Balmer

Oh, and I'm planning on running 37"-42" tires.

So I've got a line on a great deal on a full drivetrain minus the engine from a '79 Chev 3/4 ton. I have yet to see the parts myself so I can't confirm anything yet but this is what I'm told is waiting for me: SM465 4-sp Trans. 205 T-case 14B FF D60 (gearing unknown at this point) 87Pathy (Jeremy) has and is helping me out with a ton of info. THANKS MAN!!!!! But I thought I'd list my junk and see what kind of ideas everyone comes up with in terms of links and other cusom fab stuff that's required. I'm NOT going with leaf packs so please leave that suggestion out! I'm hoping to go full-width and flare the hell out of it to keep it semi-legal, I can't afford spring over coils, hydro steer is a probability (or at least hydro assist), I want to go disks on the rear if possible. For now I'm thinking I'll keep the stock trans. and eventually trade it for a turbo 400 and do a stock, injected 350. Let's hear your ideas!

The Pathfinder already has a link/coil rear end. Most, if not all of the platforms that might work are leaf sprung front and rear. Pathfinders benefit most from the flex that link suspension offers. Do a SAS and link the front - DON'T DO A LEAF SPRING CONVERSION!!! If you want a leaf sprung rig just forget the pathfinder all together and drive a less capable rig.

So you have a rig that has a front axle with suspension that will work AND a rear end that will work plus other stuff I can use AND some stuff I could sell for $2000.00 USD? If that's the case then we should talk. I don't have all the cash right away but I could pay you in installments and grab the gear once it's all paid up if you're interested.

Good to know. I found a 79 F-150 for $2500.00 CAD. It has a HD D60 and a HD D44 with hydraulic stering as well as 205 t-case and a 4 spd std trans without numbers to identify it. It's got a 390 that the seller is claiming 400hp from. Do you think this is worth considering? Would I be able to use the D60 also? What about the 205? I'm thinking I could sell the engine and trans. Also that guy from Texas with the swap that you don't really care for is selling his on ebay for 3800.00 CAD. What about buying it and modding it to get better angles and such? He used a D44 hp from a full-size bronco...do they totally suck?

It helps a lot. When I first planned my swap I was hoping to find a donor vehicle that would supply me with the vast majority of the parts I needed to complete my SAS. The more reaserch I do, the more I become convinced that I'm better off just collecting individual parts from several different vehicles to furnish my SAS. I thought there might be a bronco front end that I could swap right in, radius arms and all, but I guess not eh? So your front axle is wider than your rear? And this is the best set-up? I'm learning more about suspension geometry but I'm not familiar with acerman angle. How much difference in width is there? So it's an EXTENDED cab not a CREW cab for the 78/79 F-150 right? I've seen so many guys running 35"+ boots on their cherokees with stock D30s tha t I was almost considering that axle but I guess that's just silly. I want to do my SAS as gradually as possible to keep the costs down and still be able to take my rig out even on a limited basis. For instance, I'd like to keep the stock rear axle for as long as possible but I guess it would be a lot skinnier than a Ford front end. Although I have crazy backspacing on my wheels so they stick out 3" past the body as is. I'm wanting to wind up with a rig very similar to yours as gradually and cheaply as possible. It's much easier for me to come up with a little money often than a lot of money seldom. A build thread on your's would be wicked.

I'm thinking so...how much wider is full width than stock?

What are the best years of F-150's and Broncos for donor choices? Do either have a usable rear axle so that it would be worth buying a full parts vehicle? I know there's a ton of other bronco stuff I can use too so that's what I'm hoping for.

Just curious, why run a 14B in the rear when you could run a 9" and have a matching lug pattern? The 9" offers a banjo housing and far more clearance and the 9" can be built strong enough to easily handle 500 HP (I can't imagine you're planning on more juice than that). You don't get the full floater axle but that's hardly a benefit when you're running light loads anyway. The 9" is also cheaper and easier to convert to disk I believe.

I really like that new design! it would be great to keep the hitachi axle in the rear and just add another to the front! Like most of the people commenting on your site though, I'm thinking the R+P prices would have to drop a lot before it made it a better chioce than a 9" or a rear D44 though.

Just wanted to see what axles everyone is using for solid axle swaps. I know that wagoneer D44's and Bronco D44's are the most popular but I've seen swaps with F-150 D44's also. Any other options out there that don't need to be too heavilly modded? I'm also inteseted in knowing what years of the affore mentioned axles are best? Do they have to be narrowed? what about hub swaps?

What about a longer, adjustable, track bar?

Interesting thought, thanks for the advice. I'm learning a lot about simple suspension geometry as I go but man, there's a lot to it!

I'm trying to figure exactly the same thing out... I'll keep posting on it.

AND money!!!

That's too cool! seriously dedicated dude with skills.

Ya, that's basically the type of set up I'm talking about only I was thinking of going with a hydraulic set-up with a locking lever off of an atv.... When, as 87Pathy mentioned, I get a D300 T-case...one day.

Also a driveshaft park brake is WAY more reliable and solid than stock park brake set-ups. It locks all of the wheels (as long as your in 4x4) and relies on the strength of the drivetrian rather than that of the rear brakes, to hold the vehicle.

Anyone ever done a driveshaft parking brake to a WD21? You know, with a motorcycle rotor and caliper...

Drove an hour and a half to yet another junk yard today. Finally found a pair fo useable springs! They're from a '96 JGC Limited, 18.0" long and .56" thickness. I couln't find any .58" but what the hell, at least they're an upgrade. I took me less than a hour to have them installed and they gave me exactly 2" of lift. I still need to do a 2" body lift but this evens out the vehicle and gives me the potential for a bit more flex. Onward and upward from here... literally.

Went to the local JY today to check the 3 JGCs for useable coils. 2 vehicles had already been robbed of them and the third had coils that were exactly the same thickness as my stock coils (.52"). No go there. So off to the next closest JY - none at all. A third wrecker wasn't sure if he had any but if I did, he wanted $150.00 CAD for them if he pulled them or $100.00 CAD if I did it. It will be a frosty day in hell befroe I pay more than $50.00 CAD for a set of 15 year-old coils! And the search continues... if it continues much longer I'm just going to buy the damn Calimini 3" coils and call it a day!

Then I found these listings (already posted in this thread as a stand-alone list) with the description below included. This description is also posted in this thread, but not refering to the TRW CC782. Does anyone know if these measurements are accurate for the CC782??? TRW VARIABLE RATE SPRINGS Part Number: CC782 This product fits the following vehicles JEEP 1984 - 1996 CHEROKEE 1989 - 1990 GRAND WAGONEER 1986 - 1992 COMANCHE 1984 - 1990 WAGONEER 1993 - 1996 GRAND CHEROKEE The springs are just over 17" long. The wire is .54 to .55 inches in diameter OD of spring is about 5.25", ID is about 4.00"

I found some better detailed info. on the TRW CC782 coil spring. It seems, judging by the specific vehicles that this spring fits, that the TRW CC782 WILL PROVIDE NO LIFT AT ALL. As you can see all of the listed vehicles have either 4 or 6 cyl. engines - not a V8 among them! Although I haven't been able to get the actual specs. on this spring it seems clear that it's not a choice for a Pathfinder lift. Compatibility Chart Make Model Year Engine Position Notes Jeep Cherokee 1984-1986 2.5L L4 Front Front Heavy Duty Variable Rate Springs LIMITED Jeep Cherokee 1987-1988 2.5L L4 Front Front Variable Rate Springs w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Cherokee 1987-1990 2.5L L4 Front Front Heavy Duty Variable Rate Springs Jeep Cherokee 1984-1986 2.8L V6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Cherokee 1987-1988 4.0L L6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs 2WD w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Cherokee 1989-1990 4.0L L6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs 2WD w/HEAVY DUTY EXC SPORT Jeep Cherokee 1991 4.0L L6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs 2WD w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Cherokee 1992 4.0L L6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Cherokee 1992-1993 4.0L L6 Front Front Heavy Duty Variable Rate Springs Jeep Cherokee 1993 4.0L L6 Front Front Heavy Duty Variable Rate Springs Jeep Cherokee 1994-1996 4.0L L6 Front Front Heavy Duty Variable Rate Springs Jeep Comanche 1986-1988 2.5L L4 Front Front Variable Rate Springs 4WD Jeep Comanche 1986-1990 2.5L L4 Front Front Variable Rate Springs 4WD Jeep Comanche 1989-1990 4.0L L6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs 4WD COMANCHE & PIONEER Jeep Comanche 1991-1992 4.0L L6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs 4WD Jeep Grand Cherokee 1993-1996 All Front Front Variable Rate Springs 4WD Jeep Grand Wagoneer 1993 All Front Front Variable Rate Springs 4WD Jeep Wagoneer 1984-1986 2.5L L4 Front Front Heavy Duty Variable Rate Springs Jeep Wagoneer 1987 2.5L L4 Front Front Variable Rate Springs w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Wagoneer 1984-1986 2.8L V6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Wagoneer 1987 4.0L L6 Front Front Variable Rate Springs 2WD w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Wagoneer 1988 All Front Front Variable Rate Springs 2WD w/HEAVY DUTY Jeep Wagoneer 1989-1990 All Front Front Variable Rate Springs 2WD w/HEAVY DUTY EXC SPORT

Body lifts - Performance Accesories, performanceaccesories.com

I was going to cut my springs today (I don't have a torch but I do have a grinder with a brand new cutting wheel) when I discovered that one of the coils that I bought is thinner than the other - the same thickness as the stock Nissan coils! BUMMER!!! So it's off to the JY tomorrow to exchange the mismatched coils. There's no V8 JGCs at the JY and there's no more Comanchees either. I'm not interested in going with Ford coils so I'm going to bring my micrometer and tape measure and check the I-6 JGCs in case there's a set that will work. If I don't find any I'll exchange my coils fro a credit on a MAF sensor since my 'Finder fluctuates at idle and I want to eliminate that as a cause. There's another wrecker not too far away that I'll visit if need be, and again, I'll check all possible coils over for the best dimensions. ***Here's a wierd thing. My measurements indicate that my stock Nissan coils are approx. 16.5" long and 4" I.D./5.25"O.D., 8 coil springs as I expected but they are .523" thick - not .5" thick as indicated in every relevant post I can find on the subject. I'm using a good quality, reliable, manual micrometer (and yes, I know how to read it). Anyone heard of this before??? Stay tuned for breaking news!