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lgranch

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About lgranch

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    This is the third time I have registered. First time nothing happened. This last time It would not accept my validation, it stated I was not a valid member name
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Year
    1992
  1. I disagree. First I would need to know which tranny because the diesel's can be different. Reverse failure can be dead tranny or blocked passages in the valve block. Additionally there is a solinoid that controls the reverse that can go bad and cause failure. This is very difficult to diagnois over the net and MOST tranny shops just want to replace everything (butchers)
  2. It is not the cost oof the frame, it the cost of swap... it is NOT easy or fast
  3. Excellent point Mookie. The converters will rip out the splines as well. I am basing my diagnosis on the pop sound then immediately nothing.
  4. I have read the post so far and I agree with the suggestions made for checking things out. However with your noise then failure. I am going to guess you snapped the input shaft. These are a weak compotent in the Nissan auto tranny. They are not a hard part to fix, however once you have the tranny accessable there are other things that should be done.
  5. Here is a suggestion before you start tracking down wires. Pull the spark plugs or at least pull 5 of the 6 and see if the starter clicks 10 times before turning the motor. If it does then go ahead and trace out the wiring. The click you hear (I am assuming it is pretty loud not just a quiet noise) is the starter solenoid engaging. If that is occuring there can not be bad wires to that solenoid. Internal to the solenoid is the contactor for the starter to turn. Could it be bad on a new starter- yes, however it more probable that there is either insufficient voltage to turn the motor over or there is a motor problem that causes a binding (could be tranny also but again less likely) When looking at the cables do not forget the ground cable that is very important also.
  6. sorry 88. automedicsupply has one for $60 no shipping cost and even Rock Auto has one for $63. both of these are direct fit OEM replacement full wire unit with plugs and everything.
  7. WD21s will run in open loop without the sensor. I would be careful from the standpoint of offroad because you could load the motor and ruin the cat. Normal highway driving is going to be fine. As for new sensors, they are not really expensive. Some places will sell them for under $20. (internet) If someone needs a OBDII sensor (big thread 18 MM) just email me. I'll probably send it to you for the cost of USPS. (it is used and I believe it still works fine) Oh and BTW when someone ask a questionI have assumed that they want a good tech answer. I know that sometimes I can get too tech. If you want a yes or no I can do that also, but then you have to believe that I know what I am talking about.
  8. O2 sensor poisoning is when the surface metal of the sensor is rendered in active. This can be from excessive carbon, or silicone from a gasket sealer. Once the surface of the metal is covered with this it no longer either generates the proper voltage or resistance that the ECM is looking for. This is refered to as poisoning. In some cases this can be cleaned in others the sensor is dead. A good site for technical data on emmission is TOMCO you can google that. They sell the sensor , but look up their tech pages. They have pictures and everything. You can get circuit diagrams and tricks to test the sensors also. I learned one from them the other day about using your body as a giant resistor to fool the signal of an O2 sensor into changing the injector mix. By doing this you can figure out if the sensor is working or not. Pretty neat trick.
  9. Ok I just reviewed some data. I may have gotten the 2 different sensor backwards. Nissan used both zirconia and titania sensor. The Z type required a heater circuit and the T type did not. The problem is the years you are talking about are all when these changes were occuring. The T type used a 12 mm thread and the Z type an 18 mm thread. If the threads match then you should be able to use the O2 sensor. However each wire is used for different purposes. You can not just cut one and tie to together with another. The problem is you have a 4 wire tryin gto go into a 3 wire setup. The extra wire is a ground. If you follow the black wire in piglets harness you should discover that it is a ground. I am pretty sure that you could just leave the wire disconnected and the sensor should work. Also from the pic it appears as though this O2 sensor is contaminated. The white ring near the threads can be an indication of O2 sensor poisoning.
  10. Sorry there Slick'o'rama that will not work. (I'll double check my book and send you the page) Nissan kepp changing the O2 sensor circuits in the early pathys. Somewhere around mid 94 to 95 they even changed the comand logic. When they did that they changed the size of the thread on the sensor so that you could not make a mistake. Now the 91 is OBD1. I am pretty sure that the 88 is slao however I do not think that it is a heated sensor. One simple question are they both the same size thread??? I'll get back to you on the book pages.
  11. That was the excellent 95 I sold this is a 91 parts pig http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14191
  12. I have tried to sell the 91 pathy for several months now. Pictures are on the for sale portion. I have spent a reasonable amount of money advertising on Ebay and locally and have not gotten a single sincere offer of any dollar amount. Grim greg said maybe he would take it and part it out ( he lives sort of close) This is rebuilt motor and everything. I can not part it out myself due to my health which is not going to change. SOOOOOOOO Look at the pics write to Grim Greg and tell him what you want and maybe this will convince him to come and trailer it. BTW remember he needs compensation if for nothing other than his time. This is my last plea on this form for this pathy..... if this does not go anywhere I guess the crusher get it.
  13. While the a crank position sensor could do this it sounds more like a fuel delivery problem. The pump could work but the injectors could fail. Now all the injectors failing at once could only be a computer problem or electrical circuit issue. When you pull the plug is it covered in fuel after cranking??? If not then fuel delivery is the problem. If it is wet with gas then start looking at the other "safety" devices.
  14. Thanks for the input. A couple of good ideas there. As for a price Yea $500 takes it complete. As for parts dump. I just do not know. Do you throw out a A/C compress because you have 2 ? I have all the front end pieces and as for parting it out. I have had a major health problem. I can not disassemble the front end to ship it to Slick. When someone wanted the new rad support the best deal I could find had the shipping more than the $25 I wanted for the support. I was not intending for this pathy to ever be drivable again. If I can't find someone in month it goes to the scrap yard. I will scrap the CATs my self because at least I can get $15 apiece for them and that is more than I'll get for the entire Pathy at the local yards. I'l think about a free offering just before the scrap yard. This forum has been very helpful in the past and I could at least offer when I finish my search.
  15. Guys it is listed on this forum under parts for salel. The deal is make offer. zero miles on rebuilt motor, lots of pic. go ahead and look. I am interesed in feedback

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