can install a kit for about $300-$350 in labor, I supply the kit. Other shops around here want $500 for the kit and labor. Let me know what you guys think... Karl

Hey Deadrock, I'm in Norfolk VA, about 1.5 hours from Oregon inlet, been there a couple of times, I have a 95 se completely stock, just air down to 15-20psi and have a blast, never even came close to getting stuck... go down by the bridge for the best fishing, be careful with speeding on the beach though, saw a couple of trucks get busted last spring. Good luck. Karl

thanks, I'll try that.... gotta love firefox NOOOO POP UPS!!!!

I had the same problem, I disconnected mine, no flicker since, beware, It disables your sensor for the alarm for the rear hatch...I can open my hatch any time I want without turning off the alarm.... Could be a problem for you guys with huge bass boxes and whatnot just waiting to be lifted!!!!

firefox is the way to go, faster, no pop-ups, still have to keep ie for certain sites though.

My sister has those on her pathy and doesn't like them, the skis, or snow boards are too close to the roof and can scratch your paint. Also, they don't hold a lot, maybe three pairs of skis or so. I have the Thule racks for my 95 with the blocks to lift them off the roof a little bit. You can fit two snowboard bottom to bottom, and skis likewise. I think I can carry five pairs of skis if they are clipped together, or four snowboards. Just my preference, I guess if you are going solo the orig. pathy rack would be ok. Good luck, by the way, where do you ski/board???? I used to go in the NE, Mass, VT, NY but now I live in southeastern VA and the closest places are little hills unless you want to go 6 hours+ to West VA...

I think there is a sensitivity setting under the drivers seat, you can change it to low if your alarm is too touchy, correct me if I'm wrong guys.....

I had the same problem for a while, I found that my stereo was causing the problem, but mine was aftermarket kenwood. Found the problem by pulling the fuse like the earlier posts suggest. I have since replaced the stereo and no problems since then... Good luck..

I have a 20' fishing boat that also weighs around 4000lbs which I tow all the time with my 95 automatic. I haven't towed for any great distance, but I am confident that I could take it on a road trip with no problems. Make sure the trailer is well balanced as far as tounge weight, too much and the truck will handle terribly. Rule of thumb, when the trailer is lowered on to the truck, the rear end shouldn't sink lower than the front, at most the truck should be level with the ground. Also if the trailer doesn't already have brakes, install them, I plan on doing that to my trailer, because stopping in a hurry is a little scary. Use your tranny to help you slow down one gear at a time. Good luck, hope my info was helpful.

I have an 95 auto, and have driven my friends 95 5-spd, and I have to say I was not impressed by the manual, I didn't notice much of a performance difference to put up with a manual in stop and go traffic, etc... The auto has never let me down, trailering, offroading on trails, in snow, on the beach, on the street....over 100k and still running strong. Just my opinion....

Check out everythingnissan.com for oem parts...

The switch comes out as a whole assembly. If you take the cover off the the steering column (top&bottom) the whole switch comes out which includes the blinker switch as well. One wire harness plug and two screws will get it out. Once you get it out, there is a thin plastic cover over the contacts of the switch, you can use a small pick or screwdriver to pry it off. Also there are two more screws that hold the contact assembly in the switch body, you can remove them and then bend the tabs to remove it. Take it apart, and clean all of the contacts, rebend them slightly, and you should be okay... you can clean the contacts with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Look at the contacts and the housing carefully for signs of arcing and melting, if you find either it might be time to replace the switch. I will try to take pics of it soon, so everyone can see what it looks like... If you have anymore questions feel free to pm me or reply to this post. Good luck

Well the light problem went away for a little while, and then the other day came back... So I finally took out the switch and took it apart to clean and rebend the contacts, but I found the real problem... the switch had melted in one spot and was still making contact no matter what I did to bend, clean, etc... So.. the solution? Go to everythingnissan.com, and they have an oem replacement for $55 including shipping. Patiently waiting for it to arrive, in the mean time unplugging the switch every time I park the car. PITA Any way hope this helps others that run into this problem... Good luck.

look at the bottom of the carb, it may have a drain plug... there may be oil trapped in the bottom causing the engine to still have a bad mixture. Also, if he used an old fuel tank there may be sediment trapped in your inline fuel filter, or even water trapped in the bottom of your carbs. Definatley try new plugs, and make sure both cyl. are getting spark. Also, don't change your fuel/air mixes too much, see if you can get your hands on a service manual so you can check the specs on what the adj. should be. General rule of thumb is 1.25-1.5 turns out from the needle being seated. Good luck, and if you still are having problems PM me and maybe I can help more, I used to be a boat mechanic a few years back... Karl

Here are my two hairy beasts, the one on the right is the boy, 100lbs., the one on the left is the girl 70lbs. The boy is half chow chow, half golden retreiver, and the girl is mostly all chow chow. The funny thing is that they are from the same litter. Mama dog had three different gentleman callers... So I guess my dogs are half brother and sister? Anyway they are really cool pups, about 2 1/2 years old now.