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Taoism

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About Taoism

  • Birthday 09/06/1970

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1991 se 4x4
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1991

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  1. The RC UCA's come with bushings, poly I think, If you buy them as a kit. They have grooves for the grease fittings and small holes going from the grooves feeding channels around the sleeves to allow the grease to get where it is needed. If you use the alternate method someone posted of getting the UCA's from RC you may have to get the bushings separately as well.
  2. I used a two jaw puller to get the bushings out of my old upper control arms. I am replacing them with RC pieces, but I needed the spindles. was a big pain in the ass but it worked. As for the lower control arm bushings, pray that the person who installed them, if they have ever been replaced, used grease or anti-seize on the pivot bolt. Mine, I am pretty sure, were original, and the bolts had seized to the sleeve as well as to the hole in the control arm on the back side. I had to cut the front of the bolts with a cut-off wheel between the control arm and frame, and grind the head off the back side, as well as a significant amount of control arm to free everything up. I got some decent control arms at the local JY for $25 each to replace mine. The "new" ones still have paint on them, mine did not, and had oblong holes fromthe sway bar bushings/links, never being replaced. Getting the old bushings out was a pain in the ass as well. I drilled out as much of the rubber surrounding the inner sleeve as possible then slowly cut/burned/beat the inner sleeve out of the bushing. I then very carefully used a hacksaw to cut the outer sleeve almost all the way through. Then used a hammer and a punch to snap it along the cut, folding it in on itself, after which it just slides right out. To install the new bushings I tried just banging them in with a hammer and a random piece of round metal I had in my machinist box that happened to have the right size hole in it to clear the inner sleeve and an O.D. just a touch bigger than the outer sleeve of the bushing. Even after freezing them first to make them a bit less snug, it didn't work very well. I also tried using various bits off all thread and that same random metal piece and some extremely large washers to rig up a way to press them in. In the end i bought a ball joint press kit, basically a ginormous C-clamp roughly 2 1/2 inches thick and a foot long weighing about 10 pounds. The kit came with various bits for pressing ball joints and universal joints and I was able adapt my random metal piece with a cpl of the kit's fittings to use it as a bushing press. It worked the bomb, and was worth every cent. Yet another example of having the right tool making the job a cake walk and saving a ton of time/aggravation.
  3. After measuring them, the RC sleeves are almost exactly 2 inches long. The ones from my stock arms are 1.880-ish. Oddly enough, at the local Ace Hardware I found some "bushings" that are .077 thick and almost exactly the same I.D. as the sleeve O.D. they look like washers to me, but hey, if they wanna call them bushings, so be it. I'm gonna refer to them as shims. the outside diameter is a good match with the poly bushings that came with the control arms. They fill the void nearly perfectly allowing slight pressure on the RC poly bushings from the factory washers on the inside and on the outside from the shims, while still allowing them to rotate on the sleeves.
  4. Maybe Nissan uses better quality alternators than I am used to. I have lost 3 from submersion, 2 in an old full size Blazer traversing muddy water deeper than I probably should have been in and one in an old Starion TSI during a late winter flood. The Mitsubishi one never actually got under water, just washed over by water forced up from underneath while moving the car to higher ground from the 16 inches of water it was sitting in. I was told by a gearhead friend that if the water is clean it may or may not short out the alternator, but in the case of my blazer it was probably dirt and/or mud left behind in the alternator that killed it. He said I probably could have cleaned it out and replaced the brushes and been all good. Wish I had known that back then.
  5. Anyone ever tried it? The factory location is one of the most retarded things I have ever seen. I have no idea what they were thinking, other than maybe a lack of space elsewhere to fit it. The designers probably didn't envision anyone getting a Pathfinder in deep enough water to submerge it, but at the stock location it could. get ruined just going through a deep puddle/stream from water splashed into it. I kicked all the A/C components to the curb and the spot the compressor lived in looks like a good place for the alternator to live. The mounting could be a solid mount and use the tensioner that used to serve the A/C compressor I think. The pulley sizes for the two components on the crank appear to be the same size. Any thoughts?
  6. I am finally getting going on my project, after months of researching and acquiring parts and odd tools. So I started assembling the upper control arms/spindles/bushings today and found that the bushing sleeves are seemingly the wrong size. They are longer than the length of the bushings. When assembled there is a gap between the factory outer washer and the bushing. What should I do about this?
  7. Well, back on the net after a cpl weeks downtime waiting for warranty/RMA on my hard drive. The nerf bars are just a temporary thing, a stop gap if you will. They were cheap, 20 bucks each at the local J/Y. To be honest the most purpose they will probably serve this year is somewhere to knock snow and mud off my feet getting into the vehicle. Rock sliders are in my plans for the future, as is a custom bumper in the rear. Just a question of funds at the moment. A front bumper with some beef to it, and protection for the grill/lights is more pressing for me, considering the number of deer,antelope, and other random things one might encounter on the roads around here, both paved and otherwise. At the rate I am getting things done this project will be ready to drive for the winter, which is really what I bought it for. The fact that Pathfinders turn out to be quite capable off-road is just a bonus. Definitly gonna take a bit more work to get it to the state I would like before any serious wheeling happens.
  8. I got a kick of them not being able to kill it. Gives me faith that my project 91 will serve me well for a few years anyway.
  9. well, by "cheap" I meant under $500 bucks, which is about what most quality mig units of sufficient amperage to be useful for more than sheetmetal work go for. I'd really like a Miller like my buddy has, but he paid about $700 for it, not counting the bottle. I am hoping to find something used of decent quality/amperage locally, or within a cpl hours drive, for short money. My preference would be 140 or so amps, from Miller, Lincoln, Thermal Arc, or hobart, not in that particular order.
  10. uuuum......I was asking MY1PATH, whom I quoted, for the p/n and supplier info for the bearing cups to replace the rsuted/broken bushing cups on the frame side mount of the tension rod. But thanks anyway. I already have a new set of bushings, pretty blue ones from MOOG, w/sleeves even. Both factory cups are tooled from the PO never doing these bushings, just like yours. As with a great many other things, welding will be required. So I see a cheap welder in my future, as paying someone to fix both sides would cost me the same money as a low end flux/mig set-up and I have other things that will need welding (fixing oval'd holes on the t-bar crossmember, replacing the radiator support) to accomplish. Being able to fabricate a few things would be nice as well.
  11. could I have that p/n and supplier info please?
  12. Hello Everyone. I never posted here when I registered for some reason, and decided I should get around to it finally. My name is Tim. I currently live in Wyoming, Gillette to be exact. I am currently going to school and work part time as a hockey referee in the winter time. I have worked as a mechanic in the past, fixing Saab's, and Volkswagons, as well as being a cnc machinist for many years. I have also been employed as a computer technician and still do tech work on the side. I have built a ton of vehicles from other peoples cast-offs or abandoned projects in the past(mostly VW's), as well as a cpl out of straight bodies found in junkyards. I was looking for a decent winter vehicle recently and a barmaid at a local bar offered me a 91 Pathfinder she had in her yard for $400. She said it had hit a deer, needing some body work, and needed the transmission (supposedly just rebuilt) reinstall finished. Her husband had apparently paid someone else to do the job and about halfway through the job the guy just disappeared. So I went and looked at it and decided it was a do-able project. Had 155k on it, a few hail dings, and not much rust underneath. I ended up getting the pathfinder for $300 and it sat in a friends garage for a few months till the weather got nicer. I putzed around with it a bit and took the damaged sheet metal and bumper off and spent a lot of time getting things together to fix it's various issues and reading forums researching things I could do or should do. Now I have it in my driveway and work is beginning in earnest. currently planned(ie: have the parts and/or tools) rough country UCAs sway away torsion bars JGC rear coils timing belt and tensioner pulley water pump LCA bushings tension arm bushings Gibson cat-back exhaust nerf bars aftermarket stereo/speakers hood passenger side frt fender radiator support tailights remove all A/C componants relocate alternator to A/C compressor location remove tow hitch I am taking pictures as I go along and eventually I will start a thread and share some pics of my progress.
  13. I have read in other threads and on other various Nissan forums about pathfinders having built in amps for the stock speakers. I am curious is this the case for a 91 SE. If so, where might I find the amplifiers in the vehicle? Does anyone know the specs on these amps? Are they worth using, or should I just bypass them and run my own wires? I have a cpl-year old Pioneer head unit I plan to use, along with some 6 1/2" polk midbase/crossovers/pioneer tweeters for the front doors. 6x9's will eventually go in the rear location to replace the factory speakers. Not sure what I will do for bass as yet. I don't want a big box taking up room. probably a cpl 6" or 8" tubes.
  14. for #4: In principle, there should be no difference, as they accomplish the same goal, ie: cool the air fed to the intake downstream of the turbo. I may be wrong though as I know little to nothing about diesel engines other than basic principles. I have a friend who used basically the entire intake/plumbing/intercooler from a TDI vw on a gas engine and it worked quite well. one of the best bang for the buck mods i have ever seen, as the tdi parts were available for a song from the scrapyard and gave his engine a huge boost in power. fuel bits obviously were custom and cobbled together but still a couple thousand dollars cheaper than the cheapest forced induction kit for his application.
  15. Hmm, mine sat for a cpl years before I got it as well. Think I will check the injectors (among other things) before I try to start it the first time when I get the timing belt/tensioner done, just for the hell of it.
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