Balmer

Buddy... The way things look "in the cab" have NOTHING to do with what's being discussed here. Look UNDER your vehicle. The transfer case front drive shaft output is on the DRIVER'S side. Therefore, any axle you put in the front for a SAS must be a DRIVER'S side drop ie. the differential housing itself must be on the driver's side of the vehicle. Your comment about the "drive shaft crossing" is right, that's what would happen if you tried to install an axle with the diff on the wrong side... which WOULD NOT WORK!!! the T-case output must match the axle, so if you install an axle with a passenger side drop you have to swap to a T-case that ALSO has a passenger side output. get it?

I hear ya man. I bend tie rods connstantly and consequently I'm going through my TSL's much quicker than I would like... not cheap. My solution - budjet SAS! Even the mildest SAS is better, by far, than our IFS as long as you don't wheel much harder than you already do and keep your tire size to 35" or less. There are upgraded steering components but ultimately SAS is the way to go. Those that are selling there "upgraded" steering suff are going to SAS. http://skagit.craigslist.org/pts/1377459354.html See for yourself.

Welcome dude! Saltspring is wicked!

Ok, so let's talk Waggy axles... What's the most desireable year/model and why? Are there different widths, hub choices, gearing, etc. depending on year? What about Grand wagoneer Vs. wagoneer - what's the difference in axles? I'm not rich so I'm looking for the best swap to leave as stock as possible. Any help is appreciated, this project is happening asap!

I would love to commit to a set, but I'm just starting my SAS so I wouldn't have $$$ till winter.

You rock! My 'Finder is off the road for SAS as of the other day when I destroyed my steering AGAIN!!! Point being, I've got lots of time to make the fix (my SAS wont be done till early spring). Thanks again man!

Thanks for all your research Indigent! This is the kind of info I was hoping for!!!

Wicked job Jeremy! You're way beyond me when it comes to wrenchin'.

It's looking like a small group for this run. There's likely to be 5 or 6 rigs, but that's cool, it will give everyone time to get to know eachother and the trails will be free moving. More are welcome if anyone wants to check out some really cool spots!

Yup. Mine's on 33's and I have NO BODY LIFT AT ALL, just JGC springs and cranked torsions. I did have to smash the sh!t out of the front of the rocker panel with a sledge hammer to stop contact though! Sheet metal is so easy to mod.

Again... I'm not trying to offend anyone who loves their E-AT option. I just want to know how to by-pass it.

I can do that without adverse effects? Is it easy to figure out what's what?

Ya, maybe one day...'til then I'll just live with it. There's no emissions testing in Hope so I'm lucky in that regard.

So what do you think the issue is? the valve itself, the solenoid or the box? Is there an inherant problem with the box - I'm assuming so since you say the JY ones are no better? Do you think that there's a way to repair it with a modded part or completely by-pass it. I'm thinking that the surging itself may be caused by the valve fluctuating between open and closed or partially open to partially closed. If this is the case could the valve not be permanently closed to prevent the condition by allowing the engine to run a bit rich at Idle?

That's the Air...something Valve right? I heard someone mention something like it a long time ago and they said it was a huge PITA to swap... or it was really pricey??? There was some roadblock to fixing the issue. '87Pathy, what has stopped you from doing the repair to your rig?

UPDATE I've had to set the dat for Sept. 19&20... I have another event to attend/volunteer at on the 27th. In case anyone's interested, I'll give that a quick plug too: The Hope Mountain Center for Outdoor Learning is putting on their annual "BC River Day Festival". It's a celebration of our rivers that includes educational insight from some local native bands, conservationists, geologists and even the Minister of Environment, a paddle up the Fraser River in traditional native canoes, a lunch by the river, gold panning (with instruction), and tons of other cool stuff. Check out The Hope Mountain Center for Outdoor Learning on line for details. Sorry to rush you Zibi, are you lifting your IFS, your body, or just doing the JGC coil swap? If I can find some time to fly out and help you with it I will, I've been forced to do pretty much all the stock suspension on my rig a couple of times now so I'm pretty familiar with the whole thing! I anticipate a start time of around noon since everyone likes to have a few beers the night before and eat several pounds of bacon before the run Jeenyus, Smithk, Skwerlb8 and others, I hope you can all make it, it's gonna be a blast! Like I said on one of the other threads, The FIBC crew that I'm friends with came up for a Harrison "back side" run in the spring and there's a few guys/gals itchin' to some more "local" trails, let's make this an awesome joint-group gathering! Hope to meet you all in a few weeks.

"I'm not a fan of that power mode, to me it shifts faster normally. When in power mode it over revs, it's no longer making power, just revving. Each to their own though" My sentiments exactly.

Hey all you Southern BC, and Northern Washington wheelers, here's an invite to run some trails near Hope, BC. There'll be a meet n' greet at my place on the Coquihalla River on Saturday afternoon with a BBQ to folow and Wheelin' Sunday. There's spare rooms and great spots to pitch a tent in my yard so no worries about a place to crash. I'm thinking Sept 19-20 or 26-27 would work best for me. I'm looking for some input on dates from you guys and any other suggestions to make this a run to remember! ***DATE HAS BEEN SET SEPTEMBER 19&20*** ****CANCELLED TO DUE BROKEN 'FINDER AND NOT A WHOLE LOT OF INTEREST - WE'LL DO IT EARLY SPRING 2010****

Ok, so rather than touching base every so often to see if our times line up, I'm going to set up a run in Hope. There's going to be folks from Fun In BC as well as NPORA. I'm starting a new thread. SEE - FRASER CANYON RUN SEPT 19 - 20 OR 26-27.

Mine doesn't go back into "auto" mode unless I manually throw the switch, it just stays in "power" mode regardless of how I drive it.

Cool man, you rock... I hope you come up with something.

I don't like it because my rig is a 90% dedicated trail rig. THE "POWER" OPTION SUCKS OFF-ROAD!!! Some may debate this but I find it too be a total PITA to have my trans shifting to an unrealisticly low gear when the power I need to smoothly get over rocks is found in the gear I'm in. I could go on and on about the situations in which this option is a disadvantage, but if you've wheeled your rig HARD in a variety of situations, I have a hard time believing that you've found the "power" option to be helpfull. I can see it on the highway and other road driving conditions but not for the kind of wheelin' I do! I love having an auto since it is way better in mud and snow as well as other terrain due to the lack of a "pause" in shifting as with a standard. In "auto" position the trans shifts just how I like it. We can debate the merrits (or lack thereof) of this system, but the fact is I DON"T WANT IT! So, again I ask... does anyone know how to by-pass this option.

Thanks for the advice guys. Since, in my opinion, the throtle CAN'T be punched too hard, is there an easy by-pass? I would be much happier without this option despite everyone's high opinion of it.

Curious thread. My 'Finder surges/pulses between 750- 950 rpm at idle once it's warmed up. I wonder if the issue could be the same despite happening at different engine speeds?

My E-AT switch keeps coming on (power position) by itself. I find this somewhat confusing. It's a rocker switch - not a momentary switch, . The switch physically stays in the "auto" position, but often when I'm starting off from a light or even a slow rolling speed, the light comes on indicating that the E-AT has switched to "power" position. The light is accurate - the trans. DOES switch into power mode - which I can't stand. Would this be caused by the switch itself or another part of the E-AT system. Can I simply wire the switch directly so that it MUST stay in the auto position? Is there another way to by-pass the "power" option on the auto trans?