Steve_RI

I did the injectors recently and just cut those two PITA coolant hose in the back of the intake for the TB. I replaced them with some silicone lines with a clamp at the curve to keep it from kinking badly. Works fine, if I was in a warm climate I would bypass those lines...taking the intake off and on would be a lot easier.

Same here...been using the 90 degree twist trick with the tensioner keyhole at the 5:30ish position for years on end with no problems.

You get this figured out? So new headlight switch and new hazard switch and still no turn signals.

There was a thread recently on the parking brake cables with some buying options....harder and harder to find that's for sure.

Finished up putting all new fuel injectors in and replacing valve cover gasket. First time I ever had the intake off. Other than the coolant lines that I ended up cutting off, not that bad. I replaced those with some silicone hoses. #2 was dead and had another one, #4 I think it was, that was on it's way out. Truck is running so much better now, obviously much smoother, with a lot more power. Glad I did all six. I used new injectors - SMP brand (blue dot).

Yea, the switches aren't expensive, but it may be worth taking a look at the connections on the current one, could be a stuck contact(s)

If you look at the end of the EL section it's listed there in the main harness layout, 217M in my manual.

This thing is located near the fuse box to the left of the steering column to the best of my knowledge. If you peruse the manual, it should point you to it.

Good call on the online manuals, thought those were gone for good. You indicated that you checked the relay, etc., but I would start with fuses, relay again, and test this combo switch under the dash.

The turn signals are fed through the Hazard switch. I have never had problems with a hazard switch in the Pathfinder, but I would check to see if that is the culprit. Key on, 12V at the switch, etc.. I don't have a wiring diagram or FSM in front of me, but there should be a procedure to follow. I'll take a look when I get a chance.

So your rear lights are out? If so, it's most likely (99%) the turn signal/headlight switch on the column. Take it off and clean the connections. However, if you don't want to fuss with it buy a new one. The ones without cruise control are fairly cheap. I have a spare that does not have the cruise connection, still works fine, just has the connector for the lights. I never use cruise on the truck anyway.

For those of you who have made the conversion, how's it holding up? It's been a while since this mod was originally kicked around. Just curious as to how many owners made the switch.

Yes, the only difference really in these cables are these ends and the overall length. If they show you a picture at least you will be able to tell what side you are getting. The shoe end is the spring loaded piece that's bolted to the housing. I'm in the rust belt so reviving the cable did not work, but you may want to try clamping a rubber hose over the end, add some PB Blaster or the like, get an air gun nozzle sealed against the other end of the tube and hit it with some compressed air. That may work. There are some youtube vids out there on the technique.

3651 looks like this:

They are hard to find these days. I got a pair shipped from Poland if I remember correctly. 3650 looks like this at the end

RESOLUTION Because this never did make sense after I checked and rechecked everything I ordered an ECM on Ebay for $65. It was really the only thing left even though the pins for the fuel pump and ground checked out. Plugged it in and the truck started right up. Thanks everyone for the help. This thread will help anyone down the line checking for fuel pump issues. Also solved the rough idle until warm issue I was having right before this all happened. Makes sense know given the air regulator runs off the same wire.

Okay, this is the route I'll go then, thanks. The kit comes with a circuit breaker from the battery for 30. 85 - ground is obvious. 86 - trigger should be the white/blue wire from the current fuel pump relay I believe. And 87, the hot wire on the pump should be white/purple wire at the harness or whatever color wire is the hot in the middle from the diagram in post 14. looks like white/purple to me.

Okay, got the truck running...broken ground wire on engine I suspect was the cause. Back to the fuel pump issue. I was wondering if I could wire up a new connection using a universal fuel pump kit with a relay like this?

Injectors are not getting the Trigger pulse, so I need to figure out WTF is going on with that now.

I drained out most of the gas today so I'm going to put some fresh gas in to eliminate that issue. What should I look for if the injectors are not firing? Back to the FSM.

Long delay on this, truck has been sitting and just getting back at it. Between summer, work, house work, and the Covid crap, just didn't have the time or the energy. I probably should have got out there and at least ran the truck occasionally. I jumped the white/blue wire at the relay to the battery and got the fuel pump running, but the truck did not start. Even with starter fluid it would run and then conk out. I think at this point the gas is bad, so I'm going to pump the gas out and get some fresh gas. This check out. With the ignition in the on position, you should have battery voltage on both black white stripe wires at the fuel pump relay. If so, power supply is good. If you put a jumper wire from positive post of the battery to the white blue stripe wire at the relay socket, you should have battery voltage at the fuel pump on the white blue stripe wire. If so, the wire is good between relay and pump. Should have less than 2 ohms when measuring between black wire at pump and good ground. If so, ground is ok. Relay clicks The ECU controls the ground for the fuel pump relay. If the relay clicks when the ignition is turned on, the relay drive circuit is ok. I need to check this, not sure. If not, what is the issue? So this is checked with the relay in so I would test white/blue with probe? With the red blue stripe wire at the fuel pump is grounded with the ignition on, the relay should click on and you should have battery voltage at the fuel pump on the white wire with blue stripe. 12V at both hole at fuse. As for testing the fuses, pretty simple. Using a test light or volt meter, connect the negative to a good ground and of you look at the top of the fuse, you will see a small hole on each end. Poke the tip of the positive probe into the hole on one end and then the other. Both should give the same battery voltage if the circuit is on. If one side is "hot" and the other is not, then you have a bad fuse.

Yes, relay clicks and tried a spare. Not sure how to check power at both sides of the fuse? From the wiring diagram (L for blue) Both B/W feed to fuse at ignition. R/L goes to pin 104. And W/L goes to fuel pump.

Alright, ran a new white/blue wire from relay to the pump, nothing. Jumped a wire from +positive at battery to the white/blue at relay connector, pump has power like before. So, with a new wire from relay to pump, time to look at the ground. At the pump I checked the ground to the pump (blue/red) and the ground for the sender (black) - marked in red. Both read 0 ohms from the plug to the underside connections. So, that's fine. Now at the Harness, I checked both ground connections (circled in red) with a good chassis ground and get 1.5 - 1.7 ohms on both. These should be zero, or at least one of them? Thanks for the continued help.

Yes, thanks, I do have 12V with a wire from the battery to the white/blue at the relay. I checked with the key on, but it shouldn't matter based on what you said. Also, I think you meant (from the bolded statement above) ...if you don't have voltage at the pump, then likely it's the ground. I've got all the wire exposed from the front wheel well to the pump. The only place I can't get to is inside the dash along the engine compartment. In a worse case scenario, I should be able to run a new wire from the relay back to the pump, correct. Easy enough to check...gonna be doing a lot soldering and heat shrinking, anyway.

Thanks for the help, I do appreciate it. Intuitively, it doesn't make any sense to me..... If you jump a BLACK/WHITE from the 12V source at the relay (that’s terminals 2/3 at the relay) to the WHITE/BLUE wire at the fuel pump and the key is "on," you should have power to the fuel pump. If you don't, you have an open circuit in the WHITE/BLUE wire and it needs to be traced and repaired I would think that since you have 12v at this point ground is the issue if it doesn't kick on. This is probably where the ECM comes into play.