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Steve_RI

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Steve_RI last won the day on February 22 2017

Steve_RI had the most liked content!

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About Steve_RI

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident
  • Birthday 11/28/1967

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  • Website URL
    http://
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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1992 Pathfinder SE Stock
  • Place of Residence
    RI
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rhode Island
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Yes, relay clicks and tried a spare. Not sure how to check power at both sides of the fuse? From the wiring diagram (L for blue) Both B/W feed to fuse at ignition. R/L goes to pin 104. And W/L goes to fuel pump.
  2. Alright, ran a new white/blue wire from relay to the pump, nothing. Jumped a wire from +positive at battery to the white/blue at relay connector, pump has power like before. So, with a new wire from relay to pump, time to look at the ground. At the pump I checked the ground to the pump (blue/red) and the ground for the sender (black) - marked in red. Both read 0 ohms from the plug to the underside connections. So, that's fine. Now at the Harness, I checked both ground connections (circled in red) with a good chassis ground and get 1.5 - 1.7 ohms on both. These should be zero, or at least one of them? Thanks for the continued help.
  3. Yes, thanks, I do have 12V with a wire from the battery to the white/blue at the relay. I checked with the key on, but it shouldn't matter based on what you said. Also, I think you meant (from the bolded statement above) ...if you don't have voltage at the pump, then likely it's the ground. I've got all the wire exposed from the front wheel well to the pump. The only place I can't get to is inside the dash along the engine compartment. In a worse case scenario, I should be able to run a new wire from the relay back to the pump, correct. Easy enough to check...gonna be doing a lot soldering and heat shrinking, anyway.
  4. Thanks for the help, I do appreciate it. Intuitively, it doesn't make any sense to me..... If you jump a BLACK/WHITE from the 12V source at the relay (that’s terminals 2/3 at the relay) to the WHITE/BLUE wire at the fuel pump and the key is "on," you should have power to the fuel pump. If you don't, you have an open circuit in the WHITE/BLUE wire and it needs to be traced and repaired I would think that since you have 12v at this point ground is the issue if it doesn't kick on. This is probably where the ECM comes into play.
  5. Okay, I get the fuel pump to run with a 12v source and ground directly on the fuel pump harness. I also found this: If you jump a BLACK/WHITE from the 12V source at the relay (that’s terminals 2/3 at the relay) to the WHITE/BLUE wire at the fuel pump and the key is "on," you should have power to the fuel pump. If you don't, you have an open circuit in the WHITE/BLUE wire and it needs to be traced and repaired I don't get the fuel pump to run in this case, so it looks like that is the problem, I have continuity in all the new wire I replaced, so this break or short must be somewhere else. I'm stumped now.
  6. Just throwing crap out here...I should be able to run two wires - one for power (blue/white) and one for ground (black/red) to the battery and get the fuel pump to kick on, no?
  7. I noticed the fuel light working again, so that was fixed when I went through the wires on the back fender above the exhaust. There's two yellow wires for the gauge and light. I noticed one of them didn't have continuity from the harness the fuel pump plugs in to, so that solves a very minor but inconsequential issue..
  8. Okay, stumped on this one. Went through the factory service manual procedure and can not figure this out. Started with this from above. I have 12 volts at those terminals at the relay. Next went through these steps - all checked out. Swapped in new relay and checked the fuel pump - got between 1.6 and 1.9 ohms. I went through the wiring in the rear near the exhaust and replaced all the wiring I fixed from 2005 or so because it was looking rattly. Went through the procedure again, no change. What the heck am I missing?
  9. I had repaired that ground wire in the past, so it may very well be the issue again, thanks. And thank you for clarifying....test sequentially...understand now.
  10. Trying to chase down an issue again with the truck cranking but no start. Fuel pump is definitely not getting power and I'm starting to go through the manual procedure to diagnose. In the diagram below, does this indicate a jumper between the two contact points?
  11. Everything looked fine. Then I went back to the recent issues I had with the fusible links. I replaced them recently and changed the connection at the battery post. I don't think II was getting a good connection the way I had it set up in the pic. I fixed that and truck is running fine. Don't know if this was the issue, but it may have contributed?
  12. I have some time tonight to poke around....thanks.
  13. Truck sat for a couple weeks....when I started her up, ran rough (like missing a cylinder), but went away after warm up. Ran some Sea Foam for good measure, but this weekend it was running rough again until warmed up then, poof - runs fine....like flipping a switch. Anything obvious I should look for?
  14. I'm not sure what they all feed to, but I know the fuel injection and ECM are definitely one of them. Having all black wires does not sound right, it sounds like a previous owner bypassed the links?

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